Chevy Blazer

A couple thoughts, wheel hub/bearing assembly binding up, soft or not matching front tire, stuck brake caliper, collasped brake hose or damaged brake line.

you just pull the three bolts holding the valve cover down. the bolts run right down the middle of the valve covers. pull the valve cover off, replace the old gasket with the new one and tighten the valve covers back on.

You should have 11 or 12 fins on your fanblade. someone may have been careless and put a non ac fanblade on it after an accident. also make sure fan clutch is good. you should hear the fan when you give it gas if the temp is up

get under the car and cut a blue wire if u wanna steal it i woould ent listen to me coz i have no idia

there are 3 O2 sensors on the 4.3 Vortec V6 Blazer ( I have a 99 as well) 1 is on each exhaust downpipe forward of the catalytic converter, the 3rd is just aft of the converter.

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idle air control motor

where is it located

I wish someone told me this last year. I took mine in and it cost 400 clams to get done but the job they did was easy and shotty. Honestly I could have done it myself easily!

On the passenger side of your blazer under the hood, on the fire wall is the motor, (looks like a soup can sized circle sticking out attached to about a 8-10 inch plate). It's covered in a large plastic housing that is very difficult to remove. The dealers spec answer to this is cut it out with a dremel and simply replace the motor and glue back on the piece that was cut out. It will have 8 - 10 small screws and a single wire connecting it. Very simple to change once you cut through the plastic cover.

Get some Black silicone when your done and fill in the cut marked lined and your done. they never even did this on mine but I think it makes it look more finished not so "someone attacked my blazer with a chain saw!"

If you need more ask away, I can send you photo's.

Hope this helped,

James

They get hot because of friction between the rotor (the disk part or the brake system), and the brake pads. (the pads that clamp on the rotor to create friction to slow the vehicle.

from the factory it has r12 in it,unless someone else changed it over to 134a

Radiation is energy that comes from a source and travels through space and may be able to penetrate various materials. Light, radio, and microwaves are types of radiation that are callednonionizing. The kind of radiation discussed in this document is calledionizing radiation because it can produce charged particles (ions) in matter

1. there is an air bubble in the line. 2. the heater core it self is really dirty inside or it is blocked up. feel the hoses going to the heater core. one should be real hot the other just slitely cooler. if this is true then the core is good. the problem may be in the on/off controls. depending on the vechele, a control switch may be in the heater hose or in the heater core. the input hose is hot, the output hose cool. the switch may be stuck so it is blocking the water getting to the core. have some one watch the switch under the hood while some one is in the vechele working the switch on and off.

how to remove the door panel of a 1995 s10

I just got done installing a hood cable for a 98' Blazer. I must say it is a pain however it is doable. I am a programmer not a mechanic and I pulled it off :P

Note: If you cant open the hood just drive around your neighborhood and keep pulling the latch and it should eventually pop open. If your hood cable isn't severed.

What You Need:

- Replacement Hood Cable (About $15-$20 online)

- Needle Nose Pliers

- Ratchet set

- Wire Cutters

- Wire Coat Hanger

- Flash Light

- Nice to have another person to test with however that will be the only time you need a 2nd person.

Approx: 1-2 Hours (Took me 3 without a guide)

Under the hood (Removing the Cable):

1) Undo the hood cable from the hood latch. Just bend open the bracket with needle nose pliers and slide out.

2) Pop the rubber cable holder out of its spot. You can do this with a screw driver.

3) To the right above the drivers side headlight there are 2 little plastic snaps holding the cable. Just use a screw driver to pop them open.

4) Pull the cable towards the drivers side headlight until it pops out (around the brackets).

5) Cut the cable with wire cutters. (This gets rid of the hassle of it catching on crap when removing the rest of it. I found this out after getting the end stuck. )

Inside the car: (Removing the Cable)

1) On the drivers side remove your floor mat(s) so its just carpet.

2) Take a screw driver and pop the trim up at base of the doorway where the 2 pieces of plastic connect. (You only need to pop it up enough to remove the plastic housing around the hood release and e-brake.)

3) With your hands (Or with screwdriver if needed) pop the plastic housing off around the hood release and e-brake. Don't worry it shouldn't break even if it feels like it will. Start at the bottom closest to the trim you just popped up and work your way to the back behind the release lever. Yank on the plastic it should come off. (As said earlier it will feel like it will break but it wont.)

4) Peal back the carpet in the corner behind the hood release.

5) Undo the 2 screws on the hood release lever.

6) The plastic kick board (Should be black directly above the hood release) will have 4 screws. 1 on the left, 1 on the left - center, 1 on the right, and 1 on the right by the accelerator. Undo them and push it off to the right a bit.

7) Now that you have access to all the screws holding the e-brake in. Remove the 2 screws and nut. (1 in the front, 1 in the back behind the cable, and the nut is at the very top in a tight spot. The nut is a royal pain if you have big hands! Keep in mind its a nut NOT the bolt directly above it. Takes a bit of feeling around until you get it. Its at the top closer to the front. )

8) Pull the e-brake off of the bolt that is holding it up (Pull towards the pedals and down once its off. Its the bolt you removed the nut off of) and push it off to the right.

9) Follow the cable with your hand until you reach a rubber stopper. (There will be some material with a slit that you have to go behind about a inch up until you find it. Remember this location and that there is indeed a rubber stopper. I didn't know about the stopper and looked for 5 min before I realized it was there.

10) You now have full access to the hood release cable so pull it until the cut end is out. (If you have troubles you may need to look under the hood and find what its getting stuck on. Shouldn't be a issue if you cut the end off.)

11) Remove the rubber stopper you found at step 9.

Installing the new cable (Mostly under the hood):

1) (Inside)Push the end of the cable with the spring through the hole you found when removing the old cable. Just push back the rubber stopper attached to the cable until its somewhere near the handle. Only push like 4 inches in or so because it will run into something.

2) Under the hood near the drivers side wiper look down and your cable should be viewable to the left of the black thing.

3) Push the cable back and behind the black thing towards the drivers side fender then pull the cable slack threw.

4) Tuck the cable in along side the drivers side fender down with the other wires and continue doing so until you are past the wiper fluid.

5) Push the cable through the the holes so that its sticking out on top of the headlight. (As in under not over the top)

6) Direct the cable behind the grille (Same path as the black plastic cable holders you unclipped when removing the cable).

7) Take a wire coat hanger and bend a little hook at 1 end and stick it through the top hole (To the right of the bigger hole by the hood latch) and hook the springy part of the cable and slowly work it through the hole.

8) Push the hard plastic stopper ( the part right before the metal cable ) into the grove part of the latch.

9) If you have the bracket bent open already skip to step 10. If not then take needle nose pliers and bend open the bracket on the latch so that you can fit the cable in.

10) Pull back the spring and hold the cable (In front of the spring) with needle nose pliers and push the cable into place on the bracket.

11) Bend the bracket back into place.

12) Push the cable into the plastic brackets and snap them closed. As you do this start tucking the cable in.

13) If you still have excess cable then push the cable back towards the drivers side area until the excess around the headlight is tucked away.

Installing the new cable and cleaning up (Inside the car):

1) Make sure you have the right amount of cable inside so that the latch will screw into place. (Don't screw it in yet!)

2) Make sure the hood cable goes between the e-brake cable and the side of your car.

3) Slide the e-brake back onto its bolt and tighten the nut down.

4) Push the hood cable until it fits properly with the e-brake.

5) Screw in the 2 screws on the e-brake and make sure its on snug with no wiggle.

6) Screw in the hood release lever. And test it. ( I suggest having someone pull the hood release lever while you test the hood latch with a screw driver. You test by pushing the shaft of the screwdriver down in the latch as if the hood was latching in. Pull up with a bit of force and if the latch opens when the person pulling the release lever lets go of it then you should be fine. However if it doesn't double check that you did every step correctly or it may be the latch itself that is faulty. Could try lubing up the latch so it operates more smoothly. )

7) If your test went well close the hood and try it for real. If it opens then everything went fine. If not you may need to driver around the block and pull the lever until the hood opens again and check what went wrong.

8) Put everything back into place on the kick board so it will fit correctly and screw it back in.

9) Push back the carpet to its usual spot.

10) snap the plastic panel back into place. May need to hit it a few times with your hand so it snaps in.

11) Snap back down the plastic trim at the base of the doorway (over the top of the plastic part you snapped in place in step 10).

12) Put back in your floor mat(s) and clean up.

Congratulations you have replaced your hood cable :)

the location of the air pump on 2005 Chevrolet trail blazer

There are 2 knock sensors on these motors. They are located in the valley cover under the intake manifold.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Heavy! 4,444#

I've been researching it myself and most answers I've seen say anywhere from a couple of days to a week

V8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Depends on what engine and if it is a S-10 Blazer or a K5 Blazer

4.3 is 1-6-5-4-3-2

2.8 is 1-2-3-4-5-6

When I took mine down to replace the 4wd switch I used a 7mm nut driver and started removing the screws that were holding it in. I think there are about 6 or so. One is at the top on the inside of where your speedometer is and is visible there is one down on the right underneath like by the emergency brake and so on. If you look you will see. You can even run your hand around and feel for them. The hardest to get to was under the ashtray back above my console. When all the screws are out wiggle it a little and it will pop off. Be very careful they crack easy!

Wlftkr: One thing I learned, tape the screws to the hole you removed them from and you won't be looking at a couple left overs or wonder why this one is longer, or why it came out so easy but is going in all wrong.

4+4? 35mm.

should be unless it was removed and lines plugged off (not a good idea)

For the Passlock 2 system, put the key in the ignition and turn the engine over (the car should not start, if it did you are done), turn the key to the ON position, let it set for 10 min. The security light should be flashing. After 10 min. the security light should stop flashing the car is ready to learn the new key value. Turn the key off, wait 5 seconds, and then try to start the car.

That is just a figure of speech,( automatic hubs) on a 1990 model 4x4.

There are no hubs to remove, It has a 1/2 shaft with CV joints-- AXEL SHAFT, And when ingaged in 4-wheel drive it locks the ring and pinion in instead of lock-outs,

There is nothing to remove.