Timing and Firing Orders

if you pick up a haynes manual it has the firing order and wiring order. anyway if you look on your distributor cap all the numbers have either an E or an I its for intake side and exaust side if your looking at the engine from the front its just 1234 on both sides 1E to the first plug on the right and 1 I to the first plug on the left and so on

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (I just had to ask someone myself)

Click the link.

1 - 3 - 4 - 2

The distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE

The firing order is: 1-4-2-5-3-6

The coil pack/ spark plug firing order on a 4.0 L OHV - (is 1-4-2-5-3-6) On the coil pack the row of three, nearest the passenger side fender is numbered 1 ,2, 3 from front to back (nearest firewall) and On the coil pack the row of three, nearest the driver's side fender is numbered 5 , 6 , 4 from front to back ( nearest firewall) According to my Haynes repair manual -------- The coil pack / spark plug firing order on a 4.0 L SOHC - (is 1-4-2-5-3-6) On the coil pack the row of three, nearest the passenger side fender is numbered 4 , 6 , 5 from front to back (nearest firewall) and On the coil pack the row of three, nearest the driver's side fender is numbered 3 , 2 , 1 from front to back ( nearest firewall ) According to my Haynes repair manual ------------------------------------------------------------------ I was answering a Ford Explorer question on the Explorer Q & A , how did my answer get in the Mercury Marquis Q & A ?

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

All Chevy's are pretty much the same timing wise.

Check your coil and electrical to be sure and catch any future problems. Give the fuses a once over. Rotor should turn with crank. Should have twelve volts on the live from the coil when the key is on, and during crank. Negative coil wire should flash with crank, if it is on or off all the time module is bad. Check for spark at plug boot. Ok all that is good time to set cold timing. (I unhook the advance and plug it if not for anything other than to get the hose out of my way)

Take out #1 plug, firing order is 18436572, clockwise. Put your thumb over the plug hole and bump over, or manually crank the engine until air pushed out against your finger. That is the compression stroke. Crank until your timing tab is lined up with the timing mark, at 0. (if you have on the block if not you should mark the tdc) Either way if you have a timing tab or not, insert a soft wire, or dowel into the plug hole so it rests on the piston. As the piston comes up when you crank it the rod will push out, when it hits top that is top dead center for your #1 cylinder. This should line up with 0 on your timing tab (not always sometimes the timing it set after, or someone take the tab off, it is just a piece of marked metal usually above the "big pulley" below your fan.)

So double check with the dowel or wire that #1 is really truly on Top Dead Center.

Hopefully it matched the tab, makes futures timing much easier.

Take the cap off the dizzy. See where the rotor is pointing. The metal piece that sticks up and touches the towers should pointing to the #1 cyl tower on the cap. Now mark this on the dizzy, place the cap back on so a tower is lined up with the rotor. (Mark this! so #1 is right under #1, mark the cap, and dizzy) This is your new #1 tower. Take a wire and put it on this tower run to your #1 plug.

Plugs are; driver's side from front of the car 1-3-5-7. passenger from front to back 2-4-6-8, order from plug one on the dizzy is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, so take wire one from tower one to plug one, then go around clockwise, tower 8, wire 8 to plug 8, and so one with tower 4, 3, 5 ect . . .

It doesn't matter which tower is #1, as long as it goes to #1 cyl at TDC. Normally it is one of the front two, usually the one pointing toward the driver side, on newer HEI dizzy's it was the one pointing toward the passenger side, but when you set this your self it doesn't matter.

This is on cold timing now. If the carb is dry prime it through the "over flow" or breather tube in the carb to get some gas in the fuel bowl. Give it a turn, and see what you get.

The motor should run, maybe not the best, because the advance is still un hooked. Hook it back up and see if this changes your improvement. Just sitting it should be fine.

The next timing adjust ment is the biggest pain for me. (You don't need a timing light but it helps) For most small blocks to have peak performance you need to adjust the timing to fire before top dead center. This setting depends on the engine, but a good rule of thumb is it will fall into 6-10 degrees before TDC.

The easy way to do this (if you have a good ear this will be a breeze) take the distributor, loosen the bolt, hold it in place and start the car (warm it up shut it off loosen the bolt) so holding it in place, start the car. Now the rotor turns clockwise, slightly very slightly turn the dizzy counter clockwise (the way you would turn a nut to loosen it) just turn it a hair. a full circle is 360, half is 180, a quarter is 45, so 6-10 is just a slight turn. Use your mark on the cap and dizzy as a reference.

Ok turn it until the engine sounds good. If you don't have an ear for this, then you need a timing light. Take the light hook it up and follow the directions. The light is used to tell you when #1 is sparking by flashing. The flash should be shining on the timing tab to you can read the #'s on it. you adjust the dizzy until if flashes when your timing tab is 6-10, instead of 0.

Also hook up a tach so you can get the RPMs. Each engines are different but a idle in park of 600-800 on a warm engine is usually decent, depending on the motor/performance parts. Again a good ear will help this. Adjust the timing and carb to get the rpm's correct for your engine. Carb is a whole other beast, and there are too many to give a good guide here. But there is a fast idle screw, this should be #1 suspect if it ran fine before and timing is on. Get or find a guide to your carb and adjust accordingly if needed.

After this is set, it is all just tuning, which never ends.

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2

firing order i got from a ford dealership is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8..hope this helps

18436572

Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Rotor turns counterclockwise. Do not know the timing specs but I would try 8 degrees BTDC.

The firing order is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 )

The engine cylinders / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front

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The coil pack towers are numbered :

coil---3---4

pack--2---6

plug---1---5

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

it pays 8 hours labor. so depending on the shops labor rate should be a little under $800.00. call ford on timing chain and all gears and a gasket set

The firing order should be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

When you here a rattling noise from the engine at idle.

On the SOHC (non-gsi), it's on the middle part of the crank pulley, the ridge that is in between the steering and alternator belts. You will not be able to see it. It is a tiny nick that you can just barely feel with your finger nail. I have no idea why they did not make it more visible at the factory. Once you find it, put some white out on your finger and reach down there and dab it. Don't do what I did and spill a whole bottle down the side of the motor.

The firing order should be 1-2-3-4-5-6.

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

The firing order for the small block Chrysler engines of this era is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.

Engines of v-8 design under 360 cubic inch displacement (5.9 litre) are small block design.

Most factory intake manifolds have the firing order cast into the manifold

Maybe the timing belt broke.

Holden 308