Air Compressors

Check on the firewall passenger side-may have to remove plastic cover There are is whole string of relays at this location. The AC compressor relay is the one furthest on the left.

The system must be evacuated first using a vacuum pump. then freon can be added to the low pressure side.

Diagram of a rotary screw compressor

In an oil-flooded rotary screw compressor, oil is injected into the compression cavities to aid sealing and provide cooling sink for the gas charge. The oil is separated from the discharge stream, then cooled, filtered and recycled. It is usual for some entrained compressor oil to carry over into the compressed gas stream. In some applications, this is rectified by coalescer/ filter vessels. Standard oil-flooded compressors are capable of achieving output pressures over 200 psig, and output volumes of over 1500 cubic feet per minute (measured at 60 °C and atmospheric pressure). In an oil-free compressor, the air is compressed entirely through the action of the screws, without the assistance of an oil seal. They usually have lower maximum discharge pressure capability as a result. However, multi-stage oil-free compressors, where the air is compressed by several sets of screws, can achieve pressures of over 150 psig, and output volume of over 2000 cubic feet per minute (measured at 60 °C and atmospheric pressure). Oil-free compressors are used in applications where entrained oil carry-over is not acceptable, such as medicial research and semiconductor manufacturing.

Fuse is behind glove compartment door in fuse panel on left side of compatment. There is also a relay under the hood also on left side near the headlight.

Lower the glove box door and remove the interior box. There will be a total of 4 screws holding the glove box in place. Once the glove box is removed, you will see your relays for the A/C. The Clutch relay will have 4 wires (two brown, one blue with white stripe and one light green) You will also see your low blower relay and hi blower relay. Hope that helps

On 134a sysyems there are two ports, The high pressure side and low pressure side. The ports are different sizes. Add refridgerant to the BIGGER or FATTEST port. And remember that 16 ounces is equal to 1 lbs......so two 12 ounce cans equal 1 1/2 lbs. and DONT OVER FILL IT !!! Very costly mistake....and very danger,too.

yes...you can adjust the front torsion bars. there is a bolt at the end on the bar which you will find underneath at about the end of the front door of the vehicle. simply tighten up the bolt a turn or two then drive the truck around the block and then check to see if it's evened out, if not you might loosen the bolt on the side that's higher and then drive the truck again then park it and see if it's all even now. there is not separate air shock ride height sensors for each side just one for front and back so you can't adjust the air shocks for side to side lean but the torsion bar adjustment should fix it if not then you might have a bad air shock on one side although you should have a pump the runs too much or a suspension light on if the shock is bad.

your local paintball field. Or you can purchase a scuba tank and adapter to fill the paintball tank with and every once in a while fill the scuba tank up if you live like out in the middle of nowhere

Because GM went to a sealing washer seal system for later vehicles (including this one), one side of the hose manifold is 'stepped', meaning that it sits slightly higher than the other. Both sides use a 'standard' 5/8 sealing washer (GM, in their infinite wisdom, designed several different sizes and heights). While there may be the appearance of a very slight gap, there actually, of course, can be none if a proper seal is made. The most accurate way to test for a good seal is to use an electronic leak detector. Note: overtightening of the hose manifold hold-down bolt will result in permanent damage to the compressor body. Good luck. SDIgroup

We changed compressor, put in new air bags, and car sits sideways. What needs to be bled? 1996 Lincoln Twncar.

I believe that the company ceased trading and is bankrupt.

http://www.forbes.com/markets/feeds/afx/2008/03/19/afx4792466.html

If you can find out who is handling the liquidation of the company you might be able to get a manual.

The Haynes Repair Manual #92036 for Toyota Corolla and Geo/Chevy Prism 1993 thru 2002 (ISBN 1 56392 455 2) $25 gives step by step information on how to change the AC compressor. Good luck! I am about to give it a try myself. == Insure that debris screens are installed in both the suction and discharge ports, else your warranty may be at risk. Replacement of the drier/receiver/hose unit assembly and the strainer/orifice tube is highly recommended. Compressor failure causes debris to be quickly distributed throughout the entire system. This can cause expansion valve failure or plugging-up of the condenser, also.

I am looking at doing it myself. I have a 1992 dx and 1994 lx and both compressors are out. My 92 is whirrling from the compressor bearings going out. I was told after you are done replacing it , you still have to get the AC serviced. I also think you have to purge the system/vent the lines that run through it. I am looking at the combined comressor/clutch. How much did you find a new compressor for? If you find one under 400.00 let me know. Thanks

TURN OFF SWITCH INSIDE TRUNK ON RIGHT SIDE

check the a/c clutch when those go out the whole system shorts out

either under the hood in the fuse box or under the stering wheel.... in the driver door... or under the glove box!!! sry i cant tell you for sure but its in one of those places... you ay want to look at your car's book also

it is onthe passenger side under the hood around the head lamp

There are three 13mm bolts on the front of the compressor and one 10mm bolt on the back. the rest is recovering the froen, taking the lines off, there is a plug on the back of the compressor.

You can do one of two things, one take it to an A/C specialist but that would cost a lot money. Or, you can change the accumulator and the orfice tube and evacuate the total system and retro fit the fittings and charge the system with R134a. Either way you will be out of a little change.

If it was set so that it runs without shutting down and the temperature has dropped such as at night. Than it may just need time to thaw. The coil inside the unit in the house will be frozen, so set the fan to on to speed up the thawing. Also you should check the inside coil for clogging or restricted air flow. Restricted air flow can cause this problem. The coil may not look that dirty when you look in at it, so get a flashlight and take a close look. If you do some cleaning, be carful not to bend the fins. Also change the filter if it is dirty. This may save you a service call, but it may be something more than what the home owner can do.

The pump on a Mark VIII is located on the passenger side in front of the front wheel very near the front bumper cover. To access it, you have to remove the right front wheel, the wheel well liner, and the silencer. Then it helps to be patient and have a set of metric sockets and extensions.

enthalpy of air leaving the compressor minus enthalpy of air entering the compressor

ts diagram of reciprocating air comprssior

Most likely you have a damaged - locking a/c compressor internally.............