Chevy Blazer S-10

Call your local parts store and they will be happy to give you the answer.

Not too familiar with your particualr vehicle, but I will try to offer a few suggestions. Some vehicles come with overdrive switches in the cab that allow you to shut the overdrive off. These can short out. Your tranny might also have a selenoid that's going bad or perhaps you just need to flush the tranny out.

there is small circuit board mounted on wiper motor. Circuit board available at Chevy Dealers or IWI motor parts. No need to remove motor but micro stubby screw drivers needed to remove and replace. worked great.

Is this the front assembly or the rear? I can't say for sure on the rear, but on the front, you will need a very large socket for the nut at the outside of the hub assembly. I don't recall for sure, but I think it's like 30mm. Check before you buy a socket for it, as they are expensive. Also, you may want to have a pickle fork to break the ball joints loose up front. Aside from the large nut at the outside of the hub assembly, the largest wrench you will need is 19mm. If you can find a Chiltons manual for a Saturn SL, it will walk you through the entire process of removal and re-assembly.

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Found this link to change a Saturn S-Series front hub. It worked perfectly as all the pictures were extremely helpful. I actually pressed new bearings into to the existing hubs which is not recommended by Saturn but worked out OK for me.

http://www.xwarlordx.com/twin_cam/tech.html

check fuses to see if any are broken and replace with proper amp

Behind / below the glove compartment area inside a plastic case . You can

see where the heater hoses connect to the heater core at the firewall in the

engine compartment

Had mine installed a few months ago and it cost me around $500. I think labor was about $150-200 so the pump itself is probably around $200-$350.

In the fuel tank

Bad coil?

check ground first

ok on the s 10 blazer you wil first have to disconect the neg batt. cable from batt. then if you have a 4x4 you will have to remove the skid plate then the cross member. then the starter brace and shield if ya have one then you should see 2 bolts. clean wires that are attached to starter make note where they were. tape the ones that are one each post that go together then remove wires. then remove the 2 bolts tghat hold the starter to eng. note if you are going to all this trouble it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the main wire to the starter.

make sure you have the starter tested before getting a new one i had the same trouble on my blazer i replaced every thing i could think of i had to have it towed to a shop and the found out it was the wiring harness that runs under the washer fulid tank it was bad they told me it was a bad design on the maker of the s 10

on mine i replaced the batt. the starter the the nutral safety switch the batt cables pos and neg. hope this helps if you need any more help you can email me at braddonovan29@yahoo.com i have the total break douwn book on that tat blazer. i sold my blazer but i still have the book you can get one from a auto parts store. for about 15 bucks.

You probably don't need to change the pins, just the bushings (unless you let the bushings wear through to the pins). If you need to replace the pins (or bushings), first you need a stool or crate (to set the door on) or someone to help you, since the door is surprisingly heavy. Next, hammer a tap (or a Flathead screwdriver) onto the bottom of the pin until it is free (falls out). You may need a Flathead screwdriver or chisel to pry the bushings out of the hole Replace the pin and bushings. Check the pins for wear, and if there is none, put them back. It seems like an ordeal, but it is actually pretty mechanical and simple.

Probably a brake light switch problem. May be able to adjust, or may need to replace.

I just replaced the brake light switch in my 1998 Mazda Protege LX and the problem came back. I believe the cruise control could be shorting out the brake light switch.

The ground wire of the coil. Its the white wire with a black stripe.

Whats wrong with posting an engine size? lol Engine Firing order Distributor rotation #1 plug location

V6 (3.8) 165432 Clockwise Left front

305/350 18436572 Clockwise Left front

400/403 18436572 Counter clockwise Left front

I'm looking at a Volvo service manual-the main lighting relay for post-1985 models appears to be located to the left of the steering column, under the far left heater vents for the driver's window. it next to the rear fog lamp relay, so it is on the right (closest to passenger side.) you probably just need to take out the cloth piece that covers all the electrical stuff under the dashboard/steering column to get at it. remember, there are two relays right next to each other-the headlight relay is the one closest to the passenger side.

41 to 47 psi.

4 and 1/2 qts with filter change.

I have the same problem right now with my 2001 Malibu and I was told that when the ABS light came on, that the front wheel bearing are bad and need to be replaced. I live in Chicago and I was quoted a price of $300 because there is a ABS sensor on the wheel bearings.

Check the coolant system to make sure you are not low. An air bubble going through the heater core can make an odd sound.

This sounds like a bad alternator or bad electrical connection to the alternator. First check your battery voltage with the engine at idle. It should be about 13.6v-14.2v. All the idiot lights get their ground through the "battery" failure light. That is often caused by a bad connection of the small red wire at the back of the alternator. Most likely brushes are worn down on your voltage regulator. Replace it, fairly easy job, two screws hold it attached to the alternator. It is located next to the oil filter.

you are either low on brake fluid, the Ebrake switch is on or you have air in your brake lines. try lifting the ebrake and see if the light gets brighter. If it does, try unpluging the wire that goes to the brake master cylinder. If this don't work then i recomend taking it to a shop to have it looked at! Good Luck... Michael

on my 97 es300 the brake light was staying on because ebrake inside of back rotor was worn all the way down and system was sensing this.

It depends on where you get it. You can often get an engine for anywhere from $1,000.00 U.S. to $2,000.000 U.S. or as little as $500.00 if you buy a used engine at a wrecking yard, plus labor to replace and peripherals such as water pump, thermostat, hoses, plugs, wires, oil filter and anything else that you might want to replace at the time. However, a replacement engine gives you a vehicle that will be quite reliable for years to come.

More Info:

It sounds like there is water rushing back and forth under the drivers seat to under the gas pedal. The floor board is wet under the pedals. I can't see where there might be water stored. We just had a good amount of rain and this problem started right afterwards.

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The water may be trapped inside the driver's door. All vehicles have drain holes at the bottom of the doors to drain water. These holes in most cases are very small. An accumulation of crud can plug those drain holes. You can drill a few 1/4" holes at the lowest point under the door to let it drain or you can disassemble the door panel and clean it out.

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There's no water in the door. I just checked. It sounds like it's in the frame of the vehicle running underneath the drivers seat from behind it to almost the front left wheel well. I can hear it slosh around if I'm moving and I hit the brakes. Or when I'm stopped and I accelerate. Very weird.. It's been 4 days since it's rained and I can still hear it inside the floor pretty much.