Check Engine Light

I am having a similar problem! I have a 2000 stratus and had the water pump replaced and it idles low. In the mornings (when it is cold) it buckles like it wants to die out, and doesn't change gears smoothly... kind of drags. Just yesterday morning it did the samething, but this time it felt like it was going to just burn out (think of driving a stick shift for the first time) and the check engine light went on. It did this three times that morning, and the check engine light went away as soon as the car stablized. I brought it to AAMCO and they can not find anything wrong with it. I brought it to a different mechanic and they can not find anything wrong either! It's driving me nuts. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 99 DODGE STRATUS, THE TIMING IS STILL OFF A LITTLE BIT. I TOOK IT TWO TECH. AND THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT IS BUT WHEN I WANT TOOK IT TO THE DEALSHIPS THEY SAID IT TIMIMG WAS STILL OFF!!!!

Depending on the mileage and mainytenance of the engine, you MAY be looking at an engine overhaul. First off, have you checked the OIL LEVEL? make sure it is full. If it is, you may have a failign oil pump issue. The oil pump is in the oil pan at the bottom of the engine and pumps oil throughout the engine. If the oil pump fails totally your engine will eventually seize becasue there is no lubrication between the metal parts. Not good. Now if your oil pump is working properly and you are experiencing low oil pressure readings, then likely the bearing passages on the crank are worn and you are looing at an engine overhaul. If the oil and oil filter in your S10 has NOT been changed regularly, then dirty oil has been recirculating throughout your engine causing premature wear on the bearings and pistons as well as valve train. This is why it is important to perform routine maintenance on oil changes. So...check the oil level and make sure it is full. Then......you can find where the oil pressure sensor is on your engine and hook another oil pressure gauge to it and see what that gauge is reading. If it reads low also, then you are looking at an overhaul. You can add a heavier weight oil to increase some oil pressure but that really doesn't cure the problem. You're using an oil that's too thin. The engine needs a heavier oil to maintain oil pressure as the bearing clearances get a little older. If you've been using a 5W15 oil, change to a 10W30 or even a 15W40. Try going up to the next heavier oil to see if that helps. If that doesn't do it, go higher again. It could be the oil pressure switch, they are very cheap and made of plastic, prone to failure. If you are sure you have proper oil pressure in the engine but the gauge on the dash says it's low, the first thing I would suspect is that switch.

If no lights are coming on the dashboard and depending on the vibrations. Could be a motor mount.

I think it has to do with a loose/defective radiator cap. Also, I think only the dealership can turn that light off ... unless someone out there knows how to reset it. My radiator cap had a bad gasket. The engine overheated and the cap blew. In two days (when I finally make it back to civilization) I will know more.

It is very unlikely to be a loose/defective radiator cap. VSC / TRAC issues are most likely to be related to a brake sensor on one or more of the wheels. On my 2003 Sequoia, I can cause this condition at will, simply by braking so hard that I trigger the anti-lock brakes. Because I have a bad wheel sensor on one of the wheels, that will cause the TRAC to trip off, and turns on the VSC Trac Light and the Check Engine light. I can disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes, and it will go away, never to return until the next time I brake extra hard and the anti-locks go on again. I know I could have the wheel sensor replaced, but I just never seem to get the time. Or money.

It's the icon / graphic of a an engine, upper right hand area of the instrument panel.

this answer is out of the haynes code book. code 35 idle air control valve or cicuit. Or idle speed control switch or circuit(shorted). good luck

One tip on the Idle Air system on GM's - some need to have a special reset on that part to clear the code. On the 1980-1990's GM's the procedure was to drive the car at a speed exceeding 50 mph for a minimum of five minutes, continuous. You will need to make sure the car stays above 50 for the full five minutes. Make sure to find a nice stretch of open highway where the legal speed will let you do this. This will cause the computer to push the idle air system wide open, then fully closed, to check it over the whole range. After this you can clear the codes and the code should not come back.

If it does, cleaning of the intake may help, since dirt in the passages can affect this system also.

The computer has picked up on a problem in the engine that needs your attention. Could be bad could be just attention is needed. You need to check the code to be sure. If you go to the local parts store they will probably check the code for free and tell you what it is. Then gladly sell you the part that can fix it.

Reading the codes requires a scan tool.

Code P1299: Cylinder Head Over Temperature Protection Active Indicates an engine overheat condition was detected by the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor. An FMEM Strategy called Fail-safe Cooling was activated to cool the engine. Engine cooling system concerns

Low engine coolant level

Base engine concerns

With a scan tool.

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes.

Unhook the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect it. It will clear all codes until the problem reoccurs when you start the engine.

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.

The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

have vehicle scanned to determine problem

Your vehicle is trying to tell you that there is a problem that needs attention. If you do not have a reader to check your own codes, then you should take your vehicle to a mechanic to have it looked at. Ignoring the issue can potentially cause more issues that could be more costly.

What did the check engine light codes say was bad?

I just came in from the cold, fixing the same problem you are talking about (P0113). My 3.4L V6 01 Alero was hard shifting with the Service Engine light on. The Diagnostic Trouble Code was P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circut, High Input. The Trouble Code P1111 is a similar problem: Intake Air Temperature sensor circut intermittent high voltage. Hoping for the easy fix I bought and installed a new IAT sensor (AKA: Air Charge Sensor) at AutoZone for $13.99, but it didn't help anything.

The problem was the wiring leading to the sensor had broken. The IAT sensor shares the same 5V reference voltage with the Coolant Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor. When the wire broke at the IAT Sensor, the TPS signal got messed up telling the computer to up the transmission pressure to "protect" the transmission. (Even though it felt like it was destroying the transmission shifting that hard)

The solution to the problem was to order a new IAT Sensor connector pigtail, GM Part #12102620/ AC Delco Part #PT307/ PICO Part #5616. I found mine at bmotorsports.com for under $8.00 after shipping. Stagger your cuts on the pigtail wires, heat shrink both butt connectors, and re-apply some electrical tape and you'll be back to smooth shifting in no-time!

Ignition control signal high volt

An auto parts store can turn it off for you.

the Link Integrity Test is operational

go to autozone to ask to check your codes

A flashing "check engine" light indicates that you're having a serious problem with one or more of the EFI circuits. You need to connect it to a diagnostic code reader to find out what's wrong. I suggest a visit to your local auto parts retailer where you can usually borrow, rent or buy a code scanner that will work with your vehicle.

When it's flashing there is often a potential that something serious is going on that can even cause permanent damage to the engine.

Yes, the Traction Control System (TCS) light has nothing to do with emissions.

I have the same problem.... I had a friend that put it on a computer (they only cost around $50) and it told me that I had misfires in 5 of the cylinders which means I need a tune up.... Once I get the tune up I will let you know if they come back. i just replaced my trans on my acura tl type s , and what ur saying is exactly what happ to me my vsa light came on then my check engine light then my car was acting crazy n i needed a turq converter my transmission filter was clogging cause my 3rd gear was breaking down

the vehicle is equipped with daytime running lights a safety feature that most vehicles have not alot can be done unless you want to tear the drivers dash apart to take the sensor out that is located near the vin plate in the dash

YOUR MOM

The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

A misfire and low compression on the same cylinder are indications of an internal engine problem. You need to do a cylinder leakage test. That is where you set cylinder at top dead center with the valves closed and apply air pressure down the plug hole and see where it leaks out. If it leaks out the exhaust pipe the exhaust valve is bad etc.... If you haven't performed this particular maneuver before, and don't know the potential problems, you need to be VERY careful. When you add compressed air the engine will turn and if you have anything resting on the serpentine belt or any other moving part, it could get caught and cause damage. Low compression can also be the result of "blow-by" (caused by worn or sticking rings) or by a leaking head gasket (caused by a warped head when the engine overheated).