Toyota Trucks and SUVs

116

The first thing to check is the bulbs,if one is burned out the blinker won't light up on the dash(most cars).If it lights up but does not blink it is usually a flasher unit.The flasher unit is located on the fuse panel of most cars under the dash.The flasher is round about the size of a half-dollar coin.It just pulls out from the panel.Hope it helps...JD

Disconnect - battery terminal Raise and support vehicle if necessary Disconnect wiring harness from starter Remove mounting bolts Remove starter

I'm sure there are a few different answers, to your question, depending on that persons point of view. Some might say, "Why" while others might say, "Why Not" So it depends on your point of view. I have always applied a simple statement, to things like your question, and you will find out, that it pretty much, "cuts to the chase" The statement: "IS THE JUICE, WORTH THE SQUEEZE" It looks like your only commonality here, is Toyota. If your in a state, that has any kind of advanced emissions testing required for registration, you might run into a problem with them, as they are not big fans of "modified vehicles" meaning anything that was not installed at the factory. If you have a wheel barrow full of cash, and no home for it, this sounds like the project to dump it into. This reminds me of a question we had in engineering class, "Can A Brick Fly" The answer is "Yes" "If you put a big enough motor on it" So, "yes" you can put an 89 22r motor in a 86 turbo 4 runner, if you have enough money, and experience with cars in general, with some fabrication experience thrown in for good measure. Don't forget to have a few friends over when your doing this, that way you'll have a few different ideas on how to do it, and to make it enjoyable, have a lot of beer on hand, that way you have an excuse the next day, when someone says, "WHAT HAPPENED"

for a 2005 Toyota 4Runner.

tools needed: #10 socket, mini needle nose plier.

1. open auxiliary box. you should see a #10 bolt on top left side. remove.

2. grab plastics edges on both ends under a/c control knobs. pull face plate

outward slowly until the tabs release.

3. left face plate outward until top two tabs release. careful of wire harness

connected to multi-information diplay unit (MIDU).

4. turn MIDU around so you are looking at the back. the two bulbs are located

on the top half - you will need a mini needle nose plier to release the bulb by

turning to the left and then lifting out.

the bulb costs $4.53 at Toyota Parts Department (Servco Hawaii). i heard it costs

approximately $155.00+ to have Toyota replace this part.

You don't jump any terminals. I'm assuming your talking about using the DLC. Hook a timing light to the number one spark plug wire and loosen the clamp bolt on the distributor a little. Timing should be a 36-38 degrees BTD.

Where id the fuel injector relay located on a 1992 toyota camery 4 cylender

The 1994 Toyota pickup heater relay location can be found in the fuse block number 3. The fuse block is located above the glove box and can be seen when the glove box is removed.

I just replaced the headlights on my 1989 truck and to do that you have to loosen the bumper, and remove the grill and the marker lights (great fun). I got stumped a little at the marker lights. After you remove the screws, they pull straight out perpendicular to the vehicle. So imagine you are in the driver's seat: the right marker light pulls straight out to the right, and the left goes straight out to the left. There are two little pins on the marker light assembly that go into corresponding holes on the sides of the front grill. There are plastic doohickies (technical term of course) that make those fit snuggly in the holes. I used a small screwdriver slipped in between the front grill and the marker light assembly to carefully leverage the marker lights straight out. The plastic things can become brittle so be careful to pull straight out and avoid breaking them.

Good luck.

-RM

It sucks you had to go through all that, to repalce your headlights, I removed the turn signals, popped the top row of clips, removed the top screws in the headlight brackets and CAREFULLY bent the light brackets and the side of the grill I was working on, if you're careful, it works fine and saves a ton of hassles, if you're not careful, you'll replace your grill at no cheap cost, I did both sides rather then just the blown light....

~ 6 feet

I just had this problem with my 05 Highlander. $200 later (towing, labor and a $2 part) Turns out it was just a blown fuse. The ETCS 10amp to be exact. I'm not saying this is the reason you're having this problem... I'm just saying check it yourself before you spend the money to have someone else check it for you. Good Luck!

no.

all matter cant be seen. like air is a matter but we cant see it.

2100

the book says to remove the head bolts gradually. In 2 or three increments and a certain order to prevent damage to aluminum head.

the proper torque sequence follows... looking from the driers side...

Passenger side- 10 4 2 5 7

Drivers side - 8 6 1 3 9 ( rear of engine)

I believe the propper torque is listed as 36-46 Ft-lbs

will a broken drive belt damage the motor of a 2006 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder truck

look at your speedometer feel up under the hang over there are twwo screws remove them. now look along the bottom edge under the steering wheel, there may be a 10 mill bolt on the far left and a series of screws that go over to under the radio remove all and pull the plastic peice down and out it will unsnap go back to the first section you unscewed. grab the top of the dash and pull towards you it should unsnap. then look for other bolts and screws holding the part you want to remove . its not nearly as hard as it looks. it all comes apart in sections. good luck

You can find that in the haynes manual at auto zone.Its kinda hard to find but have patience you will find it.

I did this myself. Your transmission will bolt right up to your motor, but because your overall length of your transmission will be longer, you will have to get your rear driveshaft shortened and front one lenghtened (providing it's a 4X4) then have them both high speed balanced. This can be done relatively cheaply ($100 - 150) at a shop that specializes in drive shafts.

I recommend checking all U-joints and changing them if necessary. Before getting driveshafts cut, call your shop to find out tolerances need for play when flexing your drive train, i.e. going over rough terrain, accelerating, etc. Your shop will tell you what to measure.

Then just bolt them on and your ready to go. It made a huge difference in my 22R pickup in mileage and RPM when hwy travelling.

10w30

Hi,

Has a clutch in it and it is not supposed to because it disengages in reverse.

Peace,

crigby

maybe junk yards i have the same problem

Sounds like you need to have the throttle body linkage assembly cleaned and adjusted. The only other way to do this is to disable the choke linkage assy. but I do not recommend that, especially if you live in a part of the country that gets really cold.

Trying asking a 4X4 shop

also define Big Lift