Car Sounds

Some are steel, some aluminum.

You might have a caliper "hanging up" a little and it's causing the disk brake pad to rub on the rotor. You can certainly have the problem taken care of at a brake shop. In GM vehicles and any other vehicle with a brake pad thickness sensor it can mean that your brakes are nearly worn out and need to be replaced.

maybe the carberator i dont know im not a machanic or anything

Probably strut mounts or control arm bushings.

for me it was a bearing that was going. unfortunately i did not find this out until it broke and took my engine with it. So i would have someone listen when you shut off the engine to see if you can pin point where it is coming from. Mine was the tensioner pully of the timing system. ANSWER for lindseycm:

my car does the same thing. ford dealership said it was a loose drive shaft and not worth fixing. I have a 99 zx2 that was doing the same thing. It drove me nuts. Turned out to be the crankcase breather filter, dealer only part, about 15 bucks. It is located on drivers side on top, near valve cover and air breather tube. Has two vaccuum lines hooked to it. Try disconnecting to see if noise stops. If the noise stops, replace it. Dealers don't normally stock this, so you may have to wait a day. Good luck.

I have a 2003 Mazda 6 with approx 80k miles. This noise confounded me for months. On ours, it showed up when pulling into or out of our driveway (forward or reverse, always with the wheels turned hard left).

It is NOT the CV joint in the axle. It is NOT anything rubbing in the fender well. It is NOT the wheel bearings. I finally found it after we had the brakes done.

After having the rotors turned and pads replaced, the noise went away for about a month. I thought we had licked it, but it came back.

Then I found it. There is a thin brass (or maybe copper??) bracket that fits between the brake shoes and the caliper assembly. Supposedly this absorbs vibration and prevents the caliper assembly from wearing out around the brake shoes. It is held in place by small tabs that are supposed to hug both sides of the caliper assembly. Those tabs are very weak and as the brake shoes wear out and move closer to the rotor, the bracket tends to move with them (instead of staying in place on the assembly). So you end up with the thin, brass plate scrubbing against the rotor just like the wear warning tab would (and makes the exact same noise). Since it is such a close clearance, you only hear the noise when the wheel is torqued, but it will get more common as the problem goes on.

The fix is easy. Remove the brake shoes, move the bracket back into it's correct place, and bend the retaining tabs back down. (While I had it apart, I went ahead and trimmed down the brass with a Dremmel so it would have more room to shift without rubbing the rotor.)

It seems that getting new pads does not fix the problem because you don't get a new bracket with the pads. You buy some time because the new pads are thicker, but the noise will come back as the pads wear down.

--

I honestly wouldn't know, but mine did the same thing then at about 30,000 miles it stopped and hasn't ever happened again, but use to do it all the time at about 20-28,000 miles wierd huh

You may have a broken cv joint i had the same problem in one of my old cars. behind the brake assembly theres a rubber boot with a rod coming out, if that boot tears and dust gets inside it ruins the ball bearing joint..

Check the condenser drain line. You will find that it is stopped up and water cannot drain out. Look under the car, usually on the passenger side near the firewall. Use a blunt tool like a pencil to unclog the line.

2

In my case, the coolant overflow line was clogged. It is in manifold underneath the radiator cap, where thin tube is connected. As secondary problem to it, the coolant was leaking from the cap because of over-pressure.

I Have a 99 Ford Explorer XLS 4X4 OHV and it does the same thing. I discovered that it is the Idle Air Control Valve(IAC) located under the intake manifold. You can try cleaning it first to see if that solves your problem, if not you can get a new one for about $45 to $50. Removal and installation are very easy once you locate it and identify it. Hope this helps anyone dealing with this annoying problem.

That will be something to do with your brakes on that wheel. You may have a stone wedged between the pad and the disc, or your pads are completely worn. Take the car to a brake specialist. If you are confident in removing the wheel safely, inspect the brake assembly once the wheel is removed. You should see a smooth disc and a pad/caliper assembly 'clamped' around the disc, like a hand holding a frizbee. Inspect the pad for anything obviously wrong.

What I did when the thin metal bands of my heat shields on my exhaust

broke is replace them with stainless steel worm and gear clamps

( so far I have replaced 5 of 6 clamps on my 1995 Ford EXPLORER exhaust )

Well it obviously means that you have crickets under your hood and you are hurting them. You probably should stop turning and just drive straight. But for real you should go get checked out or something cause that sounds like a personal problem.

Heat shield on catalytic converter? Loose shock or strut mount? Pebbles caught in hub cap? Lug bolt fell off in hub cap?

If it only happens when cornering the I would say that its a driveshaft - otherwise, more information is required I had the exact same problem. It turned out that on the inside of the left front wheel, the brake shoe pin on the bottom was locked. This made the brake shoe dig into the router. When the brakes were applied, the sound would subside because the brake shoe flattened out and went into a normal position. The answer is you need new brakes and routers.

Typically, it's either shocks or struts, depending on which your car has. Shocks/struts absorb the resonance energy of springs. The PURPOSE of the shock/strut is to stop the wheel from bouncing when you hit a bump. Without the shocks, the wheel would continue to bounce, sort of like a basketball. When the shocks work properly the wheel is "dampened", keeping the tire in contact with the road and giving better control. The bonus is, the car doesn't bounce, the way you're describing. The good news is, they're not terribly expensive and they're usually not impossible for the DIY'er. But if you prefer, it's not terribly expensive, as auto repairs go. If you have someone do the shocks, have them check other suspension components at the same time. No point in replacing just the shocks if the whole front end is worn out.

I have a 2000 with the same problem. It sounds like the 4-Hi is engaged, but its not. In searching for answers I found two possible, though I haven't tried them yet.

1. Change the fluid in the transfer case

2. Bad hub/bearing assembly.

I would say you either have a rod knocking or lifter knocking. I know in the 3.8 litre motors they are known to knock alittle when you cold start them. Most Grand Ams, Grand Prixs are like this. My sister has a 2002 Grand Am that does this and the noise goes away once it's warmed up. I would also double check and make sure your oil is full. get your car to a garage for a def solution.

I don't think anyone can answer this for you without seeing and hearing the jeep. Listen to it while it's running and try to locate the noise. Be careful because the exhaust is hot and the fan will be moving while on

You can lubricate struts but it is not necessary. It won't stop them from needing to be replaced for wear and tear.

The cracking noise is the tip of the whip breaking the sound barrier

If it's knocking when accelerating, the engine could be starving for the correct octane fuel ... try the mid-grade or premium fuel and see if it still occurs. Could also be that the timing belt needs to be adjusted/replaced.

If the knocking sounds like metal on metal, chances are you are in for a bigger bill for a possible engine rebuild. At any rate, have it checked out by a mechanic soon.

It depends on what you are grinding. I don't think that grinding coffee will make any one horny. How ever if you are locked in the heat of passion then the answer is yes.

The "tick" of the engine is caused by the pre-ignition in the chamber before it reaches the spark plug. Because the gas is combusting before it reaches the spark plugs, this is causing the "tick" noise. Recommend using a higher grade of fuel "mid-grade" Have you checked your oil lately? If not check it and if it is low add more and the ticking should go away. are you sure you are not hearing the normal noise of the fuel injectos doing their job? a properly-working fuel injector will make a clicking noise. Some times you can hear it while driving in a quiet place, or when the engine is running and you are under the hood. THAT is a normal sound. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info answer not pre-ignition. ticking sound is more likely to be a small exhaust manifold leak. or a sticky hydraulic lifter, an engine flush and oil change will fix it ANSWER FROM DAN

the ticking noise may be your lifters if you put new oil in and the ticking does not go away try tightening your lifters. you may want to take the car to a garage because you could wreck more than help if you over tighten. or don't fit gasket correctly.

Check the coolant system to make sure you are not low. An air bubble going through the heater core can make an odd sound.

There is no wheel barrel on any car. Do you mean wheel bearing? Newer cars have wheel hubs that contain the bearings. You change the whole wheel hub. Older cars had bearings you could change.

It sounds like you need either a flywheel or the bendix on the starter is worn out. Easy fix if it is starter.