Chevrolet

this info is only accurate for 88-94 4.3 v6 engines. otherwise, check a repair manual.

disconnect the battery and coil pack (for safety...really, do it), chock the wheels, and put the transmission in neutral.

pull the valve covers. there will be other stuff to remove before you can get the valve covers off. have plenty of shop rags in place at the bottom of each valve cover to catch the oil that will leak out (maybe 1/3 a quart under each cover).

inspect the rocker arm studs first thing. Chevrolet used pressed in rocker arm studs, which can rise out of the stud boss holes. if you had what sounded like excessive rocker arm/lifter noise, there's a good chance that a stud or two has risen. if any of the rocker arms are loose enough to shake freely, it's very likely that a rocker arm stud is on it's way out. take a good look at the overall height of each stud in comparison to the others. a pulled stud will be fairly obvious. if this is the case, see the marked section below on installing screw-in replacement studs before proceeding. *

get the engine at top dead center for piston one. first, note the position of the number one spark plug wire on the distributor cap and lay the cap aside, wires still attached if possible. align the timing mark on the crank damper to 0 by rotating the engine clockwise using the longest ratchet wrench you have or a breaker bar. if you can't see the marks on the toothed timing marker, clean it up with a wire brush first. when your damper timing mark (there could be two marks on the damper. if so, use the furthest right mark) is at 0, take a look at the distributor rotor position. if it's pointing in the general direction of spark plug wire one, the engine is on the compression stroke. if it's pointing the opposite direction, it's on the exhaust stroke. the rotor probably won't point exactly toward the number one position, which is fine.

adjust lash. back off the rocker arm stud nut a full turn. rotate the pushrud between your fingers as you (very slowly) tighten the nut. the pushrod will first turn very freely, but eventually you'll feel a slight drag. if you're unsure, do it again and wiggle the rocker arm a bit as you go. when you're satisfied, tighten the nut an additional 3/4 of a turn. an easy way to do this is to mark your socket with a permanent marker for a visual reference (it will wipe off easily).

if you're at tdc on the compression stroke, adjust lash on these valves:

1 intake

1 exhaust

2 intake

3 intake

5 exhaust

6 exhaust

if you're at tdc on the exhaust stroke, adjust lash on these valves:

2 exhaust

3 exhaust

4 intake

4 exhaust

5 intake

6 intake

to identify the exhaust valves, look at the exhaust manifolds. the exhaust ports will be directly under the exhaust valves.

the cylinder order when standing at the front of the vehicle is like this:

firewall

6 5

4 3

2 1

front of engine

the distributor cap plug wire order is like this:

firewall

1 2 3 4 5 6 (counter-clockwise)

front of engine

install the valve covers, replacing gaskets if necessary. remember to pour plenty of fresh oil over your rocker arms and pushrods so that they aren't running dry at startup.

* you can either pull the head(s) and have all new replacement screw in studs installed at a machine shop (around $100-125 for a set of v6 heads + cost of gasket set + time of pulling heads)......or......diy, replacing only the pulled studs, which isn't the easiest task to do, but is definitely easier and cheaper. if you diy, you'll be pulling the raised studs out, and tapping those stud boss holes for screw-in studs. a few different companies make a tool called a rocker arm stud remover / tap alignment tool. there are a few problems here though. first, the tool might not be aligned to your rocker arm stud holes (i tried the summit brand and it was off). how ironic is that?....tap alignment tool huh? you can check this by trying to place the tool over two adjacent rocker arm studs (intake and exhaust for one cylinder). if it doesn't slip on over both studs, it won't work as is. if your tool isn't aligned, the solution is to modify it. you'll want to notch out the unthreaded hole of the tool so that it looks like a 'U' from top to bottom rather than an 'O'. this will allow you to adjust the distance between the rocker arm studs for correct tap alignment. you can do this with a hacksaw and file if you're a handy person (which i did). a bandsaw would be much easier. after that, the tool is straight forward to use. another problem is having enough room to turn a tapping wrench (t handle). if the raised stud is on the backside of the head, you might run into the firewall. otherwise, you might have to remove some accessories to have room for turning the tap wrench. the last problem is dealing with chips from tapping. you don't want any metal chips in your engine. you can cover the top side of the head in plastic and poke holes to get to the rocker arm stud boss holes. use a thick grease when tapping to catch chips in the hole, which will get stuck in the grease in the tap flutes. definitely do tap by hand (no drills) and go slow, cutting only a couple of threads at a time, before backing the tap out to clean off the chips. what you'll need to complete this diy job: stud remover / alignment tool modified (around $20 plus sweat), screw in 3/8" studs for a Chevrolet v8/v6 (nut end is 3/8" diameter, boss end is 7/16" diameter....check eBay, $25 for a two head set), tap wrench and 7/16"-14 tap (a whole sae tap set is fairly cheap, $15-20, harbor freight, ace hardware), thick grease (a few bucks), plastic (bag or otherwise). to tap a stud boss hole, first pull the raised stud using the tool. bolt down your alignment tool to the adjacent rocker arm stud. insert the tool's pin in the tool / empty boss hole. tighten the stud nut just enough to keep the tool from moving around. you don't want to accidentally pull a non-raised stud, so take it easy. remove the pin making sure that the tool hasn't moved. apply grease to your tap and start slowly into the tool. the tool is partially threaded and some chips will come from running the tap through the tool (don't worry about it). continue on into the stud boss (remember only a couple of threads at a time). when you eventually feel the tap turning freely, you're done tapping. insert your screw-in stud and tighten it down using double nuts and a wrench or two (two rocker arm stud nuts will work). the stud is tight enough when you can remove the nuts without also backing out the stud that you just installed. put your rocker arms back on and adjust lash as instructed above.

don't listen to internet naysayers about the possibility of installing cock eyed rocker arm studs when diy'ing. i did this myself and alignment was perfect. follow these directions and you'll be fine. just remember to go slow, and clean those chips out often. btw, i don't think it is even possible to install screw-in studs crooked in the existing stud boss holes. once the tap cuts the first threads, the tap can only follow the hole. if tapping was started crooked, the tap could get in a bind and stop cutting or possibly break, but not cut misaligned threads all the way down the stud boss hole.

p.s. - summit should be ashamed for selling a defective tool, repeatedly (search some forums for complaints). try the proform or comp cams brand but don't cross out the possibility of needing to modify the tool if it isn't properly spec'ed. if i had time to order another tool, i wouldn't have modified the summit brand tool.

p.s. 2 - using a rocker arm stud 'pinning kit', as suggested by a local parts house sounds like bad advice to me. attempting this with the heads in the vehicle, i predict a broken drill bit in a stud boss. think about it - tiny drill bit, hand held drill, drilling through steel in an awkward position....I'll pass. with the heads out of the vehicle, screw-in studs would be just as easy or easier and would give me more peace of mind.

i hope this info helps someone out.

travis

Just as the name implies the 168 tooth flywheel has 168 tooth ring gear and the 153 tooth flywheel has 153 teeth on it's ring gear. In the "old days" of high performance the manual 4 speed transmissions allowed a larger diameter 11" clutch to be used with the higher performance engines with the larger 168 tooth wheel. In addition to this the larger diamater flywheel gives the starter better mechanical advantage to turn over high compression engines because of the greater number of teeth on the larger ring gears. Chevy uses a number of different starter noses on their starters. This is the aluminum piece that the bendix gear is in at the "business end" of the starter. This nose is the piece that mounts the starter to the block. This nose is the part of the starter that moves the starter motor in closer to the flywheel on the 153 tooth and farther out away from the flywheel on the 168 tooth wheels. I believe the starter motors are mostly the same except for the HD starters which have a longer stator and rotor for the high compression engines of "the old days". These longer starters allowed the starter motors to develop more torque to turn the higher compression engines over to start them.

No it does not, GM. did not start using roller cams until 1996.

turn signal switch needs replaced!

Get under the vehicle with a flashlight and locate where the starter is positioned...After you find it, locate the two bolts that hold it onto the bottom of the engine...Then loosen the two bolts and once they are loose, use one hand to hold the starter from falling on you (it is heavy) and the other hand to completely remove the bolts...the two bolts are very long and threaded...The next thing you have to do is remove the battery cable from the starter housing and you will need a small wrench to break the little bolt from the starter silonoid...be sure to wear safety glasses and protect your hands from grease using gloves or an old towel..to install your new starter just repeat these steps backwards...It is easy and a great learning experience and if you are having trouble or problems with replacing the starter then just take a break and come back to it when your recomposed

Check the brake switch located on your brake pedal shaft. May have to be replaced.

That requires the use of a power steering pulley PULLER. ( A special tool ) The pulley is pressed on.

Well it maybe that the battery is to small for the truck or the alternator is bad

Begin by removing the hose from your power steering cylinder. Remove the power steering cylinder retaining bolts. The power steering cylinder will come off.

depends on the year, my 2000 Z71 has 285 fly horsepower and 315 fly torque i believe the hp in the 07's are up to 315 now. With an CAI and duals with an Xpipe i put 226 hp and 267 torque to the wheels

According to GM's current electronic parts catalog the z56 option on 1997 and up models "chassis package, police conversion, police package "

More than likely 4.5 qts. with a filter change. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in 4 qts. of oil and start the engine. Let run for 45 seconds and shut down. Let it set for 45 minutes and check the oil level and add as necessary to reach the full mark. You now know the capacity.

What you have here is a part number. That motor was somewhere in the 70's, and either in a truck, or high performance, because most 010's were 4 bolt main cap, blocks. The number you need to trace the history, what is was put in originally, and which rating it had, would be on the exposed pad, in front of the drivers side cylinder head. It will begin with a letter, or maybe two. Yours will most likely begin with a TO, which was "truck only."On the bellhousing flange, just off center, to the drivers side, you will see a code. A letter, then a one, or two digit number, followed by a space, and a single digit. This is hard to see, in the vehicle. Anyway, here is the breakdown, on those numbers. The letter denotes month. A, would be Jan. B, Feb. C, March. And so on. The next 1, or two numbers, are the day of the month. The last number, is the year. That part number, would be in the 70's. This code will be under the valve covers, on the heads, as well. And means the same, as to their date of birth.

The gross weight of the 2013 Chevrolet Tahoe is 7100 lbs..

The mechanical fuel pump regulates the fuel pressure. This truck is not fuel injected. It has a carburetor.

All V8 engines have the same firing order. 1,3,5,7 is the left bank, 2,4,6,8 is the right bank and the distributor rotates clockwise. 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2

Need to know if it is a short bed or long bed, fleet side or step side and if it has a V-8 or six cylinder engine and if it is standard shift or automatic transmission.

It helps if you are a contortionist to do this job. First you need to remove the retaining clip that holds the brake master cylinder actuator rod to the brake peddle lever. Then slide the actuator rod off the brake peddle lever, the brake light switch will come out with it. Disconnect the electrical plug from the switch and remove switch. Reverse order to install. Most of this procedure is done using one hand, good luck.

It could just be that the timing is to high on the engine. so you need to check the electronic timing control module, on the left side of the engine by the valve cover mounted on a bracket. It could be keeping the timing advance. I have seen this happen a lot. Need to check battery too. If the starter is old,it could very well be draging, and needs replaced.

This site should have an answer for you.

http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars

Its not your standard screw on filter.....their using 1950 technology in cars now...its and internal filter on right side of eng. black cap with hex ontop filter is inside here its also a $12 filter too...

The wiring should already be hooked up, just go into the fuse box under the hood, remove the red plastic block in the front inner corner space and install a Jcase 40 fuse in it's place.

700r4 transmissions do not have a "drain plug" so the only way to drain the fluid is to remove transmission oil pan. This pan is located on the bottom of the transmission secured by twenty or so 10mm bolts. You will need a new gasket and seven quarts of GM approved automatic transmission fluid. While you are there,you may as well replace the transmission filter as well.The filter "kit" comes with a new gasket and can be purchased for around twenty dollars at any auto parts store.

There are several things that can cause your 2000 Chevrolet to backfire and die. The most common cause is a plugged catalytic converter.