Chevy Blazer

I would pull the door panel off and then actuate the lock; chances are you just have some linkage that is binding within the door. I hope this helps you. Mark

Could be a problem inside the steering column

4l60e

Change your fuel filter, it sounds like it is running out of gas. If that doesn't do the trick then check your fuel pump.

It's lean. Best to check the carb and all vacuum lines for leaks and blockage.

Depending on what year, and possible model, it could be a little or a lot different. I have a 2005 Equinox LT. If you take a flat screw driver and pry it up under the plastic below the shifter, there is a series of clips that hold the console surrond on.

Once you get it off you need to put the key into the ignition and turn to the run (not start the car, but just before you crank the engine). This is so you can place the car in drive, but please put the emergency brake on just in case. now you can take the clip out where the windows plug in where you pried up and a couple other clips for the other console functions. Here you need and socket set to take out the four screws holding it in. then slide the unit towards you and there is 2 or 3 plugs into the back. The antenna is kinda wierd looking like it hsouldn't come out, but just give it a good yank. And there you go, just go backwards to install. (I know, I went backwards) If you are having trouble getting a CD player to work that wasn't original to the car, then you probably need an unlcok code that a Chevy dealer can give you with a receipt for it or maybe it is broken. Good luck.

there is no fuel reset button . there is a fuse in engine compartment against the fire wall in the center next to relays with a plastic water proof cover over it possible under the plastic dress up cover that covers the harness (if it wasnt already removed and tossed away )

I have a 1999 Blazer and I was looking for the radiator drain plug as well yesterday. mine appears to be broken but it is located on the passenger side of the radiator near the bottom edgeon the engine side you might have a small black rubber hose coming of of the area of the drain I think this is supposed to make collection of the coolant easier. The drain is plastic and should look kind of like a wing nut. You also get the best access to it from inside the wheel well by moving out of your way a rubber skirt. Its still not easy there is not much room. I have read others have just removed the lower hose to drain the system. I know that makes a real mess.

1. Turn wheels all the way to the right.

2. Lift rubber flap inside passenger side (right side) wheel well to access white plastic drain cock

3. Place 1/4" drive rachet into end of drain cock and rotate 90 degrees (1/4 turn) counter clockwise

4. Remove rachet and pull white plastic drain cock outwards (towards firewall) to release coolant

Good Luck.

TWO.

Check the CV Boot

Probably idle control sosonoid located on the throtle body. Take it off and clean it and where it mounts. Also cleqan the inside of the throtle body where the throtle plate is as a carrbon ring forms there.

1. With the car in park, turn the key to the on position. Turn off your stereo, fan, etc. All your dash lights should be on. The warning lights will all turn off, except the security light left blinking.

2. Leave the car in the on position for 10-15 minutes. Come back and the light should now be off.

3. Turn the key to the off position for 10 seconds, then start your car no problem:)

If this doesn't work, you may need to repeat the above steps two (2) more times to reset the module. If this doesn't work, you need a new PassLock module (around $400 from what I've read).

One wire, and it's purple.

You probably should have a professional do that, it is not an easy job, they are under the upper intake plenum.

4-5 quarts

Well??? DO you owe a late charge from the month before? IF NOT, call a local attorney ASAP for state/case specific advice. Very Simple. Tote-a-note car dealers make GOOD money by repoing cars ASAP when late.

First you need to get the right tools for the job and the right parts to fix the problem.There is a hinge pin in both the upper and lower hinges and four brass bushings and there is two different size bushings in each hinge and also two hinge pin retaining washers.as for the tools you need a spring compressor,jack,hammer,punch. First open the door all the way,put jack under door,I like to use a 2by4 board on top of the jack to help spread the weight of the door out a little,next if the door has a wireing harness in the jamp loosen the rubber insulation form both the door and the body this gives a couble of inches of slack in the wireing.Next use the spring compressor to remove the spring,then use the punch and hammer to drive out the pins.it is very hard to get them to move an first but gets easyer as they start to move.I would recomend having a helper to hold the door upright as it will fall when the pin is removed from the hinge.Onece the pins are out move the door and jack away from the body to gain more axcess room the replace the bushings,two in the door side and two in the body side,then slide door and jack back and align hinge holes and install new pins. I allways grease the bushing and pins before installing.Drive the new pins all the way flush with the hinge and install the retainers.Reinstall the spring and reattach the wireing insulation.

Sounds like the timing is not right, Could have the distributor in wrong. You may even have the plug wires in the wrong place. If you don't find your problem in this area then you will need to ask your question again. Thank you. NEUTZ

If you look at your Distributor, you will see a 4-wire connector on the left side of it.

unplug the connector. and then look at the connector end that comes from the

distributor it will have letters wrote on it. Find the letters A and C Now make you up

a little short wire with ends on it that will hook to the small A and C pins and hook the A and C pins together so the jumper wire don't fall out. THATS IT.

Don't worry about the other end of the connector. just tie it back out of the way.

NEUTZ

It varies at the part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local garages for estimates.

It takes approximately 0.8 hours to replace the charger. Ask around for hourly charges... most garages charge about $65 an hour, so it would come out to about $52 +the part. Ask at a local parts store how difficult it would be to do it yourself. It is usually "plug-and-play", I've done older cars often. The part is guaranteed, too! It is a great first job for learning, and will give you confidence, at least for older cars. Check with the store, and read the relevant page(s) in a Chilton Manual at your library.

It is easy to replace the mirror. First lift the door handle on the inside and remove the screw behind the handle. Second remove the door pannel. There is pop in fastners holding the door on. If any fall out when you remove the door pannel just slide them back in there slots when you put it back on. Next remove the rubber grommets covering the access to the bolts holding the mirror on. Use a 10mm socket to remove the mirror. If you have power / heated mirror just unplug the old mirror and when you go to install the new one run the wires back the same way the old ones were. Installing the new one is doing what you did to take the old on off in reverse. Take your time and pay attention to how you took it apart and putting everything back together will be easy. One las tip. If you have power windows, when you remove the door pannel unhook the power window control so the door panel isn't hanging. There is a chance you can damage the wires and the switch pannel by letting it hang, you can also scratch the door pannel if you drag it on the ground opening and closing the door.

Don't do that!It's a major mistake to do that!The airbag is a safety device.

41 to 47 psi.

No!! The way I did it was have the rad support off & use an impact gun to get the main center bolt off, then use a ratchet to get the smaller bolts out of the tight spaces. You do however need to have the engine on an engine hoist in order to get them off & patience to get them bolted back on (granted I used cheap Lordco ones & you get what you pay for - still work great but I had to cut out some excess rubber & bang it into shape a little)

Dont use barsleak use a chemical called therma weld it work perfect for me its about 300$ and worth it!!!!