Subaru

Raise car and block car cannot be supported by suspesion for this operation therefore blocks holding car up need to be placed to let the suspenion hang freely.The axel is attached to the spindle with a roll pin at the transaxel a small punch or very stiff wire is needed to tap out the pin .Remove wheel.Revove caliper wire it up as to not be hanging by hose and to keep it out of the way.Remove the large spindle nut,you can often get lucky and use a deep well socket if not you need to rent the socket.Loosen castle for tie rod tap the spindle arm holding the the tierod with lage happer till tie rod breaks free do not beat on castle nut it will mall threads.Tie rod spreaders can also damage the boots.Use hammer on spindle arm to break free tie rod.Remove the large bolts to strut and spindle. Remove pinch bolt holding lower ball joint to strut get large bar to pry down lower suspension arm down.Remove axel and spindle out as assembly.Using a large hammer and a piece of wood beat shaft out through spindle.To assemble start new shaft through spindle start spindle nut and pull saft though remander of the way slide shaft to transaxle spindle tap pin in.Reassemble speindle to strut ect.Use extreme caution when as to not pinch fingers when guiding lower ball joint into suspenion arm. Raise car and block car cannot be supported by suspesion for this operation therefore blocks holding car up need to be placed to let the suspenion hang freely.The axel is attached to the spindle with a roll pin at the transaxel a small punch or very stiff wire is needed to tap out the pin .Remove wheel.Revove caliper wire it up as to not be hanging by hose and to keep it out of the way.Remove the large spindle nut,you can often get lucky and use a deep well socket if not you need to rent the socket.Loosen castle for tie rod tap the spindle arm holding the the tierod with lage happer till tie rod breaks free do not beat on castle nut it will mall threads.Tie rod spreaders can also damage the boots.Use hammer on spindle arm to break free tie rod.Remove the large bolts to strut and spindle. Remove pinch bolt holding lower ball joint to strut get large bar to pry down lower suspension arm down.Remove axel and spindle out as assembly.Using a large hammer and a piece of wood beat shaft out through spindle.To assemble start new shaft through spindle start spindle nut and pull saft though remander of the way slide shaft to transaxle spindle tap pin in.Reassemble speindle to strut ect.Use extreme caution when as to not pinch fingers when guiding lower ball joint into suspenion arm.

it should be between the tank and rear of the cab under the car, if not it will be in the tank. best way to find it is follow fuel lines from the tank

Maybe more information is needed to answer this question.

Does anything happen when you turn the key?

Does the motor turn over but not fire?

Does the motor kick but not run?

137-154 foot lbs

Belt Minder Deactivating/Activating Preparation Before deactivating/activating the belt minder, set the parking brake. Place gearshift in P (Park) (automatic transmission) or the neutral position (manual transmission). Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. Close all the vehicle doors. Unbuckle the driver's safety belt. Place the parklamps/headlamps switch in the OFF position. (If vehicle is equipped with Autolamps, this will not affect the procedure.) Deactivating/Activating Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. (Do not start the engine.) Wait until the safety belt warning lamp turns off (approximately one to two minutes). NOTE: Steps 3 through 5 must be completed within 60 seconds or the procedure must be repeated. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times, ending with the safety belt unbuckled. This portion of the procedure can be done before or during belt minder warning activation. Turn the parklamps/headlamps on then off. Buckle then unbuckle the safety belt three times ending with the safety belt unbuckled. After this step the safety belt warning lamp will be illuminated for three seconds. Within seven seconds of the safety belt warning lamp turning off, buckle then unbuckle the safety belt. This will enable the belt minder if disabled or disable belt minder is enabled. The following sequence of events confirm the belt minder is enabled: flashing of the safety belt warning belt lamp four times per second for three seconds three seconds with the safety belt lamp off flashing the safety belt lamp four times per second for three seconds again The safety belt lamp flashing four times per second for three seconds provides confirmation of belt minder disabled. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation procedure is complete.

Subaru is a product of Fuji Heavy Industries. The vehicle identification plate under the hood of every Subaru contains this information. I get the feeling that isn't the answer you were looking for. Care to be more specific? --Ken

Switch on top steering column was flipped . clean car recently?

You will need an adapter kit from Kennedy Engineered Products, a radiator (which I would put in the front of the car), airflow to and from the radiator (louvers?), a welder so you can make engine mounts according to the plans in the Kennedy kit, and the rest of the Subaru if this engine is fuel injected so you can recover the wiring harness and fuel injection control box...if you have lots of tools and are good at fabricating things from scratch or have lots and lots of money to hire skills you don't have, the engine will fit in the car.

Look under the dash on the driver side near the hood release lever. I have found the control box for the keyless entry system zip-tied in that area on several Subies. It will actually be labeled as such. Locate the box and trace the wiring coming out of it. There should be a fuse along the wiring. Pull that fuse out and the system is disabled.

The standard Dexron III most vehicles use.

You must be talking about a Subaru Legacy GT and a Subaru Legacy GT spec B. They are two different legacy models and the specs are on the website.

The Subaru AWD manual transmission has a viscous coupling LSD (Limited Slip Differential) which rounds power to 50% front & 50% rear.

The VTD Transmission (in high-end subarus) has a planetary type differential with a electronically controlled clutch (solenoid) that by default splits power 45:55 (front:rear).

The lower end ones have an Active AWD system which is similar less the planetary differential and a torque split of 90:10 default.

The WRX STi has DCCD (Drive Controlled Center Diff) which is changeable in terms of torque split to the drivers needs (like near RWD or lock 50:50).

In the engine compartment at the outlet of the exhaust manifold.

its not easy. there are actually two separate belts in those engines..one for each side.. and they have overhead cam shafts. its best to get a repair manual for that. because its very difficult to explain without diagrams.

Go to www.ultimatesubaru.net Everything you need to know about working on a Loyale is covered there. It will not be that difficult, but will take you several hours the first time you do it.

Get a Haynes Manual for about 10 to 20 bucks. This will walk you thru the process

maybe try taking the grill off first. you may be able to get to the latch if the grill is not tin the way. its just clipped on so you can just pull it off...Carefully though.

this is likely the solenoid that controls the egr. follow the tiny hose attached to the egr back to a small electrical solenoid. that part is best bought at a junkyard if possible because it is expensive new.

http://www.suberdave.com/USMB/95_Impreza_18l_wiring.pdf

Subaru's can be sensitive to what you use in your tranny and diff. I have had very good luck with Amsoil GL5 75w-90 or Subaru's own brand of diff oil. Of course the Amsoil is much easier to get ahold of. They are about the same price. In my 86 GL Wagon, (which I still drive daily) I was experiencing sluggish shifts and lousy cold weather operation. I changed the oil in the transmission to Amsoil GL4 75w-90 and GL5 75w-90 in the differential. Instant improvement. I have also heard that Mobile 1 is also a good choice but have never tried it.

Should be slightly in front of the rear axle, passenger side I belive. Has a cover plate underneath it, 3 ? bolts holding it.

Under rear of vehicle near rear axle.

It is in front of the right rear tire on a triangle shaped plate with three 10 mm bolts holding it on.

A wrx sti is a sport edition of the wrx the sti comes with a stock turbo and a full body kit.

{| |- | NOTE Step 1: Tighten all bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 2: Tighten all bolts to 51 ft. lbs. Step 3: Loosen all bolts, in reverse torque sequence, by 180° Step 4: Loosen all bolts, in reverse torque sequence again by 180° Step 5: Tighten bolts #1 and #2, in the torque sequence, to25 ft. lbs. Step 6: Tighten bolts #3,4,5 and #6, in the torque sequence, 11 ft. lbs. Step 7: Tighten all bolts, in torque sequence, by 80-90° Step 8: Tighten all bolts, in torque sequence, again by 80-90° |}

Lafayette, Indiana. It's headquarters are in Japan, but they are manufactured here in the United States.