Chevy Cheyenne

The spring goes down in the engine

If you get under your truck between the two front tires, and look up you should see it. It is cylindrical and is on the passenger side of your flywheel.

An exhaust restiction, like a clogged catalytic convertor

No and no the 2005 has 6 lug wheels and the 95 has 5 lug. As for the dash the cabs are totally different. The 2005 is significantly wider.

GMC Sierra

If it is petrol then it is probably the ignition timing not set correctly.

If it is diesel then it is probably the injection pump timing not set correctly

Could be your fuel pump. Vortec engines are very touchy

with fuel pressure

5 quarts.with filter

Mine takes 6 quarts with filter. 1994 4x4 supercab, 5.0 automatic

By "skipping", do you mean "cycling off and on"?

That is caused by low refrigerant pressure. Refrigerant slowly leaks even in an air conditioning system that is functioning properly. It's perfectly reasonable to expect to add a little refrigerant every year or two.

About 12mpg from my experience, mostly short distance, in town driving

hit set button then the sel button and turn the tuner knob

If you mean ignition points, no.

On a GM engine The #1 cylinder is located drivers side, front of engine.

They are screwed into the exhaust pipes / system up close to the engine.

Yes it does. That's normal.

No

you will rub really bad i have 38s on mine and it rubs once in a while

www.boxwrench.net

get to the specs, and they'll give a diagram.

you car will not run Right and will use more fuel or may cut out

Describe what kind of switch leg you want and I'll send you a diagram. Do you want 3-way (light and two switches)? If so, is the power at the one of the switches or at the light? Do you want a single switch? If so is the power at the switch or at the light? Do you want 4-way (or more)? Light and 3 or more switches? Again, is the power at the light or one of the switches. Drop me an e-mail at a_d_kirkwood@excite.com describing what you want, and I'll send you a diagram. THE ARE TWO WAYS TO HOOK UP A ELECTRIC SWITCH LEG. 1. RUN THE SOURCE OR HOT WIRES TO THE WALL SWITCH BOX. RUN TWO WIRE WITH GROUND TO LIGHT FIXTURE; CUT, STRIP, TWIST WHITE WIRES TOGETHER AND PLACE IN REAR OF BOX; TWIST AND PIGTAIL BARE GROUND WIRES TO HOOK TO THE GREEN GROUND SCREW ON SWITCH. THIS LEAVES TWO BLACK WIRES, ONE HOT AND ONE SWITCH LEG TO LIGHT. PUT WIRES ON S/P SWITCH. 2. HOT WIRES FEED THROUGH CEILING BOX. RUN 2 WIRE WITH GROUND DOWN TO WALL SWITHCH BOX. STRIP AND TWIST TOGETHER THE TWO WHITE WIRES FEEDING THROUGH THE CEILING BOX, BUT NOT THE WHITE WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE WALL BOX. TIE THE HOT SOURCE BLACK WIRE TO THE WHITE WIRE FEEDING DOWN TO THE WALL BOX.(PUT BLACK TAPE ON THE WHITE WIRE TO SHOW THAT IT IS HOT). IF THERE IS ANOTHER HOT WIRE FEEDING ON THROUGH THE CEILING BOX TO ANOTHER BOX, TIE BOTH BLACK WIRES TO THE WHITE WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE SWITCH. HANG YOUR LIGHT USING THE WHITE WIRES TO WHITE ON THE FIXTURE AND THE BLACK WIRE OF THE TWO WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE WALL SWITCH. IN THE SWITCH BOX JUST PUT THE WIRES ON THE SWITCH. (PUT BLACK TAPE ON THE WHITE WIRE IN SWITCH BOX TO SHOW IT IS HOT)

Have the 350 bored to 30 over with the pistons to match, stock rods, and a 400 crankshaft can be used but they have bigger rod journals. the 383 mod is so popular though that a special crankshaft with the 400 stroke and the 350 journals can be bought real cheap

The Low Beam lights are the easiest. Open the hood, and look behind the headlight assembly. You should see the base plug at the base of the bulb sticking out from behind. The tabs on the plug hold it to the base of the light. Gently lift those tabs away from the base of the bulb, and the plug should just slide right out.

Then you have to grab the base of the bulb, and give it a quarter turn or so counter-clockwise, and the bulb is unlocked and can be pulled out of the socket.

When you replace the bulb, put the new one in in reverse order. Make SURE you use a paper towel or napkin to handle the glass on the new bulb as any dirt, oils, salts, etc on your hand can create issues that will cause the bulb to break when the bulb gets hot, so keep it clean!!! Insert it in the socket, and rotate CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn.

The highbeam comes apart the exact same way, HOWEVER.....The only way I found to get to the plug and access the hole in which the bulb goes in, is to remove the grill mounting screws, (Theres at least 3 sometimes 5. The three for sure are on tabs on top of the grill at either side of the front panel that the grill attaches to, and the third is under the bowtie emblem on the grill. If there are more, you'll have to find those, the 97 and 98 that I own have only these three, but Ive been told there may be 5 total screws depending on what may or may not be under the hood as far as options.)

When these screws are out, you can gently slide the grill out of the tabs that hold the BOTTOM of the grill in place. Dont pull it off all the way unless you disconnect the turnsignal light plugs from the sockets or youll tear the wires or break the mounts.

Once the grill is pulled forward, giving you access to the headlight assembly, you can reach the high beam lights from underneath the assembly. Again, these can be replaced exactly as the low beams.

6x5.5

Yes, I believe it will fit. BUT, the timing marks won't be the same. Not a big problem, you'll just have to put new marks on the new balancer.

Yes it will fit but it might not work as there are 2 differently weighted balancers

1st balancer is a 28 oz imbalance used on 70-80 302 and 70-1997 351W 2nd balancer is a 50 oz imbalance used on 81-90 302

34 Gallons