Car Shaking Problems

One reason your Aurora may shake when you stop is your fuel injectors are not plugged in completely. It could also be due to weak spark plugs or a bad motor mount.

Take it to a tire shop, and they will spin balance them.

Under the car about midway to the engine in the frame rail> It takes special tools available cheap at the parts store.

It could be a number of things. But, I would start with the Mass Air Flow(MAF) Sensor. That's what happened with my '96 Suburban. When you open the hood. It's located in between the two coil hoses that run from your air filter to the motor. Start up the engine and pull out the plug. If the engine changes idle then it's probably not it. But, if it does could be the source of the problem.

Check for loose exhause system components, damaged catalytic converter, or spark knock(ping.)

Drive to a trusted tire shop and have them inspect the tires and wheels. Make sure they balance all 4 tires and check them for defects.

Spray WD40 on the door seals. It will help under some conditions, perhaps not in the horrible weather like freezing rain.

I have also heard that vasoline helps. You can put it on the key and insert in the keyhole before the freezing weather comes so your car lock won't freeze.

yes they need turned or replaced, 65;

Can be many reasons depending on where the shake is from and what speed.

First check tyre pressures are correct. Check for bulges in tyres....have you hit kerb? Is wheel dented?

check wheels and tyres are all the same size and are fixed on properly.

check if tyres are worn badly/ unevenly, just run hand over them lightly and feel any sawtooth type wear. If its this get car aligned and change tyres.

If vibration is about 42 mph then front wheels need balancing if 50+ then rear wheels.
Get this done at GOOD tyre dealer.

If its more check the suspension and shocks also anti roll bar links etc.

balance front tires

The most likely causes are vacuum leak, bad plug/coil, a sensor (EGR, O2, etc.), or fuel delivery problems. If the car is a recent model and driveable, take it to the nearest auto parts retailer/service center and have them scan it for errors.

The most Probable cause would be a broken motor or transmission mount. Best thing to do would be to take it to a technician to verify.

You're tires weren't balanced properly

the most common car jerks are related to old spark plugs and the such. there is also the need to change the gasoline filter. after that other serires of engine checks are also the case.

it looks like a tie when you go to work or court or grautions

Bad tire, wheel bearing, bent wheel???

When was the last time you had brake work done? It sounds like the brake rotors cannot dissipate the heat from the heavy braking. If they overheat they can temporarily warp until they cool back down. I see this typically on rotors that were machined (sometimes still within acceptable limits) or from poor quality rotors.

Check the tie rod ends for wear. Have a friend rock the steering wheel side to side in the center and listen for a thunking or slapping noise at the rear of the front tires. Jack up the car in front and rock the wheel side to side (hands at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and check for looseness.

Good luck.

One or possibly both of the brake rotors are out of wack and you need to replace them. I had the same problem on my 97 accord. I replaced the passenger side rotor and car is running and braking just fine.

Warped rotors. Get them lathed (Sp?) and don't forget new pads. If you leave the old pads on they'll wear grooves into the new(er) rotors thus making their life shorter and the problem re-arising.

A garage that my cousin had taken his '94 Buick Century to listed that it needed front struts, upper strut mount plates and inner tie rods. But after seeing these other answers here and helpful answers in other auto forums while researching in the mid part of April, 2005, my suspicions were confirmed that the shaking-only-when-braking on his car was caused by front brake rotor warpage (Although, later on, he also started to notice that when he put one finger on the steering wheel while cruising without braking, there was a very slight vibratory movement of the steering wheel...which I had summed up to just commonly being the brake pads resting lightly against the rotors even when no pressure is applied since rotor calipers do not have any type of return spring which would pull the brakes away any further). So just recently (4-21-05), against the "professional's" conclusions and $500.00 estimate (who had listed almost everything else but rotors as the cause), I put on all new front rotors and brakes (a total of about $51.00) and the car then braked beautifully with no vibration whatsoever. Vullin

If a tire is unbalanced, the unbalanced dynamic forces causes the tire to run eccentrically. This eccentric movement causes reduced tire traction. The loss of traction results in a power loss, thus MPG is reduced. Additionally, unbalanced tires wear out faster. A tire that is out of balance can also impact your vehicle

Could be a tire or wheel that is out of balance

Could be a bad tire with internal damage Could need a new car

Loose motor mounts.

Bad o2 or maf sensor

This is probably caused by a worn or poorly lubricated suspension part such as an idler arm, strut or stabalizer bar. If you have not had a chassis lubrication lately, have a technician check it out. Today very few chassis parts require lubrication, and some cheapie oil changes no longer include a lube, even though they still call it an LOB - lube, oil and filter.

Most normally tire balance, poor tire condition, and the u joints should be checked as well. I'm positive it's one of the three.

Check tires for blisters, or tread separation and tire balance.

Check your shocks and make sure they are connected also wheels for bent rims.

Check out wheel bearings and wheels are evenly torqued with all lug nuts.

If it has a distributor, there is a bolt near where the distributor shaft enters the engine. Loosen it. Use a timing light gun, it connects to the number 1 cylinder spark plug wire and shoots a light. Aim that light on the harmonic balancer while the engine runs. There should be a little metal/plastic tab with degree markings on it. When the light shines, you should see a mark (usually a groove) on the harmonic balancer right in the range of that metal/plastic tab. Rotate the distributor to make that mark/groove line up with the right timing degree.

Dont have a timing light gun and dont want to buy one, do it by ear...with just slight movements of the distributor, you can hear when the engine is running its best. Won't be perfect, but will be close enough.

If it has coil packs and is electronically controlled, you can probably just reset the computer (disconnect the battery and leave it till the next day).