Chevy Cheyenne

Yes it does. That's normal.

No

you will rub really bad i have 38s on mine and it rubs once in a while

www.boxwrench.net

get to the specs, and they'll give a diagram.

you car will not run Right and will use more fuel or may cut out

Describe what kind of switch leg you want and I'll send you a diagram. Do you want 3-way (light and two switches)? If so, is the power at the one of the switches or at the light? Do you want a single switch? If so is the power at the switch or at the light? Do you want 4-way (or more)? Light and 3 or more switches? Again, is the power at the light or one of the switches. Drop me an e-mail at a_d_kirkwood@excite.com describing what you want, and I'll send you a diagram. THE ARE TWO WAYS TO HOOK UP A ELECTRIC SWITCH LEG. 1. RUN THE SOURCE OR HOT WIRES TO THE WALL SWITCH BOX. RUN TWO WIRE WITH GROUND TO LIGHT FIXTURE; CUT, STRIP, TWIST WHITE WIRES TOGETHER AND PLACE IN REAR OF BOX; TWIST AND PIGTAIL BARE GROUND WIRES TO HOOK TO THE GREEN GROUND SCREW ON SWITCH. THIS LEAVES TWO BLACK WIRES, ONE HOT AND ONE SWITCH LEG TO LIGHT. PUT WIRES ON S/P SWITCH. 2. HOT WIRES FEED THROUGH CEILING BOX. RUN 2 WIRE WITH GROUND DOWN TO WALL SWITHCH BOX. STRIP AND TWIST TOGETHER THE TWO WHITE WIRES FEEDING THROUGH THE CEILING BOX, BUT NOT THE WHITE WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE WALL BOX. TIE THE HOT SOURCE BLACK WIRE TO THE WHITE WIRE FEEDING DOWN TO THE WALL BOX.(PUT BLACK TAPE ON THE WHITE WIRE TO SHOW THAT IT IS HOT). IF THERE IS ANOTHER HOT WIRE FEEDING ON THROUGH THE CEILING BOX TO ANOTHER BOX, TIE BOTH BLACK WIRES TO THE WHITE WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE SWITCH. HANG YOUR LIGHT USING THE WHITE WIRES TO WHITE ON THE FIXTURE AND THE BLACK WIRE OF THE TWO WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE WALL SWITCH. IN THE SWITCH BOX JUST PUT THE WIRES ON THE SWITCH. (PUT BLACK TAPE ON THE WHITE WIRE IN SWITCH BOX TO SHOW IT IS HOT)

Have the 350 bored to 30 over with the pistons to match, stock rods, and a 400 crankshaft can be used but they have bigger rod journals. the 383 mod is so popular though that a special crankshaft with the 400 stroke and the 350 journals can be bought real cheap

The Low Beam lights are the easiest. Open the hood, and look behind the headlight assembly. You should see the base plug at the base of the bulb sticking out from behind. The tabs on the plug hold it to the base of the light. Gently lift those tabs away from the base of the bulb, and the plug should just slide right out.

Then you have to grab the base of the bulb, and give it a quarter turn or so counter-clockwise, and the bulb is unlocked and can be pulled out of the socket.

When you replace the bulb, put the new one in in reverse order. Make SURE you use a paper towel or napkin to handle the glass on the new bulb as any dirt, oils, salts, etc on your hand can create issues that will cause the bulb to break when the bulb gets hot, so keep it clean!!! Insert it in the socket, and rotate CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn.

The highbeam comes apart the exact same way, HOWEVER.....The only way I found to get to the plug and access the hole in which the bulb goes in, is to remove the grill mounting screws, (Theres at least 3 sometimes 5. The three for sure are on tabs on top of the grill at either side of the front panel that the grill attaches to, and the third is under the bowtie emblem on the grill. If there are more, you'll have to find those, the 97 and 98 that I own have only these three, but Ive been told there may be 5 total screws depending on what may or may not be under the hood as far as options.)

When these screws are out, you can gently slide the grill out of the tabs that hold the BOTTOM of the grill in place. Dont pull it off all the way unless you disconnect the turnsignal light plugs from the sockets or youll tear the wires or break the mounts.

Once the grill is pulled forward, giving you access to the headlight assembly, you can reach the high beam lights from underneath the assembly. Again, these can be replaced exactly as the low beams.

6x5.5

Yes, I believe it will fit. BUT, the timing marks won't be the same. Not a big problem, you'll just have to put new marks on the new balancer.

Yes it will fit but it might not work as there are 2 differently weighted balancers

1st balancer is a 28 oz imbalance used on 70-80 302 and 70-1997 351W 2nd balancer is a 50 oz imbalance used on 81-90 302

34 Gallons

Miss Elizabeth passed away May 1, 2003. According to Wikipedia, she had been taking steroids, hydrocodone, Xanax, and vodka with Lex Luger the day of her death. Luger was arrested and charged with possession of controlled substances. She was buried in Frankfort, Kentucky.

18436572 should be the same for the 304 v8 with either ignition as the motor is timed to make it run in a balanced smooth manner. After the electronic sends voltage to the coil the system functions the same as a conventional breaker system.

In 1988 the hot cereal market garnered sales of $600 million

about 100 horse.

You don't give the year but on my 1980 it is on the passenger side of the firewall.

Yes with modifications.

Get ready to have some FUN!!!! Don't get scared, just be patient. First things first you have to remove the actual grill shell. There should be 10mm screws holding it to the core support, and, it will be clipped on to the core support braces at the bottom. These will take quite a bit of wrestling your first time through. However, be extremely careful as these are very fragile and play a pretty substantial role in keeping the grill from vibrating. After unhooking the grill, don't get to hasty. Your blinkers will have to be removed from the grill shell (this is solved with just a quick counter-clockwise twist). There will now be four bolts holding each headlight assembly onto the core support. The wires connecting them are normally color coded. BUT NOT ALWAYS!!! Replace your headlight and your ready to reassemble.

To test fuel injector failure disconect the power plug from one while runing (you won't get an electrical shock) and check if engine performance gets worst, if not, you have found the bad one. Test all injectors as well to be sure. Be careful removing the power plug, they use a protection clip that must be reconnected. Avoid this problem using a fuel injector cleaner regularly. Avoid driving the car with low gas in the tank, it will use dirty gas of the bottom.

this nwill only work if the injector is not working, it will not help if it's weak or is working partailly, and if it's like mine you cant even get to the injector plugs without taking everything off, and if you just a guy who changes oil and plugs and a cap then it will be diffecult for you unless you know how to read an ohm meter, and since you have to take the throttle body off to get the fuel log off to get the injectors out which means you have to bleed off the fuel pressure in the line then disconnect the line right before they go into the fender drivers side, my advise is to go ahead and change all the injectors because it's just not worth guessing at which one might be bad or how many are bad, just replace them all and remove all doubt. it'll take the better part of the day to do it unless your used to working on cars all the time, hope this helps, P.S. a book will help but not alot, example: it will say to relieve the fuel preasure from the fuel rail by bleeding it at the sharder valve well the 93 don't have a sharder valve and it don't tell you were or how to disconnect the fuel lines you half to know how and have the platis tools that you use and the air conditioning lines, so thats why i said what i said, butch

I have recently found out that's its pretty much impossible. i know.. i didnt like the news either, but the only time that my 6.5 smokes up is when its cold in the morning, and i stomp on it which kills my mileage.

DUMP SOME OIL IN THE FUEL TANK

You can try this: Firing order 15426378 Distributor turns counterclockwise Right bank (passenger side) is numbered 1 to 4 Left bank 5 to 8 Number 1 will be stamped on top of the distributor cap

This website is a piece of garbage.

It has more questions then answers.

there is a small pin you can see through the plastic on the steering column in front of the ignition. you insert the key and push the pin to release the cylinder. you may need to remove wheel to get to it though.

EIther there is no adjustment. It is built into the drive axial. Use shims, or body pull.

OR,

Some have an eccentric round nut adjustment up on top (of the steering knukle) where the top ball joint would go as in the 1986 model 4 wheel drive. Needs a special tool and usually is rusted on good. Best to take to a shop that can deal with those odd balls. Very expensive.

I had one of those trucks. No way visible to see how to adjust Camber and it wears out your front tires real fast.

Or,

Third option cheap do it yourself. Google for Camber Kit (Silverado) buy from Einbrach something name like that special offset ball joint to - +2 degree camber to replace old ones if not able to shim /bend front "axial" or adjustment eccentric cam is frozen on too hard to knuckle (do not heat those since it will take out the temper and ruin them) press out old top ball joint and replace with special offset aftermarket kit to get the wheel in alignment. Cheap way to go for do it yourself.

Silverado is great for that year 350 CID with 700R4 tranny runs great; only the front ball joint camber adjustment on the 4 wheel drive is a joke.

Many of the vehicles are valued in price close to $3,000. The amount will vary depending upon their condition and number of miles on the vehicle.