Buick Rendezvous

All you need is a 1/2 socket, preferably deep socket, and a 1/4 hex wrench, preferably a torx wrench. Inside the rear floor storage compartment, remove the 2 silver hex head nuts. This will then allow you to remove the storage compartment. Then use the 1/4 hex wrench (actually this is a torx screw, but the hex wrench works) to remove the seat belt mounting to the floor. Fold the seat down, if not already done so. Then go under the front of the third row seats and remove the two hex nuts. With all four nuts and the torx bolt removed, you can lift out the seat. **Minor Edit** I find it easier to leave the seat in the up position to remove the front seat boltsthen fold it down. i dont think you can even get to them when the seat is folded flat.

HMMM I dont know what the question is but i gather the ABS light is on . one of the common problems with these cars is the hubs which the ABS speed sensors are built into. not knowing all the details i would have to say the wiring or the speed sensors have gone bad which require the hubs to be replaced. check the wiring first. the hubs do have a extended warranty to 60K cause they fail so prematurely Good luck We found out this is a common problem with this car, with ours it was the wheel bearings, hub, rear differential and fluid ($2700). The good thing about it was the mechanic said the motor looked great and should last another hundred thousand miles.

You have to replace the hub assembly which is expensive. Cost me $226.00 for one for the rear. They aren't hard to change. Take the brake caliper off. Then take the 2 bolts out on the plate that holds the brake shoes. There are three bolts holding the hub assembly in. Take them out and pull the hub out. I was able to leave the parking brake in.

The seat heaters on a Buick Rendezvous is often repaired by re-seating the wiring harness and replacing the fuse. More severe issues may require the heating elements be replaced.

Have the front wheel bearings checked. There is a similar question on this site with this answer. The symptom was (abs disable on error display and the abs light on. Could be same problem. Slightly different simptom.

It's located right underneath the Throttle Body on the 3.1L motor. It's a little thing with wires running out from underneath it.

Try fuse 28. there is an orange wire that goes from fuse 32 into a splice pack and then to lighters. but fuse 28 taps onto it before the splice pack. that's the only thing it can be unless the console harness came undone.

YES A Rendezvous does has a shock and a strut on the rear.

34 mm (or 1 5/16")

replace with a new one.

Try ignition in "on" position engine not running accelerator to the floor 6 times On the dash there are 2 buttons one says mode the other says set. Press mode until you get to oil life ten hold down set until it resets.

you have to remove the glovebox entirely. when you do there will be a fairly large plastic box exposed. on that box you'll see a small door or hatch (approx 2"x8") there may be tabs to push in or a little tab sticking out that you can pull on to remove the door. inside is a small drawer that holds the filter. replace it the same way it came out.

Change the user display mode to show the Tire Pressure Monitor. Hold SET to reset

Best place to look is the tire reccomendation sticker on the driver side door or door jamb it also depends on he tire package you have the wheel covers are 15 i belive and the alloys are 16" and the newer CXL have 17" My 02 CX has 16" alloys P215/70R15

SUV's have a shorter lifespan so a ballpark figure would be 125,000 to 180,00 miles because of the 4-wheel drive option. This means more wear-and-tear and 4WD's are costly to maintain. If it's used with alot of miles, my first question is not how long it will last, but how many miles has it been since the timing chain/belt has been replaced. You will have one or the other and the average lifespan is 75,000+ before it breaks. If the belt or chain does break then it will cost you a good chunk of change to have it replaced. Some cases are worse than others because of what's called an "interference head issue" in some engines. When the timing goes out of synch then major parts start running into each other and you could wind up replacing the valves, pistons, heads, or even worse... the whole engine. This is one of the moments that it pays to stay ahead of the game and fork out the money to fix something that ain't broke.

pull the panel off there is this stupid gravity switch that sieze in all of them once panel is off spray mechanism with WD40 and work them by hand just need to be freed up

Try having the ATF and transmission filter changed. If that doesn't help you probably have a failing "valve body" in the transmission.

It means the traction control is disabled. By default when you start your car it's enabled and will kick in on lose gravel ice or snow disbrituting power to the necessary wheels and cutting engine power to control the car. It also disingages cruise control. To turn it off the switch is in the glove box compartment. Then it will display "traction control off". Now if it says this all the time I would assume you need to take it in to a dealer and have it checked out. Personally I don't care if mine works or not. Just more stuff to fix on these cars.

All fuel pumps for the injected GM vehicles are in the fuel tank. You need to get to it from the top of the tank. Occasionally there is a access plate but usually you need to drop the tank. It's not really that bad; the worst part is the weight of the fuel. Once the tank is down, the pump comes off with just a few small bolts and the pump is sealed to the tank with some plastic sealant. Just make sure you get all of the dirt and debris off the tank before you try to open it.

First you need to remove that support bar that's blocking access, 13mm bolt is accessible just behind the fuse box, if you have an extended socket. If you do not have an extended socket, you will need to loosen the fuse box screw with an 8mm wrench. The support bar will slide out after it is unbolted. Disconnect the battery terminals with an 8mm or 5/16 wrench. Then remove the battery hold down bolt, 13mm socket. Now, take the battery out-be patient, it's a tight fit but it will come out.

I just changed the battery on our 2006 Rendezvous 3500 V6. I found the above answer to be helpful, however I would like to add the following:

To obtain sufficient clearance to remove the battery, the radiator cap must be loosened 1/4 turn so that the cap tabs are out of the way. DO NOT LOOSEN cap while coolant is hot. Also, remove overflow hose at cap location for extra clearance using pliers to open the clamp and slide the hose off. Next, notice the small guard by the the serpentine belt and pulley system that a wire harness is attached to. A 10mm bolt can be felt underneath the metal plate; remove using a 1/4" socket and ratchet. Hand spin it off carefully and don't drop it!

The battery may have a foam wrap which must be removed. Lift the battery out by tilting and bringing it upward.

Set the new battery in, install battery hold down bolt with a 13mm socket. Re-install the harness plate (start bolt by hand) and secure it with a 10mm socket.

Turn the radiator cap back to the original position and re-attach the overflow hose. Connect the battery posts - positive first and negative second. Tighten with an 8mm socket.

Re-install the support brace (hint: put some gum or a piece of kleenex into the socket and press fit the bolt into the socket). Re-install the front two bolts of the support brace.

Start the car!!

locate the "tensioner" pulley, on the schematic that is under your hood, on top of the radiator. Then place a socket on the bolt head in the middle of that pulley, and with a breaker bar, pull the entire pulley towards the front of the van, releasing the tension, and letting the belt slip off easily. Repeat this procedure once you have the new belt routed around most of the pulleys properly and slip it over the tensioner pulley last. Double check belt alignment on all pulleys, make sure it is well tensioned, then start your van and let it idle about 5 to 10 seconds, shut it off, and recheck the belt alignment and tension. If all looks well, then close the hood and call it a job well done.

This is pretty much the right answer except that a standard size socket and breaker will not go on the tensioner pulley. The wheel hub is right directly across and there is not enough room. You need to use a wrench on the bolt and with a little imagination you can use something to help you gain leverage on the wrench making it easier to release the tension. I was able to use my jack handle and it fit over the head of the wrench and this gave me the help and leverage I needed. You will figure this out better when you are looking at it, you will see what has to be done. A word to the wise, if you can't figure out how to make something to give you leverage, you probably shouldn't be attempting this yourself in the first place.

No. Here's some info of what the numbers mean on your tire's sidewall;

P215/70 R16 for example...

"P" means "Passenger" class tire, others might read "LT" for "Light Truck".

The 215 is the width of the tread in millimeters...25.4mm per inch so your tread is about 8.6 inches wide. I'm not too great visualizing with metric...

The 70 is an Aspect Ratio...basically its a percentage comparing the height of your sidewall to the width of the tread...so the sidewall height is 70% of the tread width...so about 6 inches in this case.

The "R" stands for "Radial" tire. Most cars anymore have radials...has to do with the construction with the steel belts within the tire...but I digress.

Finally the last number, "16" here, is the diameter wheel the tire is made to fit, and there really is no "wiggle-room" or "making-it-fit" in this area.

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you will need to take to a garage and they will take down the serial number and find out for u shuld not be charged for it but if you are then it shuld not be over 10 pounds

Easy to do but takes time and you need to pay attention to what order you remove the items. Jack up the Bronco and support with jack stand on the side you are working on. It does not make sense to do both sides at the same time as that is a ton of weight just hanging up there. I prefer having 3 wheels on the ground. My 96 bronco has manual locking hubs.

1) Take off chrome cap with a small torc. They are not that tight.

2) remove 1st retention clip. This can be done with 1 (2 is better) small tip screwdriver. Then remove the large retainer clip that is circling the inside lip of the hub itself, keeping the lockable gear assembly in place. Again just use a screwdriver.

3) this should allow the entire inner and outer locking gears to basically 'spring' out as they are being pushed by the spring behind it. There is another easy retaining clip that keep the inner gear inside the outer gear but you don't have to remove this clip as the inner and out gear come out as 1 piece. Take the large spring out also obviously.

4) You will see an odd large nut with 4 notches on it. This looks like a special socket is needed but it is not. All you need is a large flat screwdriver and a hammer to gently tap "counter clockwise" as this nut is not torqued down very tight (and will not be when you put back on either).

5) take off the large washer with all the little holes in it. Remove it with a little angled pick of some sort as it just needs some help getting it all the way out of the hub. Notice the notch out lip on it as it only slides back on at a particular angle.

6) take off the next large nut the same way with a screwdriver, small pry bar etc. Remember counter clockwise. Notice the little 'nipple' of metal pointing towards you. This nipple actually goes through one of the holes in the washer you just took off (when re assembling). This is why I say pay attention to these small details as they matter.

7) now take out the outer bearing and repack with grease. Use the grease in the palm of your hand trick and just keep scooping and rotating until grease squeezes up and out of the race.

8)remove the hub.

9) now drive all 5 studs out by putting one lug nut on hand tight and tap it down with a hammer. To reverse you might want to use a large nut that fits loosely over each stud and air impact all 5 back on using 1 lug nut over your large nut as a spacer basically. I tried to just hammer them back in from the other side using a 3/4 extension and just could not do it all the way. The rotor was loose a bit so the impact gun idea worked best for me, or maybe just needed a bigger hammer!

10) The abs or speed sensor ring or whatever it is just taps off with a screwdriver and hammer and taps right back on.

11) to get the hub to fall out of the rotor I just hammered lightly on the outside of the back bearing race. It did not dent too bad and the hub just fell out.

12) repack the rear bearing after removing the seal. I even reused the seal as there was no grease leaking from it so what the heck.

13) put it all back together in reverse. Just don't hammer too tightly the 2 large nuts, just one or two light taps so the hub assembly is snug. Don't forget to line up the metal nipple on the inner nut with any hole in the washer that goes between the 2 large nuts.