Chrysler LeBaron

You have to take off the glove compartment, and some other paneling to get to a little motor with a whole bunch of gears right behind your center console. Just put grease (or Vaseline) on all of those gears, and you should be good to go!

Its at the back and below the engine.. to fill it pull the dipstick marked POWER STEERING which is at the back of the engine to the left of the airfilter box.. and add fluid to the level marks on the dipstick

Chrysler's in general have a bad reputation when it comes to starter replacement, and in some cases one must disassemble a good amount of the car just to reach the plagued part (You do not have to remove anything from the car to reach the starter, it is located (not *) on all Chrysler leBarons on the cars front, but you have to lift the car up. Then there is 1 wire to be unpluged and another to be unscrewed to remove the electrical connecton. Then you must remove 4 bolts and the starter can be pulled away from the driver's side - pls. calculate 10 mins. for removing and another 10 mins. to mount the new starter, kinda easy work to be done). Fortunately the Chrysler LeBaron has most of it's belts to the left instead of in the front. Most of the time the starter is on the opposite side of the belts, in this case you will find the starter to the right of the engine block.

The LeBaron has a K body, so jack-up the car at the nose. Make very sure you engage your emergency break system and use some sort of stopper on both wheels for safety. Also make very sure you are making repairs to the car on a flat surface. That last thing you want is to be killed during as simple procedure as changing a starter.

Remove the power terminal from the battery post to prevent any electrical shortage.

Follow the red power lead from the battery to the starter located in the middle of the vehicle just to the left of the oil filter. There is 3 9/16" hex bolts that hold the starter to the engine, remove the bolts in a standard counter clockwise motion to

Mark the location of the spline shaft on the flange of the starter so when you put the new one in it goes on the same way.

Remove the 1/2" bolt that holds on the red power 16 gauge wire, clean and wire brush the wire terminal ends for good clean connection.

Follow this same procedure for re-installation of the new starter.

-> * on the 4 cyl. engines the starter is BEHIND the engine, between turbo and transaxles and you have to remove the engine mounts in front and at the back of the engine, move the engine towards the front and then you can try to remove the screws and the electric connections. this uses about 1-2 hrs. of work and it is much more difficult than at the V6 engines

->> It ist NOT a K-Body, it is a J-Body (V6 3,0 Liters are all J-Bodies).

You just lift the car on the front, then you will see the starter just at the front end of the engine, remove the 4 screws, remove the 2 cables (one is fixed with a screw) and then pull the starter to the passenger side. The new starter is to stick in in the opposite direction, screw on the 4 screws and fix the wires (one with a screw fixed, too).

Totally you will not use more than 15 mins on the V6 engines to replace the starter.

I totally agree about the 2.2 and 2.5 Litres, on them, it is crappy to remove the starter....

The easiest and most accurate way to check the fuel pressure, on your 2001 Chrysler Town and Country is to use a diagnostic tester. The diagnostic tester will tell you the exact fuel pressure at various RPMs.

I just changed the whole headlight assembly in my 1997 grand caravan. However, to change the parking light or turn signal indicator light, there is a round plastic plate in the front fender well in front of the tire. Pop this out and reach in and unplug the socket from the light assembly, change the bulb and install in reverse order. Good luck!

For the radio with a cassette player, Turn on the radio and push in on the knob on the left side and hold it down, (the knob you turn the radio on with) and then go to the knob on the right side, the one you use to tune the radio and turn it to the desired minutes, then let off on the knob on the right side and repeat the process for the hours.

Its on the logic module (near the bottom) behind the passenger side kick panel.

If you hear a clicking noise, there is power getting to it you just have a bad motor. if nothing happens, check the fuse. you can always put it up and down manually until you fix it.

Low fluid, broken transmission.

Attatched to the frame rail under the car on the drivers side.. mid way tween the drivers door and the wheel arch on a convertible or under the rear passenger door on a sedan

One of the gauges is outside the safe range. Check oil pressure, coolant temp, and battery voltage.

4.5 quarts

Depending on where you shop, the alternator unit can cost between 30 to 200 dollars. A car-yard like Ecology is near by, then you may be lucky. Otherwise, the auto zone or kragen can sell it for 120.

The labor cost for replacing the alternator can run you $100 to $200 dollars, cuz it is a real tough one to put in...

Open up the hood, and go in behind the fixture where the light is located. Sometimes there is an access panel on top. Open it and reach down inside and grab the bulb's socket. Twist the socket a quarter turn counter clockwise, and pull out the socket. Grab the bulb, and pull it straight out. To replace the new bulb, never touch it with your bare fingers, as this will greatly shorten the bulb's life, if it even work's at all. Use a tissue or something else in that order to handle the new bulb. Push the new bulb into the socket, put the socket back into the housing, and twist a quarter turn clockwise to secure the socket into the fixture

-> on the 1994 (1993-1995) Lebaron you have to unscrew the 4 screws each on top of the front light, remove the wire from the electric height ajustment (metal wire with bubble at the front end) to the top, pull the entire light part out of the front mask and then, you will see the rear side of the bulps.

NEVER place the glass part on top of the hood, otherwise it will fall down, crack completely and you will have to pay lots of quids to replace it...

Remove the glovebox and access the alarm module (3in square black box). Remove and ground #4 pin in harness plug to metal frame around the glovebox opening. Reach over and turn on ignition and restart previously unstartable engine.

I believe the standard amount of four, but check your owners manual, it should be under specifications.

4.5 quarts

Check your fuse first, then the trim switch.

Assuming the Up trim still works correctly, I would suspect a failure (in this order) of the down trim solenoid, the trim switch, or the trim motor. If your outboard has more than one trim switch (most newer ones have one at the helm and one on the outside of the motor cowling), try the other switch. If it works, suspect a bad switch. There are two identical solenoids that control the up/down trim motor. If the outboard only trims in one direction, switch the two solenoids and see if the outboard will now only trim in the opposite direction. If so, one of the solenoids is defective. Note: These tend to fail in pairs. If you have to replace one, I recommend replacing them both at the same time.

To test the trim motor, take your outboard to a certified marine mechanic.

you have to unscrew 2 screws on top of the radiatior, then remove the 2 wires (1 plug) and pull it to the top, calculate 2-5 mins

5.25" in the doors.

FRONT SEATING AREA, DRIVER SIDE, UNDER DASH, MOUNTED ABOVE STEERING COLUMN.

Overfilling a transmission may result in damaging seals, causing leakage, either external or internal due to over pressure by the transmission pump. This of course, depends how much it was overfilled!

Obviously there is an electrical problem..

In my '93 LeBaron, my son borrowed the car and left the emergency brake on, after starting the car. There was a short as a result, and my headlights needed jury-rigged to work...My dash lights do not come on, but the warning lights work.

Was there an electrical short, at some time in the past?

i have a 3.0 4 speed auto with over 220,000 miles on it and i get 21 mpg using 87 octane gas, also, i could use a tune up and it burns oil like they all do

See that huge long black thing under your console, with all the air vents and colored plastic vacum lines attahed. It's in there, on the passenger side. Yep, the whole darn thing has to come out. They claim the console doesn't have to be removed; you cut a section out by the glovebox, but don't believe it (if you have the convertable) There is steel bracing in the center console which will 'catch' it a you try and slide it out.

I replaced mine and only have 5 left over parts! Not bad for a rookie. Worst job I ever had.