Acura Integra

Yes, it is possible to convert a manual into an automatic. I converted my automatic integra into a manual. It runs smooth as silk. To tell you the truth and not to discurage you, it would be easier to sell your manual or even trade it for somebodys automatic. There are many Integra lovers that would love to get their hands on a manual. If this is not possible here it goes. It will be even more expensive to convert to an automatic than it is to convert to a manual.Why? There are more electoronic components involved versus the manual.(sensors, shift lock, ect.) These are the parts: 1: Automatic transmission with sensors 2: torque converter and plate 3: automatic mid shaft(manual's is different) 4: shift cable 5: automatic pedal set (brake and gas) 6: automatic shifter complete with interlock switch and harness 7: automatic cluster 8: automatic ecu 9: automatic flywheel cover 10: rear transmission bracket and the lower transmission bracket( the manual ones is different ( trust me I know) You will also need the top transmission mount and the top transmission frame bracket that you can purchase at Acura for about $50. You will have to cut the manual off the frame, grind the welds down and weld the auto bracket in place. 11: You will need a wheel saw to cut away at the center console where the manual shifter is. you need to make room for the manual shifter and the shift cable 12: The center shift console needs to be changed as well. The manual one is smaller. 13: You need the auto flywheel plate bolts, the manual one are longer. 14: you need the automatic starter as well. 15: you need the automatic radiator, the manual one does not have the tranny oil cooler in it. 16: The only other thing brother is the electrical. You need to run two wires to the shift lock, the reverse wires to the auto shifter, the cruise controll to the auto shifter and you should be set and ready to cruise. Now the only thing left is for who to do the install?

Nobody knows. There were gears thousands of years ago.

Been wondering that myself for years. I was just looking under my hood for an unrelated issue and it made the noise. I can't be sure the exact source of the sound, but I believe it came from something associated with the ABS system (according to the markings on the component the sound seemed to have come from). The mystery continues...

Main relay to what? There is no "main relay". You have multiple relays for a variety of functions. There is what may be considered a main relay, it is a "circuit opening relay". It controls the function of a variety of circuits (I.E. fuel pump, ECM, starter). Goto AutoZone.com and look up your vehicle and see if their website gives you the location for this relay.

Actually there is a Main relay it is under the steering coluum it is a 10mm bolt that holds the hazard flashers and the Main relay it is a burnt brown color easy to fix best way is to take the kick panel off (the 2 Phillip screws) and a couple clips and you will a little black box and behind it there is the Main relay =)

fist and foremost, make sure you have ample daylight to do this, i learned the hard way. first you take out the speedo cable from the transmission, and feed it through the firewall, not all the way though. then you unscrew the pannels from under the steering wheel, glove box, and take out the shifter cover. there are two screws outside of the guage cluster that you have to remove. take off the a/c and a/c temp. control and there should be 3 screws, take those out. there is a screw hidden behind a tiny panel on the bottom most right part of the black dash panel, take that screw out as well. now you should be able to remove the whole black dash panel as one whole peice. unclip all of the switches from the back of the panel and remove it from your work area. there are 4 screws holding on the guage cluster that also needs to be removed. be careful pulling out the guage cluster because there are two clips or three clips depending on model that need to be removed as well. also, be careful not to pull the speedo cable off the connector, i also learned that the hard way. now you should be able to replace the cluster and just back track these steps to put it all back together

No. Besides, K series transmissions aren't nearly as good as B series transmissions.

underneath the dash, easy to see if you remove the bottom area of the dash below the steering wheel. its brown colored.

This location is likely the same for 94 and newer Integras.

In a 1994 Acura Integra, the relay was about the size of a twinkie though not as long and located slightly lower and to the left of the fuse panel which you can see by taking off the fuse access panel. It has a grey case and rust-colored wiring harness with 7 wires. A large metal tab is attached to the housing which bolts to some sheet metal. All useful marking face the firewall. Part number is likely RZ-0132.

If you are trying to locate the relay due to a problem with starting/restarting the car on hot days or when using the heater in winter and like DIY solutions try this: remove the relay from the vehicle. Carefully separate the housing from the relay guts. Grab a soldering iron and reheat all of the points on the circuit board and add a little solder if you have some on hand. In the 94 integra there was a hairline crack in the solder around one of the points. After re-melting with the iron the intermittent problem went away. They relay fires when the key is turned to "on" to prime the fuel system and clicks off when the check engine light extinguishes. By placing your hand on the installed relay, you should feel the unit click on with the key and click off when the check engine light goes off. When I was having the intermittent starting problems, the relay would not click on/off when the key was turned to "on."

Yes, that is one of hundreds of possibilities.

The shocks are a common replaceable part. They can be found or ordered at most any local auto parts or online dealer.

Yes. The 91 ls came with a b18 and that engine shares it's block with the b20. The new engine will drop in, but you will have to swap out some of the parts off of your old engine such as intake manifold, distributer, fuel rail, etc. The only modification you will need will be to extend the temp sensor wires to reach the new location by the thermostat housing as your old sensor is on the rear of the block. You can use your old motor mounts, transmission, harness, belt etc. on the new engine, and any bolt on modifications for the original engine will fit the b20 as well. The transmission bolts right up with no problems.

B18= 1.8

I had the same thing happen on my '87. It started after the windshield was replaced & something wasn't done right there that let water in at the bottom of it.

It is General Statutory Rules , Number . :)

Hope it was helpful .

Regards

Dinesh

A cam sprocket is a part which is attached to one end of a cam shaft in an engine. A cam sprocket, along with the timing belt maintain the timing between the camshaft and crankshaft, which ensures that the engine runs properly.

Replacing the timing belt isn't that hard of a job. You will have to jack up your car, and take off the driver side tire. This should expose the three belts. The timing belt should be th inner most belt. To make sure you know which belt is the timing belt, follow it and see where it goes. The belt that goes to your cam shaft(located on top of the engine covered by a black cover.) There should be a wheel that the belt goes onto. When the cams rotate, the rotate the wheel, which rotates the timing belt, which rotates the other two belts, keeping everything in time. The bottom wheel should have a bolt on it in the middle of the wheel. If you loosen that bolt, the wheel will be able to move, thus allowing you to tighten or loosen the belt(once it is on the wheel.) So you will have to take off the other belts, and then loosen the bolt on the lower wheel (the wheel that the timing belt goes around) and then remove and replace the belt. This is all from my memory, but if you just get in there you could easily do this job.

Look at the upper end of the brake pedal almost under dash

High prssure mass

It isn't a job for the backyard mechanic.

It's not easy, an when you do it get the good stuff. Try to lighten you own fly wheel, " It can be done on a brake lath" get a new [pressure plate, release bearing an throw out bearing, an clutch plate. Excdy makes a dandy clutch . or a oem relpacement but the stage 1 or 2 is worth the money. ... it's not hard or easy, it just takes time. Car must be on a ramp or on blocks up high. You have to take out the drive axle on the power side, brakes lower ball joint. an at least the tran case if not whole tran.

fun fun fun..

No there is not a Chip in 90 Integra. I have a 91 intergra and made copies at Home Depot

When you drive with a bad fuel injector, your engine will often misfire. You might also have a rough idle and increased fuel consumption.

Sounds more like a run on, if this is after you shut off the car. Could just be some carbons, i'd clean out the carb/manifold with some spray cleaner or just pick up some fuel cleaner.

PR3-3 or PR3-4 = Integra Type R head code.

http://www.Google.com/images?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&saf

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A type in this web address exactly and youll get the diagram ok

yes