Clutches and Flywheels

Measure the clutch free play at the tip of the clutch lever (3/8" - 3/4" max)

**Not within limits; may need new cable.

Adjust free play with lock nuts at the handle. Turn adjuster up to decrease free play and down to increase free play.

There is also a lower adjustment down near the heat sheild for the tailpipe coming across the motor. Turn adjuster up to decrease free play and down to increase free play.

about 4 hours.

Book time is over 10 hours and my personal experience doing them on the V6 trucks is longer than that. The front torsion arms have to come off and the bolts through the bell housing are a real pain to get to. Two cross members and the exhaust "Y" pipe has to come off as well. Add rust and bent parts from offroading and the job just gets harder. Two drive shafts and a carrier bearing, Electric harness and and if the shift boot is under the carpet it will fight you as well. Of the many clutches I've done these little trucks are some of the most difficult. A fair backyard Mech. might get to the clutch in 4 hours. Most people should plan for a two day job.

Yes, you can. However I would not recommend it.

fuel injector cleaner sometimes helps also you may not be starting the engine properly,see the question below entitled "why does my car stall but the electrical system still work?" my car will stall several times a day if i dont go thru this sequence.

its the brake resivior

Oiling the a/c clutch will cause the clutch to slip and burn up........

An automatic transmission might be slow shifting from first to second because of low transmission fluid. You might also have damaged the gears in the transmission at the area between first and second.

sounds like you have a serious slippage problem... The fact that your not asking why doesn't my car go anywhere is nothing short of miraculous. a few things could cause this and you need to look at some other facts about the car to determine the cause.

1. worn out clutch plate- new clutch

2. glazed clutch- not the end of the world just gotta wear down the glazing...

3. clutch linkage... i.e. master cylinder, cable or hydraulics, or slave cylinder

again look at the external characteristics like how gentle have you been on the clutch, how many miles on the clutch, does the car react differently in different gears and most importantly look at the design of your drive train as all cars are different.

It's a fun job because you get to use hammers, and you may not have to change it. These almost all get changed because you managed to break off the hook the clutch cable rides in. Start by unhooking the accelerator cable from the carb, then undoing the two bolts that hold the pedal cluster to the tunnel, unhook the accelerator cable, and pull the pedal cluster out. The piece that was inside the tunnel is where the problem lies. If the hook broke off, you've got to replace the shaft. If it DIDN'T break off, you wore through the pin in the clutch cable clevis that goes over the hook. Assuming the hook's broken, start by finding the alignment bolt for the shaft, and remove it. It's a hex-head bolt sticking out of the clutch pedal arm down at the base, and you'll see it. Use a big hammer and a big drift to beat the shaft out of the pedal cluster. Put some grease--lithium, moly, CV grease, whatever you have--on the shaft and slide it into the cluster. Rotate it so the hook is up and the hole for the alignment bolt is lined up, and install the bolt. Jack the left side of your car up and loosen the clutch cable a LOT--you can remove the adjuster nut if you'd like. Catch the pin in the clutch cable clevis over the hook, then set the pedal cluster about where it goes. The brake pedal has a pin coming off it that works the master cylinder. Put this pin into the master cylinder, hook up the accelerator cable and bolt the pedal cluster back in. Finally, adjust the throttle and clutch cables.

It will come off the same as on the 2002. See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_a_fan_clutch_on_a_2002_Chevy_Trailblazer_LT ...and keep some bandaids handy.

== == It is necessary to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation, there is a good tech article at DenLors including a video showing a master cylinder being bled prior to installation, see the link to the left or go to DenLorsTools.com an look at the Tech Articles.

look up "master cylinder bench bleeding" on google or something...you can get the kit at autozone or someplace like that...

We do a LOT of bluing, and the answer is going to be "it depends." If you are talking about hot-salt bluing like a professional shop uses then the answer is absolutely not. We do not plug bores in a hot-salt bluing tank because the pressure would cause the plugs to shoot out of the bore and splash 295 degree caustic salts everywhere. If you are talking about a traditional rust-blue where an application of bluing solution is swabbed onto the prepped steel, the part is allowed to oxidize (rust) in a humid cabinet, then boiled off in water and carded, the answer is yes. Bores do need to be plugged when rust-bluing simply to avoid any of the solution getting into the bore. We make plugs out of wooden dowel when we set up for this process - I know of no commercial reusable bore plugs for this purpose. Finally, if you are referring to swab-on "cold blues" - I would imagine you could plug bores similarly to the rust blue process. sales@countrygunsmith.net

It is located on the firewall between the brake master cylinder and the wheel well. It should be have a round black cap on top. It is about three by an inch and ahalf. Do not confuse this with the brake master cylinder.

fluid level

The brake fluid and clutch reservoir are one and the same on the 1984 model.

check fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir

Probably do to a bad pressure plate and or clutch plate. I would first check linkage adjustment and slave cylinder before changing clutch.

your slave cylinder is bad,its bolted on to transmission,replace and bleed system.

The term "pull in the clutch" means squeeze the clutch lever to the handle bar to disengage the clutch.

Hope this helps.

A 1993 does not have a clutch fork if it is a pick-up truck. It has an hydraulic slave cylinder.

You have to take the rad right out and you'll have a lot more room.

Typically, just age. Each gear of an automatic transmission is operated by one of a set of clutches or bands. When a band or clutch wears out that gear is through and the transmission will need to be rebuilt. The Valve Body controls pressures to different pistons in the transmission. At specific events the valve body causes pressure to be applied to the 2nd gear clutch piston and if the pressure is not sufficient the clutch may "slip", causing additional and premature wear. Driving a vehicle with insufficient ATF can also cause slipping and wear.

A friend recommended to me, bang on the starter a few times with a hammer (seriously), this should get it started. But if the problem persists it's time to think about buying a new starter for it.

I just recently started having this problem myself, I'm not willing to risk it "persisting" I'm going to simply get it replaced. At just now over 120k miles, it was bound to happen. Though word of the wise... I have noticed in other cars, that once the starter goes, the alternator isn't far behind. But it is not recommended you get both done at once, as the alternator could last you another 30k or so miles.

the pilot bearing is on the crank center of the fly wheel, the smallest end of the transmission shaft will fit into it after it is assembled.

My car is going through the same issue with the A/C. You CAN replace the compressor clutch without replacing the compressor, but the caveat is that you can't tell if the compressor is any good without a clutch. So basically you are gambling that the compressor will still be good by only replacing the clutch. Hope this helps!