Chevy Camaro RS

simply unbolt it and disconnect all the wires and then replace all the wires and bolt back into place done deal

18436572

Assuming same as 2004: the whole module comes out as a piece for access to all lamps. Open hood, remove prox 5' rubber cover that stretches over both headlight modules. There are 5 prox 5/8" plastic clips w/a big x on them -screw out, but can be tapped back in. Remove the 3 screws top of module (1 is low by bumper). The hard part is there is a black platic clip in the top (part of) of the module, near center, that must be pushed down for the module to release and slide out. You must also separate the multi-pin connector, then the module is free. The rest is pretty obvious once it's on the work bench. Low-beam lamp is 12v55w = to GE H7-55 (Walmart about 8.50ea). Obviously, reverse to reassembl.

It all dependd on if you have a good driving record, your age, and the company so call the company and get a qoute

it starts at the transmission near the firewall, runs through the firewall directly to the speedometer. you have to remove the combination meter(where the speedometer and guages are) in order to remove it.......this is not for amateurs!

Sounds like the headlamp relay is bad. Check the fuse panel under the hood, the relay should be labeled on the fusepanel cover. Try swapping out one of the other relays. If they work, replace therelay. If not, look elsewere.

should be a 700r4 dont quote me on that though

It can be done but you might have to modify your tranny tunnel to do it.

"remember if you change gear ratio in transfer, you will have to match gear ratios in front and rear differentials" The above answer is incorrect. I Front & rear Axle (differential) must be the same as each other, but the gearing in the transfer case can be any gear ratio you would like. All transfer cases are 1:1 ratio when in "high" range. While in low, the gearing is usually between the 2:1 (NP203, NP205, Dana 20) to 2.7:1 (Dana 18, NP231, Dana 300, NP241, NP208) range, while custom transfercases (Atlas/Stak) come in 3:1 all the way up to 5:1 range. The initial question doesn't make sense/is contradictory to me. If you are talking about lowering your RPMs while driving on the street or at Highway speeds, your transfer case is not the answer (it should be 1:1). You either will need to change the transmission to one with an Overdrive (.8/.75:1), or change the gearing in your differentials. When changing the gearing in your differentials, the higher the number the lower the gearing (more power, but higher RPMs at freeway speed), the lower the number the higher the gearing (less power, but lower RPMs at freeway speed). Now if your talking about a better gear ratio while offroading, that is the other end of the spectrum. You would want lower gears (higher numbers) in your differentials or swap out your NP203 for a lowered geared transfercase.

Yes.

Depends GREATLY on the year of manufacture, and if it was a high or low performance motor from the factory. The highest production motor was the 1969-1970 high compression Ram Air IV at an underrated 370hp @ 5500rpm. Later (after 1974) smog motor 400 4bbl motors were 180-220hp. There were even 2bbl economy 400's that were rated at 170hp. There was also the over the parts counter Ram Air V crate engine in 1969-1970. It had no offical factory HP rating, but close to stock Royal Pontiac tuned test cars back in the day ran 11.60-11.80's at 116-120 mph, suggesting an actual output somewhere over of 500hp. Less than 200 were produced and go for huge money today (like $10k for a set of heads and $5-6K for an intake!)

bad battery, and bad alternator not keeping it charged - also bad connections to the battery or loose wire connections on the alternator.

you need to check the ground wires of the brake lights they have a separate ground out of the wiring harness it grounds on the left side of the rear fender well it is a braided wire.

A lot of the newer cars do not have grease fittings in the suspension. It's what is called "factory sealed". You can't grease them.

a stock 327? well did it have the 202 heads,was it 2 or 4 barrel,did it have the rochester fuel injection,the 327's ran from 250 to 375 horse,i'm guessing stock 68' 194 heads,4 barrel around 275 horse. cudagon@yahoo.com

Driver side engine compartment. Should say power steering on the cap. just read the level on the stick and add accordingly.

1. First you have to remove the 8 screws to remover the cluster cover.

2. Remove the clear plastic lens.

3. Remove the cluster metal panel.

4. Remover the gauge screws.

5. Disconnect the speed odometer cable from the behind the cluster.

6. Remove the gauges.

7. Remove the 2 nuts but the check engine light and seat belt light.

8. remove the cluster housing.

9. replace the bulb.

or

you can use the end of a 1/2" socket extension to pull the bulb without removing the cluster housing. Bulb fits perfect and wiggle the bulb out.

Yes, you just have to look around. I just saw a website that had a turbo for sale for around 2 grand, its used but it'd would probably give you 5-6PSI which is like a 40% increase in overall power. they are hard to come by and i don't know why, doesn't make sense to put a turbo on a V6, just buy a 350 V8 5.7L engine and drop it in the F-body, then get a turbo. you could pump out a good 400 horses with just that, add a chip, bore out the cylinders, and some other performance parts and you'll be one fast dude.

help any?

A turbo on a V6 will outrun any 350 any day. Considering that the turbo is designed and installed correctly, you can possibly triple the horsepower of the V6

Oh by the way,,,adding a decent turbo to a 350 V* that is designed properly can give you 700-800 horsepower.

And a decent 350/5.7 in practically new running condition will run you about $4000. Cheaper and more efficient to turbo the V6

A fuel regulator is also more commonly known as a fuel pressure regulator. This component of the vehicle is located in the fuel tank and regulates the pressure placed on the tank as well as the flow of fuel through the vehicle's system.

in the dashboard,remove the glove box then it is just above the ecm.

replace spedo cable.

I don't think the 96 Caravan has a cable. It has an electronic sensor but others said replaceing the sensor doesn't solve the problem.

under steering column on drivers side,may wnt to remove drivers seat to get to it easier unless you can bend your body in a pretzel shape.

Open the hatch, remove the rear interior body panal. Then there are five plastic wing nuts on each tail light housing. remove the wing nuts on the side which needs replacing, which may be obscurred by the other interior panals, and carefully remove the tail light fixture. to remove the bulb, twist the bulbs base left or right, and pull. The bulbs I.D.# should be on the bulb. Hope this helps.

Sounds like you have a probelm with your security system recognizing your key. Check with one of the really good locksmith that also replace ignitions etc.

disconnect battery. remove electrical connections from alternator. remove serpentine belt. remove alternator mounting bolts and remove alternator. Installation is reverse of removal.