Buick Rendezvous

take the steering column assemble apart starting with the upper dash panels. ull have to cut the wires connected to the speedometer once you remove the gauge cluster (make sure u have some wire nuts to reconnect them) now follow the wire u just cut to the fuse box. the fuse next to the fuse for these wires has a blue and a red wire connected to it. follow those wires back up toward the speedometer and ull run right into the speed sensor. its self explanitory from that point.

15 AMP

The camshaft is located inside the engine block.

4.6 qrts including filter

wheel speed sensor gets dirty and causes a misread

Horn Fuse # 14 ( 20 amp) in the fuse panel on the passenger side. Be sure and check fuse. Exchange with another 20 amp fuse and try horn if horn still does not work then it is the horn relay located under the hood fuse panel.

its in the center console by the fuse box cant post an illustration

here is a link via Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAPgSexZ2rY

I had to have my bcm replaced. I was told that it was due to car being jumpstarted which is another issue. I had to take it to the dealer with a cost of replacement being $600

look for the screw under the grab handle and take out the one behind the red reflector on the edge of the door then take a flat blade screwdriver and put it between the the door tirim and pop out all the clips along the door frame then lift up on the door cover and it is now off

I had to figure this out through trial and error. I'm not quite sure which ones are positive or negative yet.

Blu/Red = Constant Power
Blu/Black = Switched Power
Blu-Tan & Lavender = Left Front
White & Tan = Right Front
White/Blu & Black/Blu = Left Back
Blu & Blu/White = Right Back


Hopefully this will save others from having to go through what I did.

Their is a backup battery system built into the On-Star module. It should never need replacing over the life of the vehicle.

The solenoids are in the bottom of trans one is for the torque converter lock up/"overdrive" and the rest are shift solenoids remove the trans pan and be careful cause fluid will go everywhere bigger catch pan the better when the pan is off the solenoids are in the ends of the valve body and have a wiring harness attached to them unplug harness and remove spring clip and it should slide out you may have to wiggle or rotate slightly while pulling it out not sure witch one is witch but most electronic GM's are like that

It is located under the drivers side dash (knee height). Remove the black panel at your feet and look up and to the left. It is a drab looking aluminium box (approx 6"x10"). To remove, there is a tab in the shape of a triangle about half way up the left side that needs to be depressed while sliding the unit towards the rear of the vehicle. Once you slide it all the way, it will pull straight away.

To reinstall just reverse the process.

the most expensive one.......lol

It would help if you'd mentioned the manufacturer/model/year of the vehicle. Since it's posted in the Solara section (along with Ford and Buick) I'll take a shot. I'll also assume you're talking about the Gen II Solara (2004 and beyond). If any of these assumptions is wrong ask your question again or (better) purchase a service manual for your car.

To 'Locate the top of rear strut" you can simply remove the rear wheel and take a look. To "access" the top of the rear strut for removal on the Solara is a little more comlicated.

1. Remove rear seat

2. Remove package tray (if it's a coupe and not convertible)

You can now get to the top strut mounting bolts. After that all the usual cautions and procedures apply. Lift car, support with jack stands, support rear axle, remove rear wheels, remove items attached to strut and (carefully) support them out of the way. Disconnect stabilizer bar link. Now the three upper strut bolts can be removed and the axle (carefully) lowered.

Cheers

Try checking you cabin air filters. They could be clogged up with junk making air flow weak.

Low pressure port - Larger hose from air compressor

There are two. Most oil changing places will offer to replace them for you. It can make quite a difference by eliminating the stink out of your A/C vents...squeezing

visit www.littlepassengerseats.com to add seating to your Escalade

I have one of these and am having the same problem. Found an answer on a different website but don't know if it will fix the problem yet since I am waiting for my husband to get home. The other website said to change the wiring harness from the Wheel speed sensor up into the main wiring harness. They said the connectors can become loose or a wire broke or frayed cuz the wires aren't that protected. There were a few ppl that said they changed theirs and that fixed their problem. I hope that helps and will hope have mine fixed soon as well. All brakes have been replaced a new caliper put on 2 new rotors put on and still comes on so the harness could be the problem. Good luck to u hope u get urs fixed

hey there this is Steve im a Saturn mechanic in st.catharines on.anyway to answer your question the coolant temp sensor is in the head under the upper rad hose,if you want a tip make sure the connector has no signs of green corosion,and when u change the sensor inspect the sensor if it is bad than it will be discoloured or have a crack in it. make sure you get a factory sensor because they are now updated and it will be made of brass not plastic,also don't worry about the way you unplugged it,it doesn't matter what way it plugs in its only a thermistor,by the way the 97's were bad for fuel pumps.

First pry off center cap with Mercury Logo. Second Remove the screws securing the wheel cover to the wheel cover adapter. The OEM tool provided is "T" shaped with a screw driver for prying and a small socket at the bottom of the "T" for removing the screws. A small socket wrench will work fine. Good Luck

Obviously, the front three are fairly easy to reach. The rear three are the real problem. The easiest way to do the rear three is to jack the front of the vehicle up, crawl underneath until you can see the back of the engine from the ground, get real comfortable, making sure the engine and exhaust are cooled down, reach your arm up and pull the boots, very carefully.... then replace the spark plugs. You will not be able to see the plugs themselves, but this seems to be the easiest way. (just replaced the head gaskets on my wife's 02 rend., what a chore!)

What you need the most for the back 3 is PATIENCE, it's very tight, very strenuous and will take sometime, about 2 hours for me, (take a break or two, you're going to need it). You have to remove the boots as mentioned earlier, mine were very hard too take off, took all my strength. Do one plug at a time. You will need a deep socket with a short extension. Wear a long sleeve shirt too. Good luck!!!

This is "BBAASPENCER" here in TN and I would like to give you another answer. Actually, the correct way GM list in their service manual is to take off the engine dog bones, attach a pulling strap to the engine and hoist and roll it until you gain access. That is the same procedure for many SUV/Van GM front wheel drives. If the first procedure listed here works for you, I'm okay with that. I just wanted to give you another option. Here is a video on this new engine tool. Will try it soon to see of it works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIkbbl7cBo

No. It secures the headlight assembly in place. The headlight adjustments are the square slot crews that have a spring assembly around them.