Car Starting Problems

it could be alot of different things, bud. my 89 is doing the same thing and i still haven't figured it out. they say its either the module, or ignition coil. the fuel pump could be bad. a vacuum line could be bad. or there could just be a bad relay.

It cAn be 1 of many things blown fuse from the batery to the fuse box could also be ur alternator did ur lights turn off or are they still on

My Car did the same thing and at times it would not start, turned out to be my starter was going bad it will cost about 180.00 for a new one and that does not included labor

On the 99 LHS the the battery cables often need to be replaced. Try tightening your cables if it doesn't start. Also if you turn your key forward wait a about a minute then crank the engine, if it starts, its your cables. Replace your cables first before you spend the money on a new starter.

iT would be hard. Exhaust pipes are filled with black film dust smog which is very dirty and smlley. If you wore a gas mask and heavy duty gloves it may make the job easier. See your Jeep manual, it will tell you steps A-Z on how to remove it.

Could be a smart lock issue. Check interior light and make sure it is working,check fuse as well.... smartlock shuts off fuel and spark. Then check coil ( very hard to get to) if is smart lock go onto EBAY and buy a smartlock bypass module and get rid of the prolem for ever.... that's what i did no problems since.

An excellent truck.

I believe there are 2 sparkplugs per cylinder on that motor, and two sets of distribution units and spark plug wires. I had constant difficulty with my own ranger's electrical system due to moisture buildup in the cap discharge units. If one goes out if affects the other. It is likely that these will need to be replaced - you can find them easily at a junkyard.

Follow the spark plug wires back to the other end, where they connect ( on the passenger side of the engine) is the unit I am talking about. It is also possible the spark plug wire is broken.

I can answer that a little. Moisture in the gas tank combines with the petrol/gasoline and causes the wax build-up. The wax is really only petroleum jelly - from the word petrol, really! It can be found naturally coming out of the ground at oil drilling sites. Oil field workers scrape the stuff off of the drilling pipes and use it to treat small cuts and bruises ..... and, obviously, Pharmacists have found a way to package it and charge us for what is essentially a waste by-product. Always keep your gas tank filled up, as aircraft pilots are taught to do, and don't leave a tank of gas un-used for months at a time, to avoid the moisture in the air from gelling with the gas and becoming a potential hazard.

It may need spark plugs/wires. And while you're at it, run a compression test. If the compression is low in one or more cylinders it will make those cylinders less likely to operate properly.

Check the ignition switch itself, sounds like it may be the problem.

The van runs well for about 6miles about 15mins. Once warmed up it splutters and stalls. I will wait for about 3 mins before the engine will re-start. The engine will run for a few more miles and will splutter and stall again.

I am having this same problem. I will give a definitive answer once I've had my car looked at but I'm confident that the problem lies within either the starter or the solenoid. Strangely enough, if I bang the starter and solenoid with a hammer a few times the car will start right up. I think the gear inside the starter is jamming and the hammer helps to free it up.

Starter motor, Flat battery or bad earth cables are the prime suspects

You oil will get dirtier and dirtier, the filter will clog and the engine will start the wear. Eventually the engine will develop sludge and in the end the engine will not last very long. I would suspect a brand new engine that you kept driving and never changed the oil might last 50,000 miles at the outside before having major internal problems.

Check your netural safety switch. Losated on either the lower steering colum inside the car, or ont the transmission where the shift cable connects. The previous owner may have removed the bulb or it's blown.

The red one ( bigger post ) is positive, the other one goes to a grounded point.

i believe you are asking about the turbo blow off valve. if so, if you don't have a oil catch can and your PVC valve still dumps into the intake line, it is common because when you turn of the car the oil filled air settles on the inside on the intake pipe, so when you pull of the filter you can see it pooling up at the lowest point in the intake tube. the idle could be a broken vacuum line, throttle advance popped out of its place. if you have your injectors to small for the turbo then it will die due to lack of air fuel ratio and so on.

Start with the basics. Is the battery fully charged? Are the battery post clean and tight. If you answer yes to both of these and the engine will not turn over and you hear nothing, suspect the starter, starter solenoid, or ignition switch is defective.

* check for spark it might not be getting fire to the spark plugs if there is no spark the ignition coil pack might be bad

Apparently with a lot of difficulty. Mine went yesterday and the RAC guy told me it involves removal of the drive shaft, meaning all the oil will pour out. Not something he was willing to do. Why did I get a Megane?

I dont know. My 2004 silverado same problem .It began after key fob had low battery.I temporary remedy by removing battery from bob to reboot.

If you car dies once your remove the jumper cables, it is most likely an alternator problem. Take your car to AutoZone or somewhere similar and they will test it for you. It could be that there is not enough charge in the battery to sustain the alternator. Try keeping the engine round 1500 revs while taking the jumper cables off.

I would suspect a loose or corroded battery cable. Remove the negative - cable first and clean both cable connection and the battery posts. Hook the positive + cable back up first. Can also be a starter solenoid going bad.

You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.

fuel pump, timing belt, air intake (sensor), fuse, distributor...

polar car starter programing