Chevy Astro

It turns out the problem was that a couple of bulbs on the left side were burned out (front left turn signal, one of the rear turn signal/brake light bulbs.) After replacing the rear bulbs, the signal would work, albeit slowly. Once I pulled the front left turn bulb (with the intent of replacing it the next day), the turn signal light went steady-on regardless even without moving the signal indicator arm. That problem also went away when the remaining bad bulb was replaced.

Who knows? Typically engine life is more a function of oil volume rather than pressure, but oil volume is difficult to measure. The oil pressure on these trucks goes up and down as you drive. At idle it can get frighteningly low after the engine has some miles on it. I use a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer to replace one quart of oil at oil change. This seems to help all the way around. My 98 has 275,000 miles.

You should be able to pull off the horn button in the middle. There might be a wire going from the button to a hole in the steering wheel, just push in and rotate to remove it. There should be a clip that you pry off. You can the use a steering wheel remover to pull off the wheel.

The 1994 Chevy Astro EXT van has 4 bolts behind the steering wheel/airbag/horn assembly to remove the horn/airbag assembly.

Top rear of the engine next to the distributor.

what are the wires for on the rear hatch door hydraulic pumps

If a vehicle won't start when it rains or is very wet, it is a clear sign that the ignition wire insulation is old and tired. As a test, you can spray the wires and distributor with silicone spray or WD40. These drive off the water and the engine should start. If I spray wd40 on how long do I wait before I try to start the vehicle

Fuel or air filter clogged Bad fuel pump (in tank) Car needs a tune up, plugs and wires. Bad coil packs. Bad engine to body ground bad battery or battery connection Bad ignition switch Good luck.

rear drivers side engine block

Go to your local parts store and ask them for a Haynes repair manual for the year and type of your vehicle. It costs around $17.00, and although it is not the best, there is enough info in there to get your stereo wiring figured out. Chiltons also makes manuals, plus there is always the dealer. Sometimes even the dealer will print out a page of schematics for you. It just depends on their generosity.

the pump is located inside the fule tank drop the tank remove the float and gage unit replace pump I just replaced mine and it was easy. It takes longer to remove the gas than to drop the tank! Two bolts on the drivers side of the tank will drop the straps. Some WD-40 will help on a van that old, mine is a '88. The rest should be self explanitory. Don't forget the in-line fule filter located underneith near the driver side door.

# Remove the negative lead from your battery # Drain the tank (siphon or pump out) # disconnect fuel lines (requires a special tool to make it easy) This tool (actually a set because there are three different sized fuel lines) can be purchased for not too much money at a local parts house. # Disconnect the filler hose # Support the tank and then unbolt the tank straps # lower the tank # disconnect the electrical connections to the pump assembly # pull tank out from under van # remove old fuel pump assembly...there are several methods that GM has used to hold the pump assembly in. Most common is a rotating locking collar. It can be easily moved with a "BRASS" punch. WARNING!! Do not use a tool that will spark when tapped with a hammer...thus BRASS is a necessity. # install new pump and reverse removal procedure # after completion, contemplate the reason you took on such a major job...this is one that I have decided not to do again...a shop can do it in a half a day...it took me a lot longer and required me to purchase stuff I'll probably never use again.

Chevrolet Astro Van 2WD
4.3 liter V-6

There is no ABS relay on a Chevy 2002 Astro Van. If the ABS light is on it is indicating a problem with the vehicle that should be checked out.

700-R4

# With the door open, apply a piece of duct tape to the outer surface of the window, run it up and over the top of the door and apply it to the inside surface of the window. This will hold the window in place while the regulator is being swapped. # Remove the window and lock control portion of the armrest by pulling up on it. Disconnect the cables. # Remove the two screws holding the panel to the door. # Lift the door panel up, then out slightly. # Disconnect the courtesy light bulb and finsih removing the panel. # Remove the bolt holding the door operating handle. Slide the handle forward to remove it. However, leave it connected to the lock mechanism. # Pull the plastic sheeting off, leaving the door operating rod through it. Slide it to the side. # Loosen the two bolts, one per side, that clamp the regulator to the window. # Both of these bolts may not be visible, depending on where in its travel the regulator failed. You may have to get creative and/or stuggle a bit here by adjusting the duct tape and reconnecting the window switch to adjust the height of the window until both bolts can be loosened. (Often a failed regulator can still be operated if a lot of the load is removed from it. You may need a helper to lift the window while you operate the switch to move it up and down to access the clamp bolts.) End by lifting the window to its highest point and retaping it in place. # Remove the six bolts (three per side) holding the two regulator rails to the door. # Disconnect the motor wires. # Remove the regulator assembly. You'll have to slide the parts of it around and angle them out of the door. # Installation is the reverse of removal. However, here are some tips to make it a little easier. # Remove the courtesy light housing and manual lock switch from the door panel prior to putting it back on the door. These are dealt with much easier individually than attempting to keep them wired/aligned while lining up the door panel tabs and sliding it into place.

Like if you going to change brakes on the van...you will see like a small box that looks like a relay and its pointing to like a gear around the shaft that's your sensor...signal will be sent off speed car is going to determine your brake force

For the US; the last declared war was WW2 in 1945. The last Limited War was Vietnam in 1975. Since that time there have been military operations: 1. Operation Urgent Fury-Grenada (1983) 2. Operation Just Cause-Panama (1989) 3. Operation Desert Storm-Iraq (January and Febuary 1991) 4. Operation Restore Hope-Somalia (1993) 5. Operations in Europe-Bosnia (1990's) 6. Operation Enduring Freedom-Afghanistan (2001-present) 7. Operation Iraqi Freedom-Iraq (2003-present)

The fuel pump for all Astros is IN the fuel tank. You will have to safely drain the tank to get at the pump. Replace the level sensor at the same time.

Fuel pumps on Astros are in the gas tank. You have to drop the tank to change them.

i have a 2003 chev astro van and need to replace the blower fan

if it has a 22re engine, low coolant could be the culprit. a bad head gasket (which actually also causes low coolant) could be the problem too. This model year Supra came with a 5M-GE engine and the idle hunt is most likely an air intake leak. check for air leaks from the air filter box all the way to the throttle. you need to check all the joints in that air duct. if air is getting pulled into that duct, the map sensor info to the ecu will be wrong and the computer will try to adjust the engine idle. found 5 holes in my air duct and car wouldn't even idle till it was fixed

165432 is the firing order for the 4.3 L engine

no its not. idlecontrol valve controls idle mass meter measures air flow into itake

All Chevrolet "V" style engines I have worked on have had the oil presure sensor/switchs behind the distributor, at the back of the motor, or rarely, just above the oil filter, left (drivers) side, towards the back of the engine block.