Car Stalling Problems

Check the hood and radiator supports for a vacuum lines diagram.

The more you push on the accelerator the more you increase the fuel/air mixture to the engine which will cause the engine to turn more RPMs, thus propelling the vehicle at a faster speed.

Absolutely.

it could be out of gas.

i had a similar problem and it was the air hose had a crack... you cvouldnt see it but if you covered it up it worked fine. if you dont want to buy a new one test it out and wrap it in electrical tape or duct tape... which is still holding my car together. lol. good luck

When you are stalling you MUST say hello to the world!

thats your knock sensor

ESC is Electronic Spark Control which governs timing.

If you mean it feels like it's losing horse pwr, then you may get lucky and all you have to do is check and service your transmission fluid.

Going up a hill requires just a little more fuel. If the fuel filter is partially blocked you might not be able to get that extra when you need it. If you haven't changed the filter for a while, I'd try that. It can also be spark plugs but you would notice that any time you stepped on the gas hard.

check your distibutor for a loose pick up. alot off time vehicle will run fine but loss of power under load

If the timing is set correctly then you should check your catalytic converter. When the cat gets partially clogged the car will lose power only when going up hill. ( example: you are going 55 mph at the bottom of the hill by the time the car gets to the top you are going 45 mph. ) check manifold vacuum, if at 2000 rpm vacuum starts to go down to lower than 17hg then you should have the converter checked by a muffler shop.

Also this could be caused by the mass air flow sensor. I was having the same issue with my 98 jimmy. I bought some maf cleaner and havn't had the problem since.

It is possible your cam is starting to go bad too. A pain I know but that is the symptom I had right before mine failed in my 1995 Voyager. About two months later it would not start at all until I replaced the cam. There is no guarantee I'm right just an extreme possibility

In the fuel tank

The reason why the truck moved is bescuae it has more torque. That is basically the amount of power an engine produces without the accelerator being pressed. The cars engine was unable to produce the amount of torque to move it's entire weight. There is all kinds of science behind it, and my science I am telling you probably isn't completely accurate, but knowing it will not be extremely helpful. I had the same problem you did. To overcome it, what I did was (if your on level ground) take my foot of the brake and apply to the gas so the RPM of the engine rose a hundred or two. Then you gradually take the clutch out until it is moving. If you are on an incline, it is even more difficult. You need to push the gas more, even for the truck if it is really steep. Good luck!

Contaminated gas or the wrong type of fuel for the vehicle.

In automatic gearboxes these solenoids change gears for you.

It helps the car to down-shift, while at the same time keeping the desired level of torque as well as speed.

Carb.? bad needle seat valve? Float needs adjustment?

Check your spark plus first; it could be a miss fire. If not, check your ignition coils. Pull them off and put them back on the engine. It should rev up when you put them on, If one doesn't, that is your bad one. If they rev up, iit could be a vacuum leak. Spray starter fluid in your intake. If the engine revs up, you have a vacuum leak. It could also be a MAf sensor that goes next to your intake filter. It is the size of your intake pipe so you can miss it; unplug it and drive the car. I if it does not make a difference do a difference it is not the sensor.

The crank sensor is located on the top of the bell housing-=although its difficult to see--and looks down onto the top of the flywheel--it is actually in a bit of a niche-so a bit tricky to get a socket on --or your hands in--and its on the "backside "of the engine--best to look for the wire to it and trace it with that--to get to it requires--or it did in my case--a 2.0 petrol one--spending 5 minutes removing the air filter box first--I still got torn to pieces as its awkward rather than difficult --hope this helps

Check fuel filter.and air filter then timing make sure tune up is up to date.

could be ecm or has anyone thought of catalytic converter being plugged. That cause loss of horse power and really hard to get speed up. Check your distributor with the cap off and see if it wiggles bad. Look under the cap at the cap and see if it is wearing out on one side

Overheated engines often cause the head to warp, resulting in a blown headgasket. If the engine blows out the coolant, you have a bad head gasket/warped head. If you're getting coolant in the oil, same thing. If one or two cylinders have very low compression, same thing.

It's not news that anyone wants to hear, but I'd check that first since it's a very common condition after an engine overheats.

Right now I'm trying to figure out the same thing. All I know is that my friend Josh said that when he went out riding and ran out of gas in his ZR2 Blazer, he put the mixed gas into his tank and didn't have any problems. But I don't know if I'm willing to bet a new motor on it!!!

ID-ten-T error.

A lot of new cars have throttle bodies (air control butterfly valves) that are opened and closed by a small electric motor instead of a cable connected to the foot pedal like older cars. After a battery goes dead, this motor needs to "find" where it is so it can be adjusted by the engine's computer. My 2005 Subaru just had this problem... and after some searching on the internet I found the solution. Many other manufactuer's cars have this same problem. After changing the battery, turn the ignition switch on for 10 seconds berfore turning over the engine. This gives the electrical motor time to go to home position. After 10 seconds start the engine, let the engine idle with NO LOAD (AC, lights etc.) for 10 minutes so the computer can adjust the engine settings to optimum position. This solved my problem on my Subaru for $0 and I am so glad a Subaru technician took the time to post the answer. Even if you have a new battery installed already, just disconnect the negative cable, wait 5 minutes and start over as I described above. I'm just trying to pass on the knowledge since it sure isn't being comunicated by the auto manufacturers. Good Luck!