Chevy Cheyenne

looking at the windshield from the front of the truck, first is the radiator, at the top of it, is a massive hose coming from your right (if you're looking towards the back of the truck and you're on the front end leaning over the engine.) follow it to the center line of the truck, where there is a large flange held on with some bolts. Un screw them, and disconnect the hose/flange connector. There you will find the Thermostat.

There may be some coolant leakage, so be alert.

the hose that has screw in fittings on both ends........the other (with a clamp on the pump end) is the return

On the papers mine said 3200kg, so I think roughly 7000lbs.

Yes. You can. You just have to swap and make sure you have the same set up. Or do custom work.

That was LATE 1999 when Chevy changed the body style. From 1988 to late 1999 the bodys were the same.

The axle shaft serves two combined function's, it supports the weight of the vehicle and delivers torque to move it.

Yes, it is possible that a cracked serpentine belt will cause poor fuel economy. Many people will have significantly improved gas mileage after changing the belt.

Check the 30 amp brake fuse (green) in the engine compartment fuse block.

use a pressure guage hooked to the scrader port on the fuel line.

It is in the fuel tank and can be replaced.

It is listed in your owners manual on the drivers door post.

5 quarts

It could be any gear ratio. what you need to do is remove the rear end plate and count the teeth on the ring gear, then count the teath on the pinion gear. and divide the pinion teeth # into the ring gear teeth # and that will tell you for sure just round the # off you come up with.

Well, it been a while, and I am working from memory, but, the 010 at the end tells me heavy duty, maybe truck. Most likely 70's, and a 4 bolt main engine. It may even have had a 186, or 041, or, 441, casting cylinder head on it. All 3 are desireable units today.

It is probably it oil preasuree switch which is supposed to take over after the priming 2 seconds.

Have you found the cause of your problem? I am having the same issue, or close to it.

It happens mostly in the wintertime, and usually after the car had been run within the last couple of hours. I go for the starter, it will catch as always, and then it dies. If I try again with my foot partially on the gas pedal, it will start the second time (but a little roughly and with some additional pumps of the gas pedal). If I don't touch the gas pedal, it will usually start on the third attempt.

I own a beautiful black 95 Firebird Formula. Which I both love and loath!And in the past six months I've had more problems with this car than I can count!Luckily being mechanically adept I've been able to fix most of the problems myself.And one was the engine dying after a few seconds/minutes or even a few hours, with seemingly no warning. After two weeks of scouring the car for an obvious problem,(I checked the fuel pump,the Opti-spark,the fuel injectors,the entire fuel rail,I used the most expensive OBD tester I coud find,I even thought it might be bad gas!) Untill one day a friend and I were srcatching our heads and about to throw in the towel. When we decided to try and start the beast one more time! And as my buddy peered into the cramped engine bay he just barely noticed an errant spark. Which upon further investigation turned out to be the distributer wire that was actually leaking/or arcing against the engine! And the car wasstarting just not running. So this was not showing as a fault to the ECM. After changing the wire the car started right up! I went ahead and changed out the spark plugs and wires too! (Which by the way was the most painfully agonizing chore I've ever had to endure! Trust me take it to a dealer to get the plugs and wires changed!!) Dont be cheap and try to attempt it yourself like I did! You'll thank me I swear it! Now my black beauty runs stronger and meaner than she has in a long while. Some quick notes: The fuel pump runs for only thirty seconds after the key is turned to the second detent and can not be heard always from the cockpit. It is also demand driven which means it only pumps fuel when needed. The fuel pressureat the rails should read around 50psi. If you change your wires upgrade to 8 or 8.5 mil high quality OEM types not the stock 7mil. Another possible problem that mimics this is a faulty vacuum pump, but that's another story!!!

Take off the connector to the TPS (Throttle position sensor) and then start it.If it runs then take off the TPS try cleaning it or replace it.Also take off the IAC (Idle air control) and reset it.Disconnect the battery if its not an obd2 system so the computer can re-adjust all of your system components.It will run like Poo till it is all set again.If its obd2 get your codes cleared .....

== == There is also a low pressure sensor in the system if this has went bad the clutch will not engage. To test unplug the wires from sensor and jum direct if clutch engages either the switch is bad or refrigerant has been lost.

There is a 15A in the main fuse box and a relay somewhere behind the centre console. If you have a rear cooler as well then there will be another fuse.

If your light is working on the dashboard but the magnetic clutch still doesn't engage then it's not a fuse you need to find but the relays; centre console passenger side, remove three screws in plastic cover and find relays in black rubber covers near heater matrix pipes.

LUCKY ANSWER! WE HAVE BOTH. HERE IN GEORGIA THE 650 AVERAGES 47-49 MPG. ON LONG CRUISES @70 MPH OR LESS 50-55 MPG. OUT WEST I DID DO 59MPG LAST SUMMER. THE 400 AVERAGES 58-60 MPG WITH MY WIFE. ON LONG CRUISES 65-70 MPH IT WILL DO 70 MPG. EXCELLENT BIKES. THANKS

Open the window.

Open the door (presumably from the outside)

Remove the screw attaching the handle to the door.

Slide the handle forward a bit, then pul it slightly away from the door drim panel.

Using a smallish flat bladed screwdriver, disconnect the linkage from the doorhandle.

Install new handle in reverse order.

The 95 computer, fuel pump, wiring harness is not compatible/ won't allow the 97 engine to even Begin to start and run. Won't work.

Weak alternator. Have the charging system checked.

I had a 95 Toyota tercel that totally shut down when the headlights turned on and the cause was for the most part dirty battery connections, when the electrical load was raised the alternator could not immediately keep up and required a moment to adjust, but with a bad battery connection (probably the Positive in my case) it couldn't temporarily draw enough power from the battery to still fire the spark plugs hence the immediate stall.

between 17 to 19 mpg

Just bought one 5 days ago for $4000.00. One owner from new 146k miles great paintwork V6 4wd with air etc.

distirbuitor, wires; most likley. Just go through the whole ignition system.

i do not know if you changed the whole column or the ignition barrel, i changed the barrel but have yet to replace steering wheel, making tool, any way here goes ,i took off the wheel, then unhooked the battery i then took the u shaped plate out,which is under pressure so take caution, ithen unscrewed the hazard switch and indicator arm from the indicator switch and unscrewed three screws holding switch in situ i then gently pulled switch over the top of the column, next make sure ignition is in the run position and one torxs head screw has to be removed and the barrel should come out, you may have to compress the sprung loaded plastic thing at the end of the barrel with a long thin blade type screw driver, then just reverse the disassembly and you should be ok, i must stress that i have power even though i still have to fit indicator cancel plate, sprung loaded from early, and i am making a tool as American specialist auto tools not allways available in the UK, hope this helps, best of luck mate.