Air Compressors

of course you can

Are you stuck ? How ?

Not evacuated totally or properly prior to charging? Not charged properly - too much freon Oil not added when charged? Defective compressors?

Not a good idea. Special hand pump required. See your local dealer.

If the compressor isn't shot you can change the relay, it's the same one that's on the Anti Lock brakes. The air ride one is on the passenger side and the Anti Lock brake relay is on the driver's side, this way you won't have to buy one if that's not the problem. If the compressor isn't shot you can change the relay, it's the same one that's on the Anti Lock brakes. The air ride one is on the passenger side and the Anti Lock brake relay is on the driver's side, this way you won't have to buy one if that's not the problem.

i need to no witch side is number one cylinder is on a 4.6 liter Lincoln town car the year is a 79

In either case, it's on the driver's side.

Depending on how big the air compressor is, and what brand it is, weights can vary widely from the relatively small to the huge.

P225/60R16

http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2005/2005_freestar.html

Run your engine with the A/C on and watch the end of the compressor where the belt is. If it kicks on you will see the it start turning. if it doesn't turn and never starts turning you may need your A/C charged with freon. If the belt smokes you compressor may be locked up.

where is the resister for the air conditioning fan located.

You will not be able to route a different belt without the compressor even if you use a shorter belt but you can sometimes get what is called a "bypass" pulley for some of the models but I would need to know the year and engine size to see if one is available.......

i"m not sure if a Lincoln navigator would have a sway bar, But my sway bar broke in my Chevy celebrity once and the whole car would rock side to side after turns and such. it's a bar by the rear axle and mine literally broke in two.

Just "Look fer it". It's front side has a pully tied to the serpentine drive belt system and it's back side has alumiumn tubing going to the front air conditioner radiator and another larger tubing going to the firewall area where the AC evaporater is located.

behind the drivers side rear tire wrapped in a flexible rubber blanket.

Air conditioning can be thought of as a kind of 'heat pump'...moving heat from one area to another. When a gas is compressed heat is generated and the temperature of the compressed gas rises. When a gas loses pressure heat is lost, and the temperature of the (now less-compressed) gas drops.

So the compressor of an AC system in a car takes AC gas and, yep, compresses it. This takes place in the engine compartment, so (unwanted 'waste') heat is added under your hood. But the compressed gas then flows through the AC lines to an ac unit under your dash, where it goes through an oriface and pressure is released (think of spraying water out of a hose...the water in the hose is compressed, the spray of water outside your hose nozzel is de-compressed.). Although it goes through an oriface, the gas/fluid is not released into your car interior, the entire AC system is a 'closed' system...the AC fluid is used over and over...compressing and getting hot under the hood, decompressing and getting cool inside your passenger area, but still retained within the AC "plumbing."

When the AC gas/fluid goes through the oriface and is less compressed, it gets cold. Air being pushed through the AC unit (kind of like a little radiator) under your dash is consequently cooled, and voila, cool air comes out your dash vents.

In effect the result is heat has been moved from inside your passenger area of your car to under your hood.

Hope that helps answer your question, Paul.

PS: I may not have used all the right terminology, but I'm pretty sure I'm on track with the overall theory of how it all works.

Air compressor??? Do you mean Air Conditioner Compressor? This service is best left to a professional who has the proper equipment, and skill to perform this repair.

An air compressor sucks in and compresses air from the atmosphere. Whatever contaminants present in the air at the air intake of the compressor will be present in the air which is discharged from the compressor, with the possible exception of particulates which are filtered by the intake air filter.

It is possible that carbon monoxide and other engine exhaust emissions, or ambient gases, or polutants can be in the atmosphere near the compressor intake. These invisible gases mix with the "air" and are compressed and discharged from the compressor.

This is one reason why it is not safe to breath the air from a compressor unless the compressor is labeled that it is rated and approved as a breathing air source. Even then, the compressor must be in proper working condition and be operated by a qualified person. Breathing air from a compressor that is not rated and approved for breating air applications CAN KILL YOU.

If the fuses and AC clutch relay are good, the most likely condition is that there is a leak in the system. Most AC service centers will have equipment to determine if there is a hardware issue. This is not an end user servicable condition, Sorry!

Heat is being released from the reaction into the surrounding hands, so it’s exothermic. A chemical reaction takes place when the packet is squeezed that allows the reactants to mix. The reaction is similar to rust. It has iron reacting with oxygen and water. Other compounds are involved to allow the heat to be released over some time. The package is made of a specially engineered micro-fabric that keeps the chemicals inside but also allows oxygen from the air to enter the reaction mixture. If the package starts to cool, users can squish the contents again to bring more iron to the surface near the fabric and generate more heat. From the fact that just a small amount of reactants can be used to create so much heat, we can deduce that the reactants in this reaction have a lot of chemical potential energy.

Yes. and you have to remove the belt that runs alternator-power steering etc before you can remove the air conditioning belt.

go to the salvage yard and put that one in and it will work. It's not hard to get out just two wires you unplug. Make sure you take off the neg from you battery before you install the one you got.

Try replaceing the a/c relay. On my Chevy S-10 blazer the relay is on the firewall passenger side.

Your blower motor is failing and is only working on high speed.

IT COULD THAT YOUR SYSTEM IS EITHER OVERCHARGED OR UNDER CHARGED. ALSO CHECK YOUR FURNACE FILTER.AND MAKE SURE YOUR OUTDOOR UNIT is clear of dirt and obstructions.

---------------------------------------------------------------

There are several reasons for a compressor to overheating

High compression ratios are the result of either lower than normal suction pressures or higher than normal discharge pressures. Changes in suction pressure will affect the compression ratio more rapidly than changes in the discharge pressure. For this reason, it is important to keep the suction pressure at its highest possible value.

Causes of low suction pressure can include incorrect sizing of components, misadjusted or defective metering devices (TXVs), loss of refrigerant charge, plugged driers or strainers, and excessive suction line pressure drop.

Although not as sensitive to change as the suction pressure, the discharge pressure can still greatly affect the compression ratio. Keeping the discharge pressure within normal operating conditions is still important.

Causes of high discharge pressure can include dirty condensing coils, undersized discharge line, a blockage or recirculation of condenser air, erratic condenser fan operation, refrigerant overcharge, noncondensibles in the system, and an undersized condenser.

2001 it should be located PASSENGER SIDE UNDER THE GLOVE BOX TO THE RIGHT THERE IS A PANEL IT IS A BLACK SWITCH RECTANGLE SHAPED. MAKE SURE YOU TURN IT BACK ON BEFORE DRIVING

The 5th through 8th numbers of a VIN "T61L" mean 2.5L V6 SMPI DOHC 24v

The 10th digit on a VIN is the year. Y is the year 2000

If the blower motor is not running on either heat or cool, then the motor may be bad. Also the blower motor has a fuse. Another possibility is a defective blower motor resistor pack. Are you sure the compressor is not working and not just the blower motor? "Wirewilly" Here I repeat Fuses have been checked both under the drver side dash and left side under engine hood. Four prong relays how do you resistance check those? Yes the blower and compressor are not receiving voltage! When i first discovered the problem I thought bad blower motor so i tap on the motor like many no good GM electric recent 12 volt motors too see if it would free up, then took a voltage reading its dead no incoming volts for the blower or the compressor causing it not engage!So it should be a related electronic controling device for both A/C and heater! The best way to check a 4 prong fuse is to just substitute a known good one. I would suspect your blower motor problem is the resistor pack, although the switch itself could also be bad. A bad switch would account for no voltage at the compressor. See if you have voltage going to the resistor pack. If so the pack is bad. Good luck.

the low side is located behind the engine by the fire wall to the passager side should have a green or ble cap on it