Car Horns

Honking a car horn is to bring forth the sound of a car horn close to its maximum audible level, to attract utmost attention.

The relay may be bad. Replace it and if that doesn' fix it, the wire comming from the horn button is grounded somewhere.

its got 2 horns behind the front bumper.

Does it blow all the time or not work at all If it blows all the time it's the horn relay which is located on the horn it self horns from the dealer are expensive Mine's 58$ YOU might also have a blown fuse in the under the hood fuse box If the horn circuit is any thing at all like my sw2 the relay or horn wire has 3 wires one should be hot the other two are switched and a ground as far as I can figure out Good luck doug

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Just did this in wife's 1999 SL2. Watch this video for details. Total time less than 10 minutes to replace. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltiNuHdKeIg

jim

it is number 43 in under hood fuse and relay box.

Why Fuses "Blow," and Circuit Breakers "Trip" Fuses and Circuit Breakers are safety devices designed and installed in electrical circuits TO PROTECT the conductors [wires] from short circuits and/or overload conditions which can cause extreme overheating that can result in damage to the insulation and the conductors and worse, the possibility of a FIRE which could destroy the vehicle. When a fuse [and replacement fuses] blows, especially if it happens repeatedly, is an indication of an UNSAFE CONDITION in that circuit, usually a short. Do not install a larger fuse in a misguided attempt to correct the problem. To install a larger fuse would almost guarantee damage to the wiring and an electrical system fire. The proper "fix" is for a qualified technician, who knows what he/she is doing, to troubleshoot the circuit, find and identify the defect, and make proper repair [s], BEFORE replacing the fuse again [with the properly sized fuse].

# 8 15 A

The horn is located low on the passenger side, under the right headlight, where it is subject to road slush. After checking fuses, I'd check for corrosion at the terminal on the horn. If the airbag light is on and the horn doesn't work then you have a bad clock spring. That is best repaired by a certified technician.

Super loud they have be that loud in case a a jerk in front of you is not paying atttenion.

Most likely the horn itself is bad...It's under the drivers side headlight. If the horn is ok check the orange wire close to the horn It may have arced onto the frame within 6 inches of the connector Most likely the horn itself is bad...It's under the drivers side headlight. If the horn is ok check the orange wire close to the horn It may have arced onto the frame within 6 inches of the connector

Ford Model T

Well I had a 1995 Protege but I think is on the same place. It's beehint the right corner of the front cover. You have to remove the black cover under the car to see it. Mazda hide pretty well.

IT 'S ON THE RADIATOR SUPPORT BEHIND THE HEADLIGHT. THERE IS A HORN ON EACH SIDE.

When you, or your "helper" cut the horn, I assume you mean he cut the wires to the horn. If this is the case, the click you hear is the horn relay trying to send power to the horn which is now disconnected.

there unfortunatly is no relay switch for the horn. It is on a fused circuit usaually with the dome light and beeper that sounds when the door is open and after you start the vehicle

Check your owners manual. If you don't have one copy & paste this link. http://www.genuineservice.com/genuineservice/en/gloveboxresults

I just had this problem. You have to look under the passenger side front wheel well. There's a plastic cover held on by about 10-12 screws. Take the screws out and the plastic cover just slides out (there is a little plastic cap thing on the top that takes a little tug). Then look up under the fender and you'll find a horn. Be sure if you're gettting a new horn to get one that looks like the little black horn with two knobs - not the flat silver things. Took about 15-20 minutes.

Your battery and alternator need attention. It sounds as if the charging is faulty and your battery has degraded.

It's under the dash, just above the fuse box.

Relays can be a pain sometimes. There are two acceptible methods for checking relays ( that you can do at home anyway) the first and easiest is to simply swap it with a known good relay of the same specs. if this is not possible then the only other way is with an ohmeter ( a quality multitester is a must have for any do it yourselfer). compare the suspect relay to it's connector there should be four wires, two thin (control circuit) and two thick (power circuit). you need to connect your ohmeter across the power circuit. and connect a jumper wire to each control circuit terminal. connect one jumper to the ground post on your vehicles battery and touch the other to the positive for no more two seconds at a time while watching your ohmeter. If the relay is working properly you should have less then one ohm showing. if the reading is high, or the tool does nothing, you've found you're problem, otherwise, start following wires and checking for voltage, or check the whole system by jumping the power circuit. check the control circuit with an ohmeter, turn the switch on with battery disconnected and key in run position and check ohms across the relays empty connector, more than 2 ohms means a short or bad connection. good luck and be careful out there eh..

PS... use a stick or something between the horn and seat to keep the switch closed while you check the control circuit ( one person can bleed brake systems with this technique).

check fuse then relay then ground

The Chevrolet Silverado 1500 or is located in the engine compartment. The horn will be next to the radiator, on the right hand side.

It'sd in the front. Activate it and listen for where the noise comes from. Also, consider asking this question again, but use Toyota Corolla instead of Pontiac Lemans.

Short in the wiring or the lighter socket is defective.