Clutches and Flywheels

you have to take the air box out then if you look right under the intake youll see it it has two twelve mm bolts and a line just undo the line and then remove the bolts and reverse the procedure to install it

55 flywheel to crank 70 flexplate to crank

The problem may be the module that shifts the transmition from gear to gear. Is the car in second gear only? If so its in a safe mode so you can still drive it off a highway if needed. This also happens when the speedometer sensor goes bad and the transmition doesnt know when to shift. I had this happen on a highway and it cost about $350.00 for the fix. Replaced the module and speed sensor. Good luck

You either have air bubbles in the system or most likely it's your clutch master cylinder. Answer: Could also be a leak in one of the lines a bad slave cylender or just out of fluid..worst case clutch is going look for RPM spikes. easiest fix look for a leak, fix it bleed the clutch.

about the thickness of a business card, you can use this as a guide just to get you started.

Usually the clutch bolts do not come out , if you are hearing a grinding noise coming from the cover the cover is warped and needs to be replaced .

A giant plate with metal flanges and metal bands with springs and friction

material when the clutch pedal is depressed you are actually pressing the spring in the clutch through mechanical

linkage and opening the metal flanges to allow the transmission to shift into gear by a

shaft to connect to the crankshaft.

As mentioned above it is two metal plates , the flywheel, the one attached to the engine , and, the pressure plate, the one connected to the gearbox, and a friction disk, called the clutch plate, in between. The metal flanges in the pressure plate act as springs , allowing the two metal plates to separate, loosing friction , and allowing momentary stoppage of power to the gearbox, allowing the operator to change gears, who in turn releases the tension on the springs , allowing friction to occur, and power to drive the gearbox and the wheels.

have someone pump clutch pedal 3 times and hold to floor,go to slave cylinder,its bolted on side of transmission,coming thru a rubber cover,open bleeder valve,use aclear hose and connect to end of bleeder screw and other end into glass container.open bleeder screw and as fluid comes out ,watch to see if air is coming out,when all air is gone ,go to your clutch damper,its bolted on left side firewall,do the same and bleed it too.dont let fluid get low while bleeding.

METHOD A: 1- prepare your tools, replacement fluids, and protective coverings/absorbent materials. 2- get another person to help. 3- top off the fluid reservoir. 4- pressurize the line to the slave cylinder by working the actuating arm/pedal/motor on the master cylinder. When pressure builds up, maintain pressure while the bleeder valve/screw is opened.. MAINTAIN PRESSURE WHILE THIS IS OPENED. 5- When the pressure is released, close the bleeder BEFORE releasing the lever/pedal or reversing the motor on the master cylinder. 6- repeat until all air is out of line. It is important to maintain the fluid lever in the reservoir during this process. Some systems will require topping off every 2nd or 3rd repetition, others may be able to be filled once for the process, depending on the capacity of the reservoir. If this is for a vehcile, it is advisable to optain a good shop repair manual, such as CHilton, Haynes, Motor, Seloc, or clymer, or an original factory repair manual. The specific process for your application will be covered in more detail, and specific issues that may apply will be explained.

reduce the effort that apply from the clucth pedal by driver

on side of transmission where linkage hooks up

dot4 fluid boils at higher temperature than dot3 fluid. The higher boiling point is important in applications that require lots of braking because the friction caused by breaking creates substantial amounts of heat. If your break fluid boils it is no longer any good and needs to be replace by new fluid.

First, loosen the clutch cable, and remove the wing nut all the way and pull the cable out of the way. Mark the outside of the arm in case you forget which way it goes back together. Look at the end of the shaft where the arm attaches. There is a small circlip (circular clip with 2 small holes). Spray it down with WD40 or equivalent and let it soak a few. Remove the circlip...you will need some circlip pliars specially designed to remove and install the clip. Then, the arm should slide out, off of the shaft. Some prying might be needed to get it started...just be careful not to force anything. The old, and probably broken, spring will come off now. Reassemble. The arm is splined so that it only goes on one way. Take a good look so that you see how the splines work and how to get it back together. Rememer which side is the outside? Hook the 'hook' part of the spring around the arm and slide the arm and spring back on the shaft. The spring is correct as long as the hook part of the spring wraps around and contacts the part of the arm closest to the front of the vehicle. As you start sliding the arm onto the shaft, you will see that the straight part of the spring end needs to be popped up onto the shelf near the front of the vehicle...giving it it's springing action. This can be a little tricky, but not too bad. Once you have the spring seated correctly, the arm will slide all the way back on. It is all the way in as long as the groove that the circlip fits into is visible. Finally, replace the circlip and readjust the clutch. Don't tighten the cluth too much, or it will ride your throughout bearing and wear your cluch prematurely. There should be just a tad of slop in the pedal before you feel the clutch start to engage. And last thing...be really careful if you are jacking up your vehicle and working under it. Always work on a flat and hard surface. Always use jack stands and block the front wheels. Have fun and be safe.

yamaha fazer

When it starts slipping. Usually this will first start to happen in a high gear at full throttle, at the engine's torque peak (maybe 3000-4000 RPM? depends on which engine you have). I got 100K+ miles on my 1996 2WD 2.4L and I'm not easy on the clutch.

75.9 ft lbs

Right at the clutch master cylinder reservoir under the hood.

The drive train uses universal joints and a clutch.

you could have of torn a spider gear

Its A Half Moon Shaped Plasic Ratchet Behind The Clutch Pedal Of A Motor, It Pulls Your Clutch Cable Allowing You to Change Gears.

It is on the bottom of the pan.

if you had this same problum befor u installed the new clutch the trans is stuck betten gears if you can push the clutch in and the veh will roll andyou cant shift it you just mite have put the clutch disc.in back word now till me dose you clutch peddle stay on the floor when you push it in?

Depends on the type of vehicle you are working on. With an older VW bug the engine must be pulled to change the clutch. On most cars and trucks the technique is to pull the transmission.

The SC uses an hydrolic setup, therefore there are no adjustments. However, some of the slave cylinders come without a bleeder screw, thus making difficult to bleed. The solution is to disconnect the connection line to the slave cylinder and pressure bleed the system, in addition, be sure to bleed the master first.

To adjust the cable just go 1/2 way down the clutch cable and pull the rubber over the adjuster. loosten the lock nut and adjust the cable so there is about 1/8" free play at the handle.