Check Engine Light

PO442 Emissions Control Leak (small) Error code can be caused by one of the following: 1. Defective or loose fuel cap 2. EVAP canister or hose cracked- not connected 3. Purge or vent solenoid defective 4. Vaccum leak at engine
PO442 Emissions Control Leak (small) Error code can be caused by one of the following: 1. Defective or loose fuel cap 2. EVAP canister or hose cracked- not connected 3. Purge or vent solenoid defective 4. Vaccum leak at engine

P1700....Malfunction Indicator Lamp requested by trans control module

On my 1999 Chev Suburban the answer is the fuel filter. It appears when going uphill and trying to give it a lot of gas the engine is not get enough and misfires. I replace the fuel filter and the light goes away. It comes back after a while and I just change the fuel filter. I have 227,000 miles on my suburban

Problem with one or more of the components in the emission system

Have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Repair the problem.

here comes the bubble buster,,, YOU DONT

it sounds to me that your truck jumped time which means you could have a bad timing chain it also depends on how many miles the truck has and has it ever been replaced b-4 but i would say you need to replace the timing chain.

the service engine light can come on for a number of reasons. mainly something has failed, or fallen out of normal perameters. Most local parts stores, Autozone, Advance auto, Checker, offer free computer scans. 90% of the time the clerk can tell you exactly what you need, and how to fix the problem. the other 10% of the time its out of their hands, or beyond their knowledge. if the clerk does not give you a good enough answer, repost a question with the engine code or codes that the scanner picked up.

WOW old school polution control.

When in decell on old school cars with Carborators specifically the fuel air mixture goes way rich and very small charges so the engine can't burn it properly.

To burn the left over fuel extra air is put into the exhaust manifold and this causes an after burn of the inside the manifold.

While some fuel injected cars were equiped with technology, fuel injection caused the end of the use of this junk. They shut the fuel off completely above 1100 to 1500 rpm removing the need.

The cheapest route is to go to take it to a transmission shop or dealer and have the shift solonoid replaced. The shift solenoid is an internal transmission part, so the transmission has to come out for the repair. So unless you've got mad mechanical skills, this isn't something you want to tackle yourself. This repair will run (in my city) from $500 to $1000.

Wrong! 1994 -1996 Lexus ES300 1-2 shift solenoids are replaced by moving the transmission pan. You do not need to remove the transmission! 1 and 2 are wired together. You should replace the filter and the gasket since you have the pan cover removed. And unless you want to get bent over, don't take it to a local transmission shop or dealer. Find a mechanic who has transmission experience if you want to save at least half.

The check engine light has nothing to do with the washer fluid. If the check engine light is on you need to have it checked for codes with a scanner.

Oxygen Sensor. Also, you might need software upgrade for "Cold' morning starts.

Same problem I had when I bought "Iris" one and a half years ago,

LOVE GREG

The early models need to be done on an OBDII machine.

Tha later models by:

1. Get in your car and shut the door.

2. Put your key in the ignition

3. Turn your ignition key to position 1

4. Push in your Odometer reset button and hold it in while holding it move the ignition key to position 2 while holding down the odometer reset button.

5. After couple of seconds of holding the button down and the key in position 2 your service light will start to blink once that happens let go of the reset button and start the car.

The statement above is for resetting the service light only. The 1999 and new cars are network cars that require volvo software to reset the light. You can on certain models 99 and newer to get generic "P" codes as a readout. These codes 99 percent of the time coincide with Volvos 3 and 4 digit codes.

Take it down to AutoZone or other parts store. Have them pull the codes...they'll do it for free. This will give you a place to start. They can tell you what the codes mean.

Some of the auto parts retailers around the country will let you borrow a code scanner in the hopes that you will buy necessary parts from them. You can't really test/reset the OBD system without the code scanner. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or

Most oxygen sensor trouble codes are just the beginning. In My experience fuel control components are at fault. (Mass Air Flow [MAF] sensor uses air flow through it to meter fuel or if you have a Manifold Air pressure [MAP] sensor it uses a vacuum signal to meter the fuel) Generally MAF's are just filthy or tired with possibly excessive resistance (in the wiring) built up from coroded connections or bad connectors, the increased resistance in the sensor circuits will give the ECU out of limit readings which cripple fuel mileage and engine power.

If you have a MAP sensor, possible vauum leaks, as well as increased resistance in the circuit (wiring) and malfunctioning fuel injectors are a common cause for trouble codes from the oxygen sensors. Unfortunately I am not familiar with what type sensor is on your vehicle at this time but figured I'd get you started.

MAF's are constanly flowing air thru them so dirt and corrosion are the culprits here. Spray cleaners are available at part stores but the sensor must be removed from the intake air duct to clean it and not contaminate the air intake with dirt particles which will wreak havoc on your cylinder walls and cause oil consumption.

Some MAF's can be disassembled and the filament like diode looking doo hickeys can be cleaned with alcohol and a Qtip instead of removing the whole thing but not all sensors are the same some are impossible to disassemble without damage. Also, be careful with the skinny wires they are very delicate and bend very easily but if bent its not fatal unless you try too hard to make it perfect again. slight bends wont affect the sensor. Breaking the skinny wires is fatal. 2 TO 4 special security torx drive screws will have to be removed, believe or not these tools are available at most lowbudget Chinese tool carrying retailers. I bought a whole set w/ a driver at Big Lots on the road one time. $2 bucks cheap cheap cheaper than a new sensor at $150.00 plus labor , time, on, and on.

Manifold Air Pressure Sensors (MAP)

MAP's are solid state if its not an obvious wiring problem or vacuum leak or a blockage in the vacuum line. Take it off and stroll down to part store and have it tested. Take your vin nummber with you for proper engine id, they only need one number usually the 8th number or letter counting from left to right. Once it tests good now you can work backwards and check the wiring and connectors for continuity.If the MAP tests bad well there you are.

Whichever Sensor you have the first trouble codes are from the O2 sensors telling you that the fuel mixture is either too rich or too lean. Generally if the code is too rich the MAP or MAF is literally malfunctioning i.e. internally shorted somehow or the TPS (throttle Position sensor)is stuck or dead. but if the code is for a lean condition it can mean that the sensors are having trouble giving a proper reading to the ECU because of the above mentioned causes for each type sensor.

Last but not least are the fuel injectors. When everthing else checks ok these guys are usually the missing link. One injector malfunctioning will give the impression that everything else is wrong. They are the real workhorses of the engine. With the high fuel pressure outputs and the frequency of firing they work pretty hard, the problem is that they are electronic hydraulic cylinders that work off low voltages, so excessive variances in electrical resistance causes them to malfunction and ECU gives off only oxygen sensor codes until they are very bad or just die. Depending on how advanced your ECU's diagnostic abilities are: the codes will appear for high or low voltage signals that are out of range coming from either the right bank of injectors or the left bank, from there, the injectors should be tested idividually to find the bad one. This can be difficult since actual specifications and equipment testing injectors can be hard to find but most franchise part stores can test them.

I hope this wasnt too much info at helps you diagnose whats really going on.

Have the system checked for codes. You will then know possible causes.

Have the system checked for codes. You will then know possible causes.

How do you clear code?

First step is to have the code read by a reader. Whatever the code refers to needs attention.

Try removing the negative terminal from the battery, waiting 10 minutes and putting it back on - see if it goes away. If it stays on, or reappears later, you have an issue somewhere.

Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10+ minutes usually resets the Service Engine Soon" light. Please note that it will reset everything else electrical in your car as well (e.g.- radio and clock). If the light reappears shortly after reconnecting and restarting the vehicle you will need to get the code read and go from there. If nothing noticable most likely an O2 sensor.

You can also pull the the fuse/breaker marked PCM/IGN from the electrical center under the hood. The box is on the passenger side under a marked plastic cover between the edge of the fender and the diagonal strut/support.

With the ignition turned off, remove the 15 amp "stop" fuse located in the fuse box in the car to the left of where the drivers foot is when sitting in the drivers seat. Remove the fuse for a minute and then reinstall the fuse.

You can also remove the negative battery cable for a minute or two, but you will then have to reset the time and radio stations on your radio.

Answer

There are three ways to shut off the 'check engine light' discount battery (not recommended), use a scan tool and delete code, or wait 40 to 80 key cycles depending what the code was set for. Now, if you dicount the battery for around 5 minutes the check engine light will come off, BUT all memory will be lost. Therefore the vehicle would have to "re learn" new criteria/values. Oh yeah! It will come back on as soon as the symptoms are seen again + you won't pass emssions. A scan tool is a decent way (only if vehicle was fixed), BUT when you delete a code you erase freeze frame data and of course the code itself making it harder for the next tech to fix the problem. Finally, the best way is key cycles AKA warm up cycles. If the car is properly repaired after 40 (type B misfire) or 80 (type A misfire) if the PCM doesn't see the problem occur it will automatically erase the code. Hope that helps out and sorry for being a smart A$$..

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

Usually a problem in the emission control system-have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

Pre 1996 is OBD1, that is correct however there are various OBD1 hand held devices for checking the trouble codes for the 1993 Ford Probe GT.

The least expensive one is the INNOVA 3143 and as each model advances in price a more comprehensive and detailed result is obtained.

Many auto parts stores carry the handheld scanners, prices may vary. Check the INNOVA site online by typing in INNOVA hand held scanners.

The trouble codes can be obtained by finding the EEC connector under the hood, the 93 Ford Probe is on the driver side near the fuse/relay block.