Check Engine Light

Solenoid sticking

No Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Failure

Go to where the dash board is and you will find a nob that you can push that will show you different settings. Keep pushing until you see settings. Push in and hold the knob,twist the knob until you will see "Warnings" highlighted, push in the knob to select "Warnings" and from there you will be able to turn off the warning for the temperature gauge.

if it is effecting all the gauges, check for a loose, freyed or broken ground wire.

No, it is not a bad or loose gas cap. It is a problem with the secondary air pump.

FLASHING CEL - Park the car and TOW it to the repair place

STEADY ON CEL - Drive it to the shop at your own timing.

Most likely...

The Millenias and their Commonwealth cousins the "Xedos" all suffered a common defect resulting in MOST CEL issues. This engine configuration typically results in the need for replacement of 1 to 2 O2 sensors and / or the DREADED KNOCK Sensor embedded deep in the Manifold assembly. Mine ran 3 years with this CEL on due to the cost of labour one item to replace. The sensor was only 165 bucks while the labour to install was nearly 800.

I will admit once it was replaced I was not only legal again for the Emmissions test, but the thing ran smoother than it ever did ina ll seasons PLUS I got nearly 2 points to my highway Mileage.

Now the codes are confusing on this because two of the O2 sensors share the same circuit and the code wont necessarily identify WHICH o2 is actually bad, that unfortunately is hit or miss. The KNOCK sensor code is separate and distinct however but all will result in a costly set of repairs.

Good Luck

WRONG. WRONG. 2 sensors share the same circuit? where do you get this from? i am looking at the wiring diagram, and there is no such thing. each sensor is on it's own circuit. labor is 800? man, that shop must love you. a generic sensor will cost about 30 bucks. with the proper tools, a post cat sensor will take about 30 minutes to change. on a 2.3, the left bank pre cat sensor is easy, but you have to remove a lot of stuff to get at it, especially the connector. right bank is about 30 min, too. for 165 each, and 800 for labor, i would change all 4 sensors, all the brakes, oil and filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, coolant, rotate all the tires, and buy a steak dinner for the customer, all in about 6 hours, with a nap in between

O2 sensor circuit malfunction, Bank 1 sensor 2.

Check the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter.

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

The most common problem on "Engine light" on the dash board means it's time to change your O2 sensor. the "check engine" light is an indication that there is a problem with the computer controlled and or monitored emissions systems. oxygen sensors are just one thing that could be wrong when the light goes on. a tester is connected which tells the technician where the problem is.

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There are pages and pages and items that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked for codes with a scan tool. After repair light can be shut off with scan tool.

EGR flow insufficient.

If it is to get it inspected... Unplug the battery... Then drive for 100 to 150 miles... Get inspected then, codes should be off..

It means exactly what is says. Cylinder # 1 is misfiring and not firing all the time. New spark plugs and wires should solve the problem.

water could cause a service engine light to come on, for example, ignition systems are sensitive to moisture and could cause a misfire and turn the light on. You need to find out what code the computer has set. Some auto parts stores have scan tools to loan.

I am having a similar problem! I have a 2000 stratus and had the water pump replaced and it idles low. In the mornings (when it is cold) it buckles like it wants to die out, and doesn't change gears smoothly... kind of drags. Just yesterday morning it did the samething, but this time it felt like it was going to just burn out (think of driving a stick shift for the first time) and the check engine light went on. It did this three times that morning, and the check engine light went away as soon as the car stablized. I brought it to AAMCO and they can not find anything wrong with it. I brought it to a different mechanic and they can not find anything wrong either! It's driving me nuts. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 99 DODGE STRATUS, THE TIMING IS STILL OFF A LITTLE BIT. I TOOK IT TWO TECH. AND THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHAT IT IS BUT WHEN I WANT TOOK IT TO THE DEALSHIPS THEY SAID IT TIMIMG WAS STILL OFF!!!!

Depending on the mileage and mainytenance of the engine, you MAY be looking at an engine overhaul. First off, have you checked the OIL LEVEL? make sure it is full. If it is, you may have a failign oil pump issue. The oil pump is in the oil pan at the bottom of the engine and pumps oil throughout the engine. If the oil pump fails totally your engine will eventually seize becasue there is no lubrication between the metal parts. Not good. Now if your oil pump is working properly and you are experiencing low oil pressure readings, then likely the bearing passages on the crank are worn and you are looing at an engine overhaul. If the oil and oil filter in your S10 has NOT been changed regularly, then dirty oil has been recirculating throughout your engine causing premature wear on the bearings and pistons as well as valve train. This is why it is important to perform routine maintenance on oil changes. So...check the oil level and make sure it is full. Then......you can find where the oil pressure sensor is on your engine and hook another oil pressure gauge to it and see what that gauge is reading. If it reads low also, then you are looking at an overhaul. You can add a heavier weight oil to increase some oil pressure but that really doesn't cure the problem. You're using an oil that's too thin. The engine needs a heavier oil to maintain oil pressure as the bearing clearances get a little older. If you've been using a 5W15 oil, change to a 10W30 or even a 15W40. Try going up to the next heavier oil to see if that helps. If that doesn't do it, go higher again. It could be the oil pressure switch, they are very cheap and made of plastic, prone to failure. If you are sure you have proper oil pressure in the engine but the gauge on the dash says it's low, the first thing I would suspect is that switch.

If no lights are coming on the dashboard and depending on the vibrations. Could be a motor mount.

I think it has to do with a loose/defective radiator cap. Also, I think only the dealership can turn that light off ... unless someone out there knows how to reset it. My radiator cap had a bad gasket. The engine overheated and the cap blew. In two days (when I finally make it back to civilization) I will know more.

It is very unlikely to be a loose/defective radiator cap. VSC / TRAC issues are most likely to be related to a brake sensor on one or more of the wheels. On my 2003 Sequoia, I can cause this condition at will, simply by braking so hard that I trigger the anti-lock brakes. Because I have a bad wheel sensor on one of the wheels, that will cause the TRAC to trip off, and turns on the VSC Trac Light and the Check Engine light. I can disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes, and it will go away, never to return until the next time I brake extra hard and the anti-locks go on again. I know I could have the wheel sensor replaced, but I just never seem to get the time. Or money.

It's the icon / graphic of a an engine, upper right hand area of the instrument panel.

this answer is out of the haynes code book. code 35 idle air control valve or cicuit. Or idle speed control switch or circuit(shorted). good luck

One tip on the Idle Air system on GM's - some need to have a special reset on that part to clear the code. On the 1980-1990's GM's the procedure was to drive the car at a speed exceeding 50 mph for a minimum of five minutes, continuous. You will need to make sure the car stays above 50 for the full five minutes. Make sure to find a nice stretch of open highway where the legal speed will let you do this. This will cause the computer to push the idle air system wide open, then fully closed, to check it over the whole range. After this you can clear the codes and the code should not come back.

If it does, cleaning of the intake may help, since dirt in the passages can affect this system also.

The computer has picked up on a problem in the engine that needs your attention. Could be bad could be just attention is needed. You need to check the code to be sure. If you go to the local parts store they will probably check the code for free and tell you what it is. Then gladly sell you the part that can fix it.

Reading the codes requires a scan tool.

Code P1299: Cylinder Head Over Temperature Protection Active Indicates an engine overheat condition was detected by the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor. An FMEM Strategy called Fail-safe Cooling was activated to cool the engine. Engine cooling system concerns

Low engine coolant level

Base engine concerns