Check Engine Light

I have an 88 Ford Taurus L wagon and something like this is happening to me. The transmission is slipping in and out of overdrive and when it does the "check engine" like goes on briefly. I still have to have it looked at so I don't know about the code. But, my car did not just quit working right away. By the way, this problem just started last week and it does appear to be getting worse.

Disconnect the red battery wire then reconnect it.

Trouble code P0420 means: Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 1)

When the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on, it means something wrong was detected, either with emissions or performance. When this happens, the computer will have a diagnostic code in memory that can be retrieved with an OBDII scanner. Auto Zone will scan and retrieve the diagnostic codes free of charge.

Code 1618 indicates a failur in communications between the Engine Control Processor and the Automatic Trans-Axle Processor. The ECM / PCM stores the trouble info as freeze frame and the "Check Engine Lanp(MIL) will light. The MIL will be turned OFF after 3 on the 3rd trip cycle if the foult is no longer present. The freeze frame info will clear after 40 consecutive worm-up cycles have occurred wthout a foult.

Have it checked for trouble codes. You will then know what to diagnose. Check coolant level as well, look at the recovery tank to see if your level is up. ANOTHER THOUGHT Also, when you check the trouble codes, if nothing shows up you might want to put a volt meter on the battery. If the alternator can't keep up with the power that the blower is using you MIGHT be dropping below what the computer wants to see. Use a volt meter and check if the voltage drops below 13.5 VDC when the heater is turned on. You'll need to give the engine a little throttle, bring it up to around 1500 to 2000 RPM when you check the voltage level. If it's not maintaining voltage, it's probably the alternator. Have it checked by a reputable auto parts retailer such as Checker or Auto Zone.

after 1994 all cars sold in America had to be OBD 11 compliant which means you need to have the code reader plugged in and read the code or codes causing the light to be on. gas cap will do that. then simply erase the codes from the ecm. good news here is alot of auto parts places have the code reader and will do it free. autozone and orielly's are 2 that i know of here. good luck.. fyi i purchased a code reader from harbor freight tools for $35 dollars. everyone wants to use it now.

It could be a "slight" problem with the electronic sensors. If a "check engine" light is on, the computer has detected a problem with the sensors. You need to use a code scanner to detect the fault code.

buenas tarde

tengo un problema , tengo una captiva y me aparece estos codigos p0008 y p0017 , quiero saber que problema tiene mi vehiculo , gracias

It sounds like something in the traction control system is malfunctioning. There should be a way to shut it off manually. Check your owners manual for how to do that and see if the light persists. Probably should get it checked out anyway.

Bulb may be blown or has been removed.

I'M HAVING A STARTING PROBLEM. I HAVE GAS, AT LEAST A HALF TANK. BUT THE GAUGE

READS ZERO. TRUCK TRYS TO START WITH STARING FLUID BUT FUEL DOES NOT SEEM TO BE GETTING TO INJECTORS. i WAS WONDERING IF IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP OR THE FUEL SENDING UNIT?

It is a vapor leak in the fuel system. Starting in 1996 vehicles check for leaks down to .020 inch.

Check engine light can literally point to hundreds of things. The only right way to find out is to take it to someone with electronic diagnostics.

Disconnect your battery, and leave it disconnected for at least 24 hours. The battery backup on the computer will die after 24 hours, at that point, the service engine indicator is reset.

If your car has less that 150,000 miles on it, you are still covered under warrantee and can take it up with Honda at their cost. This is because of a settlement between Honda and the feds for a faulty ECU in 1997's. Honda's deal was to extend the emissions components warrantee out to 150,000 miles.

It does not matter who makes the plugs, if the light is still on after reseting the computer it usually means something else is wrong. sometimes an actual computer scanner is required to reset. check autozone, they do it for free.

check engine light. it means you should eather check your "codes" or go to an auto shop and tell them your check engine light is on. sometimes its free.

The check engine light comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.

MAKE CERTAIN that that is all that it is and not signalling the failure of some vehicle system! If it is TRULY the 'check engine' light it is probably signalling that you've gone past the recommended mileage for an oil change.

You need a code reader to plug in to diagnostic port and erase it. 97 is around the cut off though, not sure if you need OBDI or II. Most shops can do this for you, just make sure the reason it was on is fixed, otherwise it comes back on in 25 miles after a reset.

First P0301 relates to a problem with Cylinder 1 (301, 301=cyl2 303=cyl3 304=cyl4)P0301 can be caused by many of the items identified in the books and on the web. Items such as spart plugs, spark plug wire, Coil tower and/or related ECM. cylinder compression, IntakTPS, MAF, fuel enjector and related intakcomponents, and EGR and items related toexhaust. It is a good idea, regardless of what I'm about to tell you below, to check and make sure everything I mentioned above is in good working order. After spending hours (about 7)assuring the above and ending up very frustratedbecause P0301 reappeared after a few short rides,later that night I got back on the web/internet to search for something new. I came across an append that talked about P0301 and this poor fellow also had4 or 5 other codes. I almost skipped overreading this one because Iassumed there were to many problems and I did not want to chase any more false leads. Being desperate, I read on.In the middle of his append he talked about using a spray product like PB Blaster and spraying it on the intake manifold gasket. If there was a leak the idle/RPMs would change. Becausemy car was running fine (except for the P0301 code) I assumed it couldn't be this, and I read on. Ithen though, wait a minute. This is avery simple test to perform (less than 5 minutes) what the hell, let's do it. Guess what... The idleincreasedabout 300 RPMs then. I repeted the test (sprayed several times) and the idle increased each time I sprayed around Cyl 1 area of the intake gasket. This was the first positive indication of a real problem I found. It took about45 minutestoseperate (not remove) the intake manifold from the cylinder head and sure enough the gasket had a major brake (about 1/8") atCYL 1 intake. I went to my local Advanced Auto, ordereda new gasket and the nextmorning installed it (being very sure to first snug downthe intake nuts and thentorque them downto 14 "inch" pounds in rotation starting from the center and working my way towords both ends. When this was done. P0301 went away andnow (about a month later) the car is running excellent. I drive itevery day and have taken it on one trip of 250 miles out and back (500 miles). So be sureEVERYTING mentioned is in goodorder but BE VERY SURE you don't overlook vacume leaks at the INTAKE MANAFOLD GASKET. It's a simple 5 minute test.

Oh my Gosh how vague can you be? Gas cap evap hose O2 sensor fuel problem