Steering and Suspension

It is most definately dangerous.

A shaking steering wheel can indicate many things, most of which are related to the tires of the vehicle.

It could mean that a tire was not held flush to the wheel the last time it was changed, which could be corrected just by reapplying that tire correctly.

It might also indicate a tire rim is bent, which you can check by jacking up the vehicle, spinning each wheel by hand, and checking to be sure that each tire spins straight. If any sideways motion, the tire should be replaced.

If it only happens at average highway speeds or higher (not low speeds), it might indicate tires are out of balance, which is due to some having more wear than others. A professional tire rotation can be done to correct this, and tires that are too worn, leaving inadequate tread depth, should be replaced.

Another and more serious cause of a steering wheel shaking, or if the car itself seem like it's bouncing, could be a faulty tire, in which the tread piece (the portion that touches the ground) is no longer fully attached to the base or sidewalls. This should be corrected with tire replacement quickly because of the dangers of accidents and loss of vehicle control that can be caused by losing a tire tread while the vehicle is in motion.

If the steering wheel shakes only while braking, that would indicate a problem with the rotors of the vehicle, in which one of the rotors was mounted tighter than others. Correcting that problem would require professional mechanical service.

If the rate of shaking increases as the speed of the car increases, it could mean problems with other parts of the vehicle, such as need for replacement of the ball joints, tie rods, upper strut bearings, or shock absorbers.

I posted this question and thought I would give additional detail. My front wheels are wearing on the inside. The vehicle rides smooth and straight, down the road. I think the only adjustment I need to make is the "Toe". The three adjustments involved in an alignment are caster, camber, and toe in. The actual adjustment of these angles is beyond the scope of the home mechanic and must be performed at an alignment shop. The adjustments must be made in relationship with the vehicle centerline, the ball joint axis, and the ground, it is an exacting process in which expensive machines are used to determine the many factors involved in making an adjustment.

JUST HAD THI SPROBLEM FIXED BY TAKING IT TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP. I AM DRIVING A 04 GMC YUKON XL DENALI. THE "KLUCKING" NOISE COMES FROM THE INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT. IT IS APPARENTLY A WELL KNOWN SICKNESS OF GMC LIGHT AND HEAVY DUTY TRUCKS AS WELL AS SUV'S OF THE YEARS 2000 TO 2006. GMC REEFUSES TO MAKE IT A RECALL AS IT DOESN'T REALLY POSE A SAFETY HAZARD INSTEAD THEIR RECOMMENDATION UP UNTIL 2006 WAS A SIMPLE $ 20.00 LUBE KIT THAT YOUR DEALER WILL HAVE. THEY PACK GREASE INTO THE LOWER CHAMBERS OF THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT AND THE NOISE GOES AWAY..IT WILL HOWEVER RETURN AFTER ABOUT 06 MONTHS (THAT PARTICULAR PORTION OF THE SHAFT IS GETTING TO HOT WHICH CAUSES THE GREASE MELT OFF I GUESS, AT LEAST THAT'S WHAT I AM TOLD). - IN 2006 GMC INTRODUCED A NEW STEERING SHAFT THAT NO LONGER HAS TO BE LUBED OR RE-PACKED WITH GREASE - THAT'S WHAT I HAD PUT IN AND AFTER A BIT OF COMPLAINING THE DEALER ACTUALLY REPLACED IT FREE OF CHARGE AND PUT IT AS "WARRANTY" EVEN THOUGH I AM OVER.

GOOD LUCK

Autozone.com has an illustrated repair guide for the 1995-1998 Windstar on-line!

See link below under "Related Links"

Yes

Dude your front brake disks are probably warped or cracked, you'll probably need to fully replace them

that was happening on my 99 sunfire gt last year i just put red lock tight on the inside hole and let it dry for about 1 hour and they never came out since

when turning or when ridin?

the knuckle part and it has to be greased. you just need to a grease kit for it and take it to a shop if you can't do it yourself

no the Camry has a Rack-and-pinion unit that is not servicable

This Could Be Because The Belt Needs Tightening Up. Check The Tention Of The Belt. If It Doesn't Need Tightening Then Check The Powersteering Fluid. Regards Mark

check your charcoal canister, or evaporative purge system for a broken or missing vacuum line

ANSWER


Ok this is easy its a 10-25 dollar hose take your back left tire off and look at the caliper there is a black rubber brake hose bolted to it it could be on either side of the caliper but usually in the back of it that hose could be clogged up or swelled up on the inside I'm a master mechanic and usually people jump to conclusions and say o no my caliper or master cylinder is bad and 95% of the time that is not the case what happens is from the brakes being hit so much and the caliper getting hot that hose gets hot and swells up well over a long period of time the opening inside the hose closes up and gets real tiny and when you press the brakes the force from you pressing the pedal and from the brake booster lets fluid go into the caliper and activate the brake pads but the fluid cannot get back out of the caliper since there is nothing on the car to force the fluid back out of the caliper. if you replace that hose and bleed the brakes you will not have anymore locking up problems

It is possible to drive with a bad power steering pump. However, this is not a good idea because the wheel won't turn as it should.

With today's modern designs, tie rods really can last 100,000 miles easily; however, some require greasing while others do not. I change mine at about 50,000 just because it ensures my alignment stays where it needs to be and my tires get long life spans.

With that being said, if you are having someone replace them for you, do not take it to the large chain tire shops or repair shops. Take it to old fashioned specialty frame and alignment shop. It will almost always cost less and you will get a better service. I get a 4 wheel alignment every time I replace and suspension or steering parts.

In an automobile, a ball joint is a spherical bearing that connects the control arm to the steering knuckle.

Wheel may not fall off- but will point in opposite directions (one wheel pointed straight and the other taking a turn)

allowing the spring to alter it's effective length when flexing

u use duct tape

I just had similar problem with 2000 expedition. It was the bracket not the compressor. but if you don't fix bracket soon compressor will go bad too.

remove everything in order to get the arm ready to come off,remove tire, calpier assy, shock, sway bar, knock lower arm loose loose from spindle, vehicle jacked up of course, lower arm ,remove two bolts where control arm is mounted to frame, hammer and cold chicel to remove bushings, revser of it put back all you have taken loose.

There is a special tool that pushes down the horn plate then remove the "C" clip,then a wheel puller to remove the wheel.

Yes, i own one and the steering wheel locks on me sometimes on accident.