Steering and Suspension

This is not uncommon and crosses most, if not all vehicle brands. If rainwater from under vehicle is allowed to splash onto drive the belt driving the hydraulic power steering pump, it can cause power steering belt slippage. Many newer vehicles are now using electric power steering pumps, which do not rob engine of horsepower, and as a byproduct, do not have any belt that can slip when wet.

A vehicle owner can verify that the drive belt is in good condition, the belt tensioner is functioning properly and that all orginal under carriage splash shields, are in place. (And SLOW DOWN in wet weather)

Most likely a bad motor mount, bad U-Joint / CV Joint - try to pay attention to make sure the transmission is 'shifting' when it happens; that will help you find the problem.

Flowers in the field

your axle is coming off

No, the power steering is a mechanical system that operates on hydraulic pressure. The hydraulic pressure is generated by the power steering pump that is attached to the front of the engine and receives it's power from the serpentine belt.

The passenger side is the hardest. you need to move the A/C receiver dryer.To do this ther are 2 two bolts holding the bracket to the fire wall remove these then loosen the srew around the receiver so it is loose. You can now lift the receiver upwards , then you will have the clearence to put a socket on the nut and loosen it. I used a air wrench no problem.

the driver side I used an ratched wrench to get the nut. the powerbrake booster is close but you can get a wrench in there. Also I found it helpfull to use a air chisel to separate the knuckel to pull the ball joint out.

you mean wobbly as it moves up and down or as in you are able to turn it left and right with out moving the wheels(that you need to move the steering wheel to keep going staright)? if is that then the problem may be a worn out worm gear in the gear box.(sloppy balls) Powerstroke57

If it just started happening I'd look at tires before replacing any expensive parts. Jack up the front-end and spin the tires and look for any separation or "bubbling" If you suspect the tires try and rotating them and retest drive. I have found lot's of front-end problems half to do with something as easy as a worn or separating tires. If not good luck

Go back and make sure all the nuts and bolts are tight and everything is seated correctly. Did you have the strut out or loosen the top nuts?

The Bridge is forward and aft steering is refered to as after steering station.

I'm working on a 97 Aerostar with the same problem. The steering wheel can be moved up and down or side to side or in circles at any time, even if the car is parked.

I think the problem is the bearing at the top of the steering column.

Scott

More than likely your tires need balanced. or you have a cord busted in a tire. Bent rim could cause it, or sometimes even just some mud caked to the back of a rim could throw it out of balance

could be bad alignment

piste

Anytime I've ever heard a humming noise when turning the steering wheel on any vehicle,It has always been due to low power steering fluid

On both front wheels, check the front and rear rubber bushings on the lower arm stabilizers where they attach to the frame. I had a 95 GA with both that of these wore out or shrank and caused the stabilizers to be looke and would clunk against the frame, mostly when braking.

using the right and proper way to turn the steering wheel

From a Silverado truck forum:

I just successfully installed the Fully functional DIC and Radio controls on my '04 crew cab. I will try to answer all questions which were raised here as briefly as possible, Ask any additional ones you may have.

First, You must get the steering wheel with controls. I believe part numbers were listed above, but bottom line, make sure you get the right color if you are ordering. The black one is called ebony. Prices vary depending on where you get them. I got mine from a salvage yard brand new for $75. Second, You must replace the clockspring with the column harness. If you have a light duty pickup, you will need part number 26101829. This is for a 2 stage air bag. If you have a heavy duty, order part number 26101828. This is for a single stage air bag. If you are unsure, take off your airbag and look to see if it has 1 or 2 pigtails connected to it. 1 is a single stage, 2 is a 2 stage. GM has reduced the number of part numbers available to simplify things. Therefore, you will get a harness equipped with an additional 8 pin connector. This is for the steering wheel speed sensor for quadrasteer. If you do not have quadrasteer, just tape it to the column and don't worry about it.

Be careful when installing the harness, there are about 14 connectors, I spent 2 hours installing the harness and wheel.

Now the part which has been the most confusing. If your truck was not equipped with rpo code (UK3) which is redundant radio controls, your body controller will not recognize or (turn on) the radio controls. In addition the instrument cluster will not recognize or turn on the DIC functionality. Therefore, your dealer will have to call the Techline Support center. This is not the same as TAC. Techline is for software, programming...etc. They need to explain what they are doing and request a 2 VCI numbers. A VCI number is a new calibration code which will allow your controllers to turn on the radio and DIC controls. They need to get a code for the IPC and one for the TBC. They will then request info from the vehicle with their Tech 2 handheld device. They then take the Tech 2 to their PC loaded with TIS2000 and perform a SPS programming function using the VCI numbers. This will load the calibration into the Tech 2. They then take the Tech 2 back to the vehicle and load the new calibration into the vehicle. They will need to go through this process twice, once for the IPC and again for the TBC using the new VCI numbers.

I personally did every part of this on my own truck today (yes, the programming also) and it does work. The Dealers do not get this request often, so probably will not know the process. Therefore, print out this message and they will then understand.

No, it will just be a little harder to turn. Once you hit 5 mph, you wont notice it that much

Not true...

If your car comes factory with power steering and it stops working, chances are your out of power steering fluid. In this case you can burn up your power steering pump causing particles of the burnt pump to enter your steering box and that would cause damage. It could just wear it out (i.e. causeing loose steering) or it could bind up (i.e. wont turn completely in one direction intermittenly. If you notice your steering getting harder to turn, I would recomend you checking your fluid and toping it off if necesary.

Sounds like its from one side? Ur shocks

check for a worn lower ball joint. use a floor jack under problem and lift from lower a rm grip the tire in the 12 and 6 o clock position and try to see if wheel moves and rocks if it does have some one look to see what part is worn check ball joint then check for loose wheel bearing if all seems tight someone could have slid into a curb and bent lower a arm also check to see if brake rotors were just changed,it could be a different size offset on rotor. sometime the ball joint stud actually oblongs the hole the ball joint go in and causes the spindle assy to wander around. this should be taken seriously and fixed right away,its no fun losing a wheel and hub assembly when your on the highway

It is not completely necessary but it would make most sense to change both. They are probably the same age, if one goes the other one might soon later.

IT DEPENDS ON WHAT KIND OF DAMAGE YOU HAVE IF THEY ARE BENT THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED IF IT IS JUST THE THREADS YOU MAYBE ABLE TO CUT NEW ONES BUT THAT IS MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH WHAT EVER YOU DO AFTERWARDS AN ALIGNMENT BY A PRO WILL BE NECESSARY AND ASK FOR A PRINT OUT OF IT BY THE WAY IF THE TIE ROD END IS WARNOUT ITS JUST WARNOUT AND NEEDS REPLACED

It is most definately dangerous.