Car Starting Problems

battery cables could be corroded, check distributor , spark plugs, ignition wires from switch. try jumping the solenoid if it tries to crank the ignition switch may be out. if it's cranking and not starting also check your fuel lines make sure they are nor clogged if dual tanks check tank switch under driver side. may not be getting fuel if crb float is stuck as well. if it was dual tank and one tank removed make sure switch is on the right tank.

could be distributor, coil or ignition module. usually the ignition modules fail first on them.

I'd try a Hane's manual first. It would be the cheapest way to go. As a side note, if there are vacuum lines disconnected, it's possible that it was done to fool an emissions test to get it to pass. If you need to pass another emissions test, you might want to disconnect them again before the test (or spend the thousands of dollars replacing parts trying to get the truck to pass).

please answer my question. Ford truck 1999 V8 4.6 L does not start of park but in neutral sometimes Why.

If you hear a clicking sound when you turn your key, or it starts some of the time but not all the time, probably a starter issue. Best to take off the starter and have your local parts store test it.

Chances are the starter bearings are shot, time for a new or reman starter.

polar car starter programing

They make keys, change locks, and that sort of thing.

That's normal, It's a 6 volt... If it's tuned good it will fire up, I'm amazed mine starts cranking so slow

If it is too slow in time it will turn over slowly. Have the timing checked.

Backfiring is usually an indication of a lean condition. When it does it during cranking, it's probably timing related.

If the starter is engaging and the starter is able to turn the engine normally, there is nothing wrong with the solenoid.

Instead, I'd look at fuel, ignition and compression.

Of course you can. It would be worthless if you could not recharge the batteries.

At the risk of sounding sarcastic, what do you think? You need a new battery every 100 miles?

It could be the starter solenoid

My car is the same model and it's doing the same exact thing right now. When i turn it over, the electronics click off..You can take the battery terminals off and put them back on and the electronics will come back on, and occasionally it will turn over but will never crank. Once, I put a fresh battery on it and it cranked right up and ran fine, but when I turned it off and tried it again, it would not start...Have you resolved your problems yet? I had a mechanic look at it and he's saying the fuel pump which I am gonna replace this week, although I still wonder why the electronics would kick off when I try to start it? Maybe the battery has a low charge..Good Luck.

Need more info. But, there is a possibly that if there is any water in the gas tank, it will freeze up the fuel pick up. Use the proper fuel de-icer in the fuel tank and check it out. In the mean time, really need more info. What kind of car and engine Etc..

Do you mean that the interior lights dim, when the ignition key is turned?

This usually indicates a dead or discharged battery.

Batteries can be notoriously temperamental at this time of year, the temperature of the electrolyte is critical to their function. A cold or chilled battery, will not provide as much power as a warmer battery.

Checking items such as Drivebelt Tension, Electrolyte levels, terminal cleanliness and security, are more important at this time of year, when temperatures are low.

Initially, you should try recharging the battery, using a battery charger, preferably indoors where the battery can warm up quicker. Normally Trickle-charging the battery for about an hour or two, should be sufficient to start most cars. Although if you have an old battery, it may be better to replace it.

**IMPORTANT**

Always check and balance the electrolyte levels BEFORE charging, otherwise the battery can be damaged.

Hi, either you get it all reset, or you can get a code to bypass the immobilser. Its put in via the door lock thing on the dash and you count the immobilizer light flashes. You can buy the code from Renault, or you can get a small programme off the net which will get the code for you, I did this and it worked fine, and there is no limit to how many times you can use the code.

Depends on what you need to adjust. Air/fuel are on front of carb low on right and left, basic start point from seated is 3 turns out. The idle screw is located inside throttle linkage on right side. Fast idle is under choke coil on left(hard to get to). Secondary tensioner is located left upper,back corner. Allen set screw aimed down, loosten 1/2 - 3/4 turn and use sm. screwdriver on side- R+ L-.

sounds like it is a problem with the starter, which could also be caused by other problems. Have it properly diagnosed by a Ford Factory Trained Technician and any Ford Dealership.

first

make sure the battery is charged completely. My car does this when my battery is low. all the electronics may still work at that low charge but it is not enough for the starter to turn over the engine.

after the antifreeze is gone the car will have trouble starting due to the lake of antifreeze witch is needed to help it cool down ur car is still over heated

your car wont start because you probally blew a head gasket and (possibly warped the head) have water and oil mixing

It doesn't matter whether you're jump starting a Van, pickup truck or an economy car, always use cables with the largest possible COPPER wire, 00 gauge or larger.

Smaller cables will often provide enough of a boost to help a battery that's just a little low, but the larger cables work best for the more severe situations.

If it's about engines it's short for carburetor, the thing that mixes fuel and air into something that can be ignited by the engine. If it's about food then it's short for carbohydrates, which is one of the types of nutrients that we need.

Then why did you replace a perfectly good starter?

ALWAYS test old parts and know what you're doing BEFORE you start throwing new parts at a problem.

Find out WHY it isn't starting.

Does the starter engage and turn the engine? IF it does, then the starter is probably fine. If not, check the starter, battery, electrical connections, ignition switch and neutral safety switch.

If the starter has ALWAYS engaged and turned the engine, you should not have changed the starter in the first place; instead, you should be finding out what's wrong.

Typically it's a sticking injector. If it runs, try putting some injector cleaner in your next tank of fuel.

Also, if the air filter is plugged the engine may not be getting enough air.

Your timing belt has probably worn out, or broken, and has jumped timing.

If your battery is old, it could be the cause of the problem. The starter takes a lot of current to crank an engine. The fact that lights are working doesnt' give much info as to the state of the battery. Try blowing the horn, which takes more current, and see if that works OK. If it is weak, it is probably a battery problem. Try to jumper your battery from another car and see if that helps. If that doesn't help, it is likely a starter problem.