VW Polo

1.4liter polo Playa 2002

I had this problem until I had the timing corrected. It is a very cheap and easy thing to do but best to get a proper service centre to do it. If the timing is slightly out the car will backfire and be sluggish when going up hills and acelerating.

its worth checking in boot area in case feed to rear washers has become disconnected as happened with mine last year. the boot was flooded and stank of stale water which collected in various places !!!! the feed runs along the passenger side of the car in the boot and under the rear seats if you tip them forward. check for any signs of damp .

If the vehicle shakes only when driving during rain, then check your tires and alignment. Worn tire tread causes your care to skate on the water on the road, known as hydroplaning. Wrong alignment can show the same symptoms.

most likely a valve is not seated,burned or 'missing'.. i.e 'dropped valve' this swopuld have made an obvious noise when it happened! if any of these are happening, the piston chamber will not seal... hence no compression.. another possibility is a hole in the piston itself ...

I just changed my front break pads and they cost me around fifty dollars. I think that the rotors run about sixty-five or seventy a piece if those need to be changed as well. Almost every brake shop will charge you over $700 to change everything, so it is definitely worth a little bit of trouble yourself.

you put the lime in the coconut and shake it all up

Do not do this during an electrical storm.

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Wait 10 minutes.

Remove the bolts holding the airbag bodule/horn pad to the steering wheel (from the back.)

Hold the airbag module with one hand, then with the other hand unplug the horn wire and airbag wire.

Move the airbag module away from the car. Set it down someplace out of the way and face up where other people won't go near it.

Remove the nut and circlip at the center of the steering wheel.

Use a steering wheel puller or two-bolt puller to pull the stering wheel off the column.

The drivers manual has all that info in it.

Hi, I had the same problem so here goes on an answer. I started by removing the water expansion tank. To do this you need to remove the wiring plastic covers( 2number) from either side of the bottle then remove screws. Lift up the tank, as it has a plastic bit that fits into the car body. This allows you access to the black plastic cover for the bulb. Twist the bulb slowly and it should come loose. Take off the electrical connection and replace. remember to look at the way the bulb came out. Refit opposite to the above. Hope this helps as it worked for me. I am not a mechanic, just someone who can't believe how difficult VW has made changing bulbs. I am also someone who doesn't want to pay vw for simple routine maintenance. Hope it works for everyone else. Stuart

take it to a brake shop. breaks are life or death in a car. if your too unexperienced to change them yourself take it in. its not worth loosing your life over 150 bucks.

I always ran my Volkswagen diesel in the winter one gallon of petrol to a tank of fuel. At this time diesel was not being made with anti freeze additive so lorries and early cars on diesel would fuel freeze in severe weather. I had two cars and both ran for 100,000 giving me no engine problems so a small amount will not bother a tank full of diesel or the engine

I would try a junk yard. Often you can look for your make and model and they will charge you a nominal cost. try www.ebay.com

Depending on the year, the MLPS or trans range sensor is out of adjustment. If you have driven like this for very long, you have probably done a good bit of damage to the trans already and should start saving around $1500 for a rebuild.

Take the wheel off, and remove the caliper bolt on the bottom, from the inside. Lift up the caliper, and the pads should come out. Do your self a favor, and buy Toyota pads, and a shim kit. The kit still comes with anti-seize lube for the top spindle the caliper rides on. You may not need everything in the kit, but you will be glad to have extra parts, in the event you lose something in the process. And, don't forget to put in the horse shoe shaped wire spring clips that straddle the air holes in the rotors. This will keep the pads away from the rotors when you are just driving. If you buy after market pads, they will hang up, stick, and prematurely wear out the rotors, too. They are just not metalurgically compatible when you factor in the break dust, heat, and friction.

On what model of car? On some Accords, you shouldn't need to remove too many things. You normally have to remove the ash tray. Also, there are a couple of screws that you have to reach from the back side from under the dash that you will need a socket wrench, an exension, and a universal joint adaptor to get to.

Buy the Chiltons or Haynes manual. It will walk you through the process.

Yes ... the last year for the squared off look of this model. I have this model, with the 1.8 turbo and get 29 mph quite consistently city/highway combined. 34 mpg on the open road.

This would be right behind where you put the oil in. It is a good idea to get this replaced often for he best working of the vehicle.