Car Sounds

It possible that youre still going too fast to get into that gear. The clutch and pilot bearing could worn out also. Good luck.

for each speed and gear there is a specific speed at which it is safe to downshift to the next gear with a known blip strength. being human you cant be perfect and know exactly what blip strength will do right for just about any speed to any lower gear (demanding the car shift whenever you feel like it), So you have to simplify things a bit and make it known where you can get away with doing the same blip all the way on down the line. the most gentle blip possible. shifting wherever the car feels like it. You gotta jump through some circus hoops. the car is a whole lot more picky than you ever thought and if you arent willing or able to make repeatable very high blips, then your options will be all the more limited and shifting slow and drawn out. which is the norm.

use the gear ratios in conjunction with the final drive ratio to make a graph of the vehicle speed to rpms. find discreet speeds where there are 300 rpm differences. and then use post it notes to mark on the speedometer where those places are. if you cant do that, just secure a copy of a manual displaying a speed to rpm wrt gear graph. i know it sounds riduculous. on the track yo dont worry because you expect damage while full out. but you are on the road, you have to be gentle or incur the wrath of the mechanic touching your wallet.

in rpms and mph that formula is 6.51*k*V/r = Wrpm where k = gear ratio of chosen gear x final drive ratio, and r = radius (IN FEET) of your rear wheel(s).

the final equation to find those exact spots is V= (dW*r)/(k2-k1)6.51 where k2 is the effective gear ratio for the chosen lower gear to shift into. and k1 is the gear you inhabit before the shift. dW is the supposed blip you wish to use in rpm's.

there should be 4 of these spots for a 5 speed, and if you change the dW by 10% and recompute either way, you will get the range, the bands you will see.

the point is, you arent missing out if you arent using the tachometer. things happen too fast in shifting to rely on that. you rely on the speedometer and sure enough there are little 'bands' that if your needle rests inside of that band, it is safe to downshift with a known force of blip, most notably, for me on the streets, the softest one. its really just a soft stroke of the gas. it stands for about 300 rpms on a small tacoma.

the band for 5 to 4 is wide and very forgiving (it lies farthest out). 4 to 3 is a bit smaller and lies towards a lower speed. 3 to 2 is a little hitler mustache of a zone (probably near 20-30). Sooo small and all alone. 2nd to first is like splitting hairs, you do it with such gentleness and even then you get a slow kick in the butt. that sir, is a 2 mph wide zone somewhere inbetween 0 and 10mph.

the math is grueling if you dont make a graph of it, but with the post it note appliques you should be able to do very close to perfect downshifts even in tight and hairy traffic conditions where you kind of need it the most.

on the track its one size fits all and you follow by ear and you know in what gear each turn must be taken because things move too fast even to look at the speedometer.

Its ur lifters I have the.same.prob one of.ur.valves isn't getting that much oil

sounds as if you need lifters,you could change the oil and put a quart of marvel mystery it will help clean the carbon,if it seems better drive it for about 500 miles and do it again,then change oil every 3,000 miles,adding the marvel mystery each time,sounds like the oil hasn,t been changed properly

clap your hands. that's a sound.

You have either run something over or your car is due for a service

Worn, loose, or broken suspension parts. Have the suspension inspected by a professional. This can be a very dangerous situation, and I suggest you attend to this ASAP.

you probably need new shock absorbers or new coil springs.

you need to replace all 4 ball joints at about $20 a piece you'll probally be charged less than $125 to put them on. total$205. you will need a front end allingment after all front end work

Your brake pads might need to be replaced.

It is your throttle body valve sucking in air and fuel.

Could be a bomb but cant be sure without looking at it

Try balancing the tires,

Does your rotor squeek all the time, intermitantly, or only when braking? If the rotor squeeks all the time I would look at bearings or possibly something rubbing against the rotor. If it is intermitantly, it can be any number of things. Off the top of my head bearings going bad, shocks getting old and not traveling smoothly, something loose and a metal against metal rub, rotor out of true, need grease in tierod ends or ball joints, caliper hanging up. Squeeking when braking is usually no anti squeek or shims on disk brake pads. If you have not had your disc brakes checked in a while, your indicator may be squeeking to let you know your pads will need servicing soon. Have a certified mechanic take a look. Also the sound can travel such as your serpentine belt getting old and slipping. This will have the sound travel to the wheel well. You are driving along with the window open and swear that the sound is coming from the wheel well. Hope this helps G

Probably valve tappets/lifters/pushrods that have gummed up from dirty or overheated oil. Check the oil level and the color of the oil - when new it is gold colored, and when old it is black and sludgy.

If the engine is old and has not had oil changes at frequent intervals, there are additives available to correct the problem to some extent, ie, to get rid of the gummy sludge. Ask for advice at a reputable automotive store such as Canadian Tire, Napa or PartSource. Once the problem is corrected, be sure to change the engine oil at appropriate intervals.

With Coasting I presume the sound is coming from the engine yes?

If that is the case then the engine may be out of timing.

this is easily adjusted but i would still only recommend having this fixed by a qualified mechanic.

more details on the timing:

Every engine is carefully timed.

the knocking may be created by the piston hitting the closing or opening inlet/outlet valves on the way back up.

this can cause severe damage to the engine as the valves could potentially bore through the piston resulting in possible damage to the piston walls as it slowly starts grinding its way through the engine walls.

you may want to have this seen to.

there are over 1000 sounds in the world even in the whole universe

Depends on the amp. There are two different types. Theres one for your in car speakers and theres one for your sub. The small amps are to increase sound for the small speakers and the big amps are so you can have subwoofers and you can have lots of bass.

tumult

what a stupid question you have given no info about anything or what the car is and expect an answer go smoke another joint or something because this is a waste of time

first answer is just someone iggnorant the knocking could be your rear end going out caused by gears slipping if your brake pads are bad your calipers could knock and then so destroy your brake system if your car vibrates at high speed (60<) you could have a drive shaft issue which could cause wear on your rear end and could be causing the knock then again it could be the dead body you forgot to take out

nail in tire, or rock

Faulty wheel bearings usually squeak or squeal. A whining noise is more likely to come from a power steering pump low on fluid, or from a faulty alternator.

it depends on how big or small the vibration is to determine the sound. The bigger the vibration, the lower the sound is. the smaller the vibration, the higher the sound.

sounds like either your power steering is going out, or you are low on power steering fluid

After the bearing goes out while driving the wheels will lock up or may fly off the car even may melt to the wheel hub. It can also cause transmission problems meaning you wonÕt be able to drive the car after the bearing go out.