Toyota Previa

the previa holds 6.1 quarts of oil

busted oil pressure sensor or oil level is already low - add more engine oil. try to fix the leak if the oil drips on a fast rate.

Takes pro tools not for diy mechanics. I hate mine as well, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CONNECT THE HOT WIRES THAT GO TO THE STARTER AND IGNITION DIRECT, AND PULL OUT THE FUSES TO THE ALARM THAT SHOULD CANCELL THE ALARM..I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM..

Go to Autozone.com for instructions to remove the instrument cluster. 1.) Remove 6 screws holding the lower center console cover ( 2 screws are hidden holding the ash tray assembly). 2.) Remove 4 screws holding the center console fascia. 3.) Remove 2 screws holding the instrument cluster shield and slide the instrument shield off. 4.) Remove the 4 screws holding the instrument cluster down. The flasher is bolted onto the firewall in the upper right corner under the instrument cluster ( 12mm bolt). Replace the flasher with a genuine Toyota flasher unit ($$$$). The cheap replacements available at the auto parts store do not work even though the pin configuration is the same. It should take about 1/2 hour ( you will need a 90 degree offset phillps screwdriver to get to two of the hidden screws).

12mm not 13mm as previously stated is required to remove the bolt. When removing the bolt, be careful with the ratchet handle against the windscreen.

The process is the same for all engines although the older they are the easier it is to set without the complications of the computer. At any rate the process is fairly simple; 1. Manually turn the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) there should be a notch or marking on your timing cam. 2. Noting the proper firing order, align the distributor rotor with the first spark plug position. 3. If the wires on your distributor are set in the proper order, all you should have to do know is time the engine as would normally either by vaccum gauge or timing light. Good luck.

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Try another fuse if that blows you either have a short in the wiring or a blower motor that's going bad will blow fuses from the drag, odds are its the motor.

lift the seat (driver) open the cover if it is a pm put 3 qts and start engine check level and add as needed

It is under the front hood, at the bottom of the cabin air intake plenum. You can't see it without removing a cover at the bottom of the intake, air management plenum. To replace it, you have to remove the the fresh air intake, the power steering resevoir, the antifreeze resevior,the recirculating air intake cable. It is necessatuy to also unbolt the air management housing from the firewall. The blower motor is upside down coming in from the bottom under the cover that was mentioned earlier. The speed resistor block is also under that cover. The power wires run through the intake feeding in from behind the fuse compartment in the top center dash compartment in the cabin. It is difficult yo disconnect the wires at the junctyion but it can be done. Reconection is easier. It took me a three hours to replace the speed resistor block which is located in the same area as the blower. A $30 part. I had a dealership replace the blower motor a year ealier for $438. (the motor cost $125) My parents owned the Previa at that time. I inherited it and found that the blower only worked on extreme low and extreme high speeds. That's when I went in myself to swap the resistor. I still don't know why the dealership didn't do it when they swapped out the blower.

There are 4 listed in the Toyota Handbook, all for 'theft deterrent system' in main fuse box (large lid in centre of dash). First try 2nd row up, 5th from left (Dome fuse). Also 2nd row up, 2nd from right. Also bottom row, 2nd from right. Lastly, 2nd from top on right hand side.

Would have been built for R12, can be converted to R134a.

On the 1992 model (same?) there is a tiny hole in the clear plastic front of the instrument panel, beyond that hole is a small button. Get a long 'pointy' thing and press that buton, the light should go off.

you will need a new thermostat to cure this problem. ian

The rear part of the saad shaft is attached to a cast iron cup-looking thing. The cup has a notch or mark on it. Below it are the numbers 0, 5, and 10. Line the notch with the zero by turning the shaft. And the shaft only turns one way. 5 and 10 are advanced, and zero should be adequate.

it is under the steering wheels by the front left speaker, close to the brake pedal

I have a '74, and I'm doing some work on the sliding door. I removed 5 philip-head screws. The assembly facing the interior has 3: one each for the handles, and onel for the assembly. Then, facing the jam, there's another 2. The middle screw of the 3-screw configuration is the one for the chrome handle.

Drop the fuel tank. There it is, bolted on top, nested inside. Unfortunately, at least on a 91, there's no other way to get to it. I learned this in the desert where I drove into a snow drift which concealed a large rock. 40 miles from the nearest paved road, that rock punched the tank in just enough to drive the wall of the tank into the pump, breaking the plastic nipple to which the fuel line is connected off the pump. Pretty straight forward, but awkward.

Early Previas, prior to 1994, were notorious for overheating the heater switch and melting the plastic casing. Once melted, the plastic would interfere with the switch lever movement and would glue itself in the last positon set. Forcing the switch, may restore some of the blower speed positions, but usually just open circuits and must be replaced for a very high cost of labor.

there is a small rubber plug in the clear face of the guages. remove it. through the hole you'll see a little button. turn the key on, take a pencil and slide it through the hole, and press the button in until the light goes out.

Just inside the trunk (at the center) is a bolt that lowers the spare tire rack. It is probably covered up by a small flap in the carpet. Use the tire lug wrench to lower the spare tire.

if its the hub it self then its a axle change.

Look in the fuse panel, which is under the center dome cover of the dashboard. The small latch release for the cover is just underneath the front of the cover. You must press hard for it to release, then the cover will slide off. On the bottom of the cover is a diagram showing the fuses and what they control.

NOTE: replacing the whole axle is a heck of a lot easier and cleaner! Not a lot more expensive, either. Most garages do it this way, as labor is more costly than the parts. Around $100 more than buying just the outer joints, but I wish I'd spent that extra money!

tools - impact gun, breaker bar, BIG socket for center nut, hammer, the usual sockets + wrenches..

1. Remove the axle - there are 6 small bolts (9/16) holding it on the inside, the one large center nut in the middle of the hub on the outside. This one will be very hard to do, you will need a large bar, and loosen it BEFORE you jack up the car. If the car is already up, you can have someone step on the brakes.

2. Remove the 2 big (7/8) bolts attaching the strut and one end of the sway bar connector. It is possible, with some finagling to get the axle out without removing the brakes

3. Remove the old CV joint - this is the part that I got stuck on. Brought it to the garage, and he had it off in a trice, nothing more than a hammer and a vise. Here's the trick! Put the axle in a vise at about a 45' angle, outer end down, with end of outer shaft straight down, this will expose the inner race. Give the inner race a good whack on the exposed edge. The key is where you hit it, not how hard. Before my mechanic showed me this I was whaling on it with a 15lb sledge, and he popped it with a small ball peen hammer in two whacks. What you're trying to do is break the snap ring inside, and the whole thing slides right off the axle.

4. Put the new snap ring on the axle, pop on the new joint, grease it up, (use CV grease, follow directions!) get it back in there, and you're in business! No more nasty clunking grinding scary noises!

good luck!

on the drivers side you remove the kick panel if i remember right and the three nuts on the top plate can be gotten with various wrenches. the passenger side is accesed through the glovebox. theres an access panel inside that's a little difficult to identify but now you know what youre looking for. the bottom section is the same as any other car, just be careful of the abs wires.

unless you can avoid being pulled over for a loud exhaust system, and if you can find a way to pass the emissions test on your vehicle inspection, then its mandatory to have a cat. Unless the vehicle was originally manufactured without one, then you will be on a list of exceptions as an exempt vehicle.