Chevy Camaro RS

you have to get a reprogrammer from summit racing and reprogram the computer.

If you know the value of the resistor you can cut the wires going to the lock cylinder and solder in a resistor of the correct value. There are 15 different values: Value: Ohms 02 - 0.523 03 - 0.681 04 - 0.887 05 - 1.130 06 - 1.470 07 - 1.870 08 - 2.370 09 - 3.010 10 - 3.740 11 - 4.750 12 - 6.040 13 - 7.500 14 - 9.530 15 - 11.801 It could be any of those. If you're trying to bypass it doesn't have to be exact but it does need to be close. To make the correct value of resistor, get resistors of different values and add them up. Solder them in-line to each other. If you don't know the correct value start at the bottom and work your way up. There's a 4 minute wait between trys and the ignition needs to go to the OFF position before you start the wait.

check the vacuume lines Need more info, do you mean the blower is losing volume? BClear.

#1. Most of the keys made out of soft alloys with Copper, Aluminum etc. Those alloys are not magnetic. But they are strong and light so you can carry in your packet not around your neck on the huge chain.

#2. Do you want to use electronics components in your car such as built in 30+ Gb media player? It is basically computer. What would happen if you place magnet next to your laptop? Correct, you will go to computer geek to restore your OS and, if lucky, your data files. That is why.

The ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column down towards the bottom. It has 2 screws that hold it in place and the switch is slotted for adjustment.

Bad coil Distributor cap Rotor

Sensor is located on the drivers side of the oil pan.

89 was the first year the RS designation came to thethird gen camaro. It came with a V6 or an optional 305 upgrade.

I just purchased the 93 ver. of this same car with the same prob. The mechanic saidto turn the key to "on" (not start!) and leave it for 10 min.

After that doesn't work you can disconnect the battery and wait a minimum of 30 min. Put the key in then re-connect the battery. My car started for a mere min before cutting out again. These dang security measures are more trouble than they are worth. I Wish they could just be Removed completely!

No. Call a wrecking yard. They have interchange books that will give you the exact years, but, off my head, I think 82, to 91?

== == I have seen most times when there are multiple clicks and only catches once in a while, it usually is the starter. It needs replacement. Usually it's a fairly simple DIY job. You also do need to check the battery as stated above and possibly the alternator as well. If the car starts while the battery is hooked up and immediately dies when you unhook it, check your alternator. It should still have a minimal amount of power even with the battery unhooked.

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Remove neg batt cable.Remove dash plastic under steering column. Disable/unplug airbag yellow power feed wire under dash if so equipped.( If your car has a airbag make sure it is disabled!) Remove horn pad/ air bag as necessary. Loosen-remove center nut on steering wheel. Using a steering wheel puller, pull wheel. Remove the two bolts that hold the column at middle. Drop column 6" or so. Remove the 2-3 torx fastners the hold the switch in place. Unplug the switch harness at midpoint on the column and feed the harness thru opening. Reverse procedure. Done. I hope this helps you. Mark

drivers side in front of rear tire underneath car.

There are a couple reasons. First what kind of car is it? It could be a relay. It also could be an inertia switch located some where. If it tripped you won't get power to the fuel pump.

First step: 40 Ft/Lbs Second step: Tighten an aditional 90 degrees.

I have seen this problem before. It sounds like it could be the fuel pressure regulator. They are typically located on the fuel rail. If your car is blowing black smoke and missing and is hard to start, that is a good indication that it might be the problem. You can test this by getting a fuel pressure tester and hooking it to the fuel port on the fuel rail. Turn on the key (do not start) and it will build pressure. If the pressure drops off, it may be the fuel pressure regulator. It's a cheap and simple fix. A vacuum line and a bolt is all that holds them in.

Yes

If the hazards work but the turn lamps do then it a problem with your turn signal switch itself ( the actual rod on the steering column). first try to simply clean the inside to rule out debri, if that doesn't work buy a new switch :) If both were out then I'd say it was the switch assembly for both located behind the fuse panel

its not too bad.. right now im getting 15 street and 24 highway, which isn't too bad for a v8 automatic.

V8s are gas gusllers and if you had a stick you would get 2-3 mpg better on highway and street

there was no 350 in the camaros in 83 just 305 and v6

The 1970 model year was the first year for the second generation Camaro. The debut was delayed by a strike at GM and some persons think there was a 1969 1/2 model that resembled the 1969. The body style is completely different from the first gen (67-69) and it continued to evolve until the 3rd gen came out in 1982. The second generation is currently not a hot collector item, but expect that to change as the ever popular 1st gen Camaro soar in price beyond the reach of average car nuts.

(SHOULD BE IN PASSNGERS SIDE RT FLOOR PANEL) It's on the drivers side floor panel and it would be a relay not a reset switch but as my wife tells me I been wrong before the relay where I live in West Virginia it will run you 27.00..

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/repaint.htm this has everything you need to know to remove bumper cover just ignore the stuff about repainting unless that's what u plan to do

yes but of course you will need new motor mounts and transmission

right side of the intake further back from the last coil pack next to the fuel rail. there should be a sticker on the right side of your fender inside your engine bay with a diagram that shows exactly where it is.