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Car Shaking Problems
Car shaking problems are usually the results of mechanical problems. Out of adjustment tires or suspension will make the car shake after reaching a certain speed. Warped brake rotors will also make the car shake when it’s slowing down.
2,252 Questions
Should you use neutral gear when you stop the car?
If you are certain you are not going immediately to have to move again, and provided you have used up close to all of the engine braking effect, i.e. selecting netural a a failry LATE stage, then yes.
Otherwise, no, stop in gear, to maximise engine braking and to be ready to go again, if likely soon.
Stabilizer bar or bushings. Could also be stabilizer bar end links. If it is a 1/2 ton and acts like an older car with a bad idler arm - have the rack and pinion checked. A recall was quitely announced in late 2000 regarding the factory use of improper an rack - too small for the truck wheelbase. They had a replacement kit with a larger rack including lower a-arms, powersteering pump and bushings. Did you check the front and rear Wheel bearings?
it could be the tires. especially if it has been curb checked. a bent rim isn't unreasonable either
Check the universal joints and balance of the driveshaft. When you are accelerating pressure is applied to these parts and if they are worn or out of balance or dented they will cause a vibration that will stop when you let off the gas.
Why would the steering wheel on your car shake?
If it happens when you are driving fast (60-70 MPH) it could be that your wheels are out of alignment.
Spark plug gap on a 1983 F-150?
According to one of Ford's websites :
For a 1983 Ford F-150 , 4.9 liter / 300 cubic inch inline six cylinder , 5.0 liter / 302 cubic inch V8 , 5.8 liter / 351 cubic inch V8 engines
( .044 inch spark plug gap )
What causes steering wheel vibration while driving and while braking the whole crossover vibrates?
maybe the car need to be linged up n check the power steering.
Is it necessary to reset a car computer after installing a part?
No, it is not necessary. But unless your reset the check engine light you will not know you replaced the defective part.
Why does my steering wheel shake when driving your 2007 Hyundai copue SE?
Most likely you have a tire out of balance. It can also be a bent or loose wheel. Have the tires rotated and balanced. They will tell you if a wheel is bent.
What does it mean if truck starts to shake when gas pedal is pressed?
One reason that your truck might start to shake when the gas pedal is pressed is because the tires could need to be balanced. The problem could also be your shock absorbers, or struts.
* It has less to do with the gas pedal as it has to do with parts affected by acceleration.
What cause the car to wobble when slowing?
you might want to check the brakes and roters they might be broken or warped...that would be the my first guess...then you might check the alignment
They are the hollowed out shapes/areas in the motor block, which the pistons move up and down through. The petrol is let into the cylinder, when piston pushes up, the petrol explodes and pushes the piston down. The bigger the cylinder the bigger to push, the more powerful the motor.
needs new spark plugs and tune up
Why would my car turn over but shakes badly and acceleration is slow CE light on and smell gas?
One or more cylinders are firing badly or not at all. It needs a major tune-up.
If car jerks around 70 miles per hour, the wheel may off balance. The axle or undercarriage may also have issues.
Where is the transmission fluid dip stick on a 2000 s type jaguar?
There isn't one. The transmission has to be drained and filled from underneath.
Why would your car vibrate a lot when stopped and foot is on the brake?
The most common causes to a problem like this is a bad motor mount, and of course, its usually the rear one that is the hardest to access.
The circumstances of the problem will help in its diagnosis.
(I'm assuming based on your title that the car is an automatic).
These are the things i would use to diagnose the problem.
1. To check on the motor mounts, you can try to shake the engine by hand (let the motor cool off a while so you don't burn yourself. If the motor rotates much front to back or side to side, you likely have a busted motor mount. Also, have a friend sit in the car with the brake applied and move the car from neutral to drive or reverse. A bad motor mount will be apparent by a much larger than normal movement of the engine.
2. If your engines RPM drop or fluctuate when you are stopped with the car in gear, it may be a vacuum related issue or related to you air conditioning. Does it happen with you Air conditioning both on and off? If only when its on, look there. You may need to service your AC compressor or belt. Your brake booster or other vacuum hoses may also be leaking, causing the engine to run roughly. You can usually see the brake booster hose is a larger black vacuum hose the goes from the brake booster on the firewall to the back on your intake manifold. You can Google all this for pictures, but if you aren't comfortable identifying these parts, you probably should get some help for the repair.
3. If it isn't one of these issues, it may be a more serious issue related either to your engine or your transmission. Engine vibrations you may not notice when the car isn't stopped, or a problem with your torque converter in your transmission could causes theses symptoms, but they would likely be more wide-spread (vibration at all times, or while driving)
What could cause extreme vibration when braking in a 1997 Yukon?
As there is no more information on what you have already checked, i shall start with basics. Have you checked the condition of the brakes? If there is plenty of brake material and the discs are not scored or rusting into the pad clamp area, then you need to get the discs checked for warp. This is normally done by placing a DTi guage on a solid stand next to the disc (touching it) the disc is then spun slowly to determine if there are significant changes in the reading on the DTi guage. If there are, then you need new discs.
The calipers may be failing. Just age and heat related. I have carried newspapers by night (a heavy load) and suffered similar problems. With wear the piston within the brake caliper will bind up and not allow hydraulic pressure to back off of the shoes against the rotor. The shoes will grip the rotor causing further heat buildup and warping of the rotor. It is the warped rotor that will cause the front brake chatter. Often a rebuilt caliper is cheaper than a rotor and a set of brake pads. You may have a caliper that is allowing the brake pad to rub, or the vehicle may be a little heavy for brake design. If the problem went away after you turned the rotors, that's a good indication that the rotors were warped causing your brake chatter. If the vehicle is loaded heavy or the brakes work hard for any reason, the rotors will heat up and warp, causing brake chatter. That's just the nature of disk brakes. You may be able to get better service from some NEW rotors, and if you're buying them from an auto parts store, make sure they aren't oriental iron. Often cheaper iron will warp easily. You may need to pay more for dealer rotors, but if you keep having the problem, that may be your only solution. I've used imported rotors for my vehicles and the vehicles I've repaired for others and haven't had a problem, but it can be a problem for some people.
Where can you find a Diagram from the number location of the spark plugs -- Mazda MPV 2003?
need to replace all my spark plugs on my Mazda mpv 2003 please help me.
Why does it sound like air is seeping out when I press my brake pedal on my 1997 Chevy Tahoe.?
The power brakes on most vehicles operate on the engine vacuum. If there is a leak or problems with the power brakes it can make a hissing sound. But then, sometimes power brakes do that when they're working properly. It could be from either a hole in the diaphragm of the brake booster or normal operation. If the sound is new, and was not there before, and your brake pedal is going to the floor, then you should have the power booster replaced.
Hi
Well, you have your answer: you have a cylinder misfiring. You need to know which one it is and why.
Taking two pieces of stick, or a pair of WELL INSULATED rubber-handled pliers, start the engine and take off the first plug wire. If that cylinder is good, the idle will get much worse, and it will probably even stall, so you know that one is firing if the engine does not change. Keep going through the plug wires until you pull the wire and nothing changes. That's the bad cylinder.
Pull the plug and look at it, and compare it to the sample photos that usually appear in the workshop manual. If the electrode has burned away you have a different problem than if the plug is fouled with burned oil, or if it is soaking wet with gasoline that it should be burning but isn't.
If you recently changed all the plugs, did it run allright for a while, then go bad again, or did changing the plugs make no difference? Because that would indicate something more likely wrong with something else and not the plugs themselves.
Is your intrepid equipped with the 3.5 liter engine? If so you likely have an air intake plenum gasket leaking. The fact that the pcm has stored a misfire code for cyl # 5 should give you a starting point to check for this condition. With the engine running at normal idle speed in park briefly spray some aerosol carb cleaner at the area where the intake plenum (upper ) is bolted to the lower intake (at #5 cylinder intake runner). If the engine smooths out when sprayed or the idle rpm increases or decreases noticably then you need to remove the upper plenum & look for a section of the gasket cracked & sucked inward, or missing entirely. This is a common condition on the 3.5. if the plenum gasket seems to be intact & no change is noted with the carb spray then you may have an issue with the fuel injector on #5 cylinder. Good luck!
