Clutches and Flywheels

I'm going to bet that you didn't line up the plate with a dummy shaft and the pilot shaft is hitting the pilot bearing. That would keep the bell housing from bolting up to the engine and give you about an inch of gap.

If you used the old trick of popping the pilot bearing with grease and a drift, and you left the grease in the pilot bearing hole, that would prevent the pilot shaft from seating deep enough.

Well you can if you want your seals to swell and become relaxed over time, and then eventually not have your slave cylinder, or even the hydraulic line not operate correctly. The power steering fluid I believe is mineral based and Brake fluid is glycol based (which your supposed to put into the system) and thus each fluid has a different chemical affect to the seals on this particular system.

If a truck has a clutch brake it would only be used when coming to a complete stop. By pushing the clutch peddle completely to the floor you would apply the clutch brake. This stops the clutch disc from spinning making it easier to shift into 1st or reverse gear. Normal shifting while driving you would not need to or want to push the clutch peddle to the floor to activate the clutch brake.

On the clutch slave cylinder

Well it can only be one of two things.One the clutch slave cylinder is worn out and leaking at the dust boot (normal wear) or the clutch master cylinder is stuck and needs to be replaced (do not recomm rebuild on this). I would check ur fluid level for the clutch reservoir and then check up under at the transmission where the slave cyldr pushes the fork to change the gears on the rhs of the trans and if u see fluid around the rubber dust boot replace the slave cylinder.You bleed this the same as brakes fill reservoir and bleed the air out of the system from the bleeder screw on the slave cyldr.Also if the clutch master cylinder is bad it may leak inside at the clutch pedal toward the firewall.My clutch master failed this past aug 09 pedal stuck and basically the spring inside the part was orig,sticking and worn out after 22 yrs did not have a leak.I would start with the slave cyldr check then the master.It is one or the other unless ur clutch or throwout bearing are gone.

Must be done from underneath (unles you remove the entire engine), hoist up the car and work from underneath. Drain Gear box oil. Remove wheels, disconnect bolts and swing out wheel hubs, remove CV Joint drive shafts (both sides). Disconnect two get change levers Disconnect clutch cable Undo all the bolts holding on the gear box (have to remove the entire gear box to get to the clutch) Remove pressure plate and clutch plate. Do the reverse to put it all back together. Replace gear box oil Take lots of Panadol and cover injuries to hands with Band-aid Plasters, might need a few Blood Pressure Pills afterwards to lower you Blood Pressure as it is a very very difficult task to change a Daewoo clutch. I have just replaced my clutch due to it slipping all the time....but it was not the clutch plate wearing that was the cause of the slipping....it was the pressure plast spring fingers that had fractured causing loss of pressure on the clutch plate. Good luck...your'e going to need it Keith in Darwin Australia

The clutch is a cable based. There is no fluid and there is no clutch cylinder.

To adjust the clutch cable slip your foot under the clutch pedal and lift up. If you hear it click it adjusted itself. If not then it did not need to be adjusted or the clutch is worn out and there is no adjustment left.

==========================================================

Just adding to the answer :

Without the engine running put the transmission in 1st gear

After lifting up on the clutch pedal press the pedal DOWN , SLOWLY

Then if you hear a click noise the clutch has adjusted itself

It all depends on the vehicle as to how easy it is, but the slave cylinder is in the bell housing of your transmission. The transmission needs to be dropped and the slave cylinder isn't hard to remove after that. The biggest task would be disconnecting/removing the transmission and then aligning it correctly upon replacing it. (ex. don't get any wiring, etc. caught between bellhousing and motor, get all bolts tightened and threaded properly) It is a cylindrical (hence the name)peice that attaches to the transmission where it connects to the motor. .

it's all very simple, if you have all the right tools. you will have to take off a lot of the extremities. it's best to start off with disconnecting and removing the battery, disconnect all of the leads going to the starter motor and remove the starter motor itself, there are two bolts on the starter motor, both should be a 14 socket, or the emperial equivalent if you are still using that stuff. the first bolt is easy, it's quite visable, the second is under the starter motor itself, but you are still able to get the socket and extension bar into the gap.

from hear it's good to go underneath and drain the fluids, water from the radiator and transaxle fluid from the gearbox. with everything, it's good to either put back the plugs and so on while you are going along or labeling them for when you are wanting to put it all back together.

the next task is to take the drive shafts out. to do this you are going to have to take off the wheels and wheel nut(this will take two people, one to undo the nut and the other to stand on the brakes.) [Or, before removing the wheels or anythning else, break it loose, but don't completely remove it] after you have sucessfully taken the wheel nuts off you will have to get the suspension out of the way, firstly by taking the bottom portion off, there is a nut half way up that drops the lower portion off, the upper portion you will have to take off using a ball joint separator, but first you will need to take off the cover to reveal the nut, take out the split pin and remove the nut.

from here, get back under the car and use a big flat screwdriver to lever out the drive shaft from the gearbox. this has to be done on both sides or it will give you trouble when putting it back together again.

from hear it's all just as simple as taking all the bolts off that are keeping the engine and gearbox together, support the engine on a jack stand before removing the engine stay bolts on the gearbox. separate the two and lover the gearbox ground. take out and replace the old pressure plate, bearings and clutch plate. you will need to make sure the clutch plate is properly lined up, or when you attempt to put the gearbox back on it may damage the plate. you can do this by either using a tool to align it or if you trust yourself, you can make sure that the plate is equidistant from all sides of the pressure plate. you will need to use a torque wrench when tighening the bolts holding on the pressure plate and clutch plate, if you over or under torque these, you can damage them.

after you have aligned the clutch, it's as simple as putting everything else back on in the order it was taken off.

Cheers Have fun

~added part about breaking wheel nut loose while car is still on the ground -Thumper

is likely out of freon,pressure switch in accumulator will not allow compressor to start without refrigerant charge- have system serviced and recharged

pressure plate to flywheel bolts - 15 to 24

If it's a hydraulic clutch there isn't an adjustment. Just make sure the fluid is up. If it still slips or won't disengage you probably need to replace the clutch.

About 1 hour.

Yes. My 1999 Passat 1.8T 20v sport does. The reason I know is it just failed (along with the clutch) and I had to have it replaced at vast expense.

You can get the information you are looking for from Chilton, Aldata, and Ford. There are others, but these are best.

Oh, dude, you want me to give you the complete torque and valve settings for a Toyota Hilux 2.4D 2L Engine flywheel bolts? Like, I don't have that info memorized, but you can easily find that in the car manual or online. Just make sure to torque those bolts properly so your flywheel doesn't go flying off!

It can Only go on one way. The side where the springs stick out further go toward the pressure plate because they will hit the flywheel befor you can bolt on the pressure plate

it goes in middle of clutch

Cooling fans don't work all the time, they only come on when the engine has reached certain temperature or it has blown a fuse under the dash .

For the Clutch it could be that the brake fluid is low and you need to bleed out any air in the line for the clutch as the brakes and the clutch use the same reservoir

Mitsubishi is very common to use 17mm mostly whole car is assembled using 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm with these you can nearly disassemble the entire engine.

you give it to the shop you got it from.

It really depends on the damage, but whatever it is, it would normally cost around $60 or a little less than that to fix it.

its te left siler bar in front of your handle bar. the right one is the front brakes.

It uses two cables because one cable is used to pull the gear selector toward Low and the other cable is to pull the gear selector toward Park. If one is bad, you should always replace both.

It's expensive because they are somewhat annoying and time consuming to get to, and each cable costs typically over $40.

You really shouldn't expect to get out of a shop for under $200 labor, so it's about right.

Transmission linkage bushings can be put on by first removing the linkage cable and removing out outer linkage cover. The bushing can then be pull out and replaced with a new one.