Car Stalling Problems

I know that the 93 3.3 V6 Skylark I have was stalling and hesitating, After replacing alot of other parts it ended up being the Idle air control valve. It's just two bolts and any decent autoparts store stocks them. You could even just clean the old valve and bowl assembly up with some spray carb cleaner. Remember to clean the bowl out before you put the new one in or it will stick too. The carbon really builds up on them and causes them to stick. (bad design)

ok, I'm answering my own question, I think. The clicking is coming from a relay that is supposed to shut everything down in case of a problem that could damage electrical components like the ECM. I tried removing the main ground from the battery/block/body and cleaned it. So far, for a couple of days, no clicking of relay and/or cutting out or stalling. As for the small wire going to what looks like some sort of sensor, WHO KNOWS. I repaired it and it seemed to make no difference. Anyone else know more or have electrical knowledge more than my simple trial and error style, please respond to correct or congratulate me. Thanks

If the check engine light is on you can go to almost any parts store and they will hook a code scanner to it, which will tell them what's wrong. if the car doesn't have a computer or the light isn't on you will have to go to a mechanic.

toyota mr 2

The 2 most likely causes that come to mind are 1: Faulty idle control valve or 2: Faulty camshaft position sensor.

Does the car start up from cold ok? Or do you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it dying on you? If that's the case, it's probably the idle control valve.

Is the engine light on? And does the engine sometimes hesitate and splutter even when you are giving it some gas? If so, get the fault code read. It's probably a faulty sensor. In my case, a crankshaft position sensor. Hope this helps!

A tune up usually solves the problem. We've had the same problems with a Chevy Suburban and a Ford Taurus. The spark plugs were replaced, some stock parts in the Ford were also replaced, but ultimately certain parts in the engine needed to be flushed and cleaned. Also, the vehicle may be overheating. Check the radiator / Cooling system is working properly.

if you got an automatic depending on what gear it is you may need a 2800 or 3500 rpm stall in your torque converter call a transmission shop if that's it they will help you

Could be cam sensor, crank sensor, throttle position sensor, mass airflow sensor or the magnet on the crank. We just replaced all of the above and found out the hard way it was the last...and cheapest. Pull the cam sensor, look at the end of your cam and see if the magnet is damaged.

probably not. The alternator generates DC voltage when the engine is turning at an rpm slightly above an idle. You might have a problem with fuel system, such as a clogged fuel filter, which will allow fuel to seep slowly through, but will not allow enough to pass to keep the engine running.

A coil that is not functioning.

Because when you fill up the tank there is a evap system which takes the fumes from then tank and runs it through the engine and burns them if the valve is bad in the take it will let you overfill the tank which will saturate the canister and when you start the car the computer thinks it is still sucking in fumes when its not and is making the car run rich will or can cause it to run sluggish or stall when not on the throttle the only way to fix this is to buy a new gas tank or you can just not fill the tank all the way (i have the same problem and i just dont fill mine all the way its cheaper)

-This sensor is usually a coiled winding of very thin wire with a very thin insulator that is constantly being exposed to varying magnetic field as electrical current flows through it. This causes the metal to change molecularly and eventually it can cause a wire break (open circuit).

-Exposed to head and vibration the extremely thin coating of insulation on the tightly wound coil of wire can break down causing an internal electrical short.

-Cylindrically shaped cam sensors can be crushed as corrosion developes in the bore the sensor is inserted into. Also, installed height may be incorrect and can cause rubbing.

-Flat cam sensors can have a gasket leak. Not knowing how to obtain a new gasket otherwise, a mechanic may decide to sell you a new sensor (which comes with a gasket.)

-Most cam sensors pick up from a spinning toothed wheel. If this wheel becomes damaged or moves, it may impact the sensor destroying the sensor in the process.

-Some cam sensors pick up from a moving magnet which disintegrates after long term exposure to engine oils. A bad or missing magnet is often misdiagnosed as a bad sensor.

-Many cam sensors are part of a (functional or vestigial) distributor. These are a special case with all kinds of wonderful stuff that can happen requiring replacement of the unit for repair.

There is a pull lever behind the drivers seat

It all depends on HOW it goes bad. If it blocks the outflow of exhaust gas, then the distance you can drive before it begins to decrease power will become shorter and shorter until you will have trouble getting out of your driveway.

If it blows through, then you can drive indefinitely (or until the next state inspection).

Fuel filter clogged, water or other impurities in tank/system. Distributor parts damaged or damp. Faulty emission system components. Faulty spark plugs/wires. Vacuum leak in fuel injection system/intake manifold or vacuum hoses. =========================================================== Very common problem with the 2.2/2.5 engines are the hall effect pickup in the distributor. It costs about $30. Many 2.2/2.5l cars sit in junk yards because people get sick of it stalling and figure its time to be put to pasture when its a simple part that takes 3 minutes to replace. Other things I would be checking would be fuel pump, which can also cause an intermittent stalling issue. ~Technologic80

There is an elecrical short in your system that occurs when your vehicle gets hot. You need to check to see if you don't have fuel, check pressure. Or if you don't have spark. If you don't have fuel, it will most likely be your fuel pump. If you don't have spark, it could be, your ignition module, a coil pack or your crankshaft sensor.

What car is it? what year? is it a diesel or petrol? could be you r base idle?? but need know more info..... does it stall in drive with foot on brake? does it rev high?my car is a 07 Chevrolet Colorado,standar

passenger side is bank 1 the closest to the engine is sensor 1 of the 2 on each side

If this is a manual shift transmission, the arrow means it is time to shift up a gear. This is there to help you get the best gas mileage.

Fuel starvation. If car won't idle, idle jet (carb) or throttle-body/mas (inj)

NO!

Depends on your definition of safe?

could be several things. If it just shuts off with out starving for fuel (acts like you turned it off with the key)could be an electrical problem. If it has points I would check the wires from the coil to be sure they are good and have clean connection. You should also check your ground wires and your ignition switch.

If the car is starving for fuel it will feel just like you ran out of gas, bucking.

It should be on the transmission by the passenger side of car. It has three wires connected to it.

Throttle actuator control position sensor....it's a small piece that goes in front of the engine.....cost about $110......must have Allen star key to take out if you're going to do it yourself.

I would suspect a defective Torque Converter Lock-up Solenoid. Disconnect the solenoid to test to see if it is bad. It the problem goes away with the solenoid disconnected, it is bad and needs replacing.