Clutches and Flywheels

low or out of fluid (new car) classic car linkage may have broken

The fan clutch should have 4 or so bolts holding it on like most others. They are threaded normally, CW tighten/CCW loosen. So you would turn them CCW to loosen them if bolts are on the front and CW if bolted from the rear.

CW=clockwise

CCW=counter clockwise

Here is another easy way to remember... when facing the head of any right hand threaded bolt, or nut,,, Lefty Loosey,,,Righty Tighty

You cant change the actual manual transmission into an Auto howeverr you can take out the manual and put in an automatic transmission instead. You can but it will take time and can carry a high price. The 'simplest' way is to get the equivalent engine/gearbox as a complete unit and do the transplant. If you can get a donor vehicle so much the better. There are always those little bits you need that are difficult to source.

What is the proper adjustment for a 2004 Heritage Softtail Clutch. It seems I am releasing the handle 2/3 of the way out before clutch engadges. What is the proper procedure for adjusting the clutch

Clutch is either misadjusted or needs to be replaced.

yes

you cannot change the CLUTCH on an AUTOMATIC transmission. wow

I believe it has a rolled tension pin going through the fitting. Using a hammer and drift pin push the rolled pin out and the line should slide out. Becareful as there is a small o-ring inside that will probably fall out.

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Leave Belts on the pullys use a 32mm wrench turn clock wise, once its the fan is broke loose you can grab fan and spin off.

There is no clutch cable in 93 Mercury Capri. Its operated by hydraulics. There is a clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder. the seal in it probably worn out. Not very hard to work with.

Steve Nash, plays for the Phoenix Suns, born in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, is the best clutch free throw shooter in NBA history.

However, Dirk Nowitzki has emerged as a very clutch free-throw shooter, making more than 95% of his free-throws that he shoots in the fourth quarter.

If Iam not wrong , it is the same reservoir for the brakes.

if ya do it yourself bout 270.00 a shop 430.00

To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:

Transmission

Quick disconnect from the slave cylinder

2. Install a clutch alignment tool.

3. Mark the flywheel and a clutch pressure plate lug for the installation alignment if reusing the pressure plate.

4. Remove or disconnect the following: Pressure plate bolts and the washers

5. Secure the clutch pressure plate and the clutch driven plate to the flywheel.

5. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

To install:

1. Install or connect the following: Bolts and the washers securing the clutch pressure plate and the clutch driven plate to the flywheel

Clutch alignment tool

2. Install the pressure plate. Align the marks made during removal if reusing the pressure plate. Tighten the clutch pressure plate mounting bolts. Torque to: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) on the NV3500 or 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) on the NV1500

3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

4. Install or connect the following: Manual Transmission, Quick disconnect to the concentric slave cylinder

5. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system if necessary.

6. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs.

where you can't find it

T5 Transporter clutch fluid is contained within the break fluid reservoir.

Probably a worn out clutch disc.

you cant adjust a drive belt, you problem is in the secondary clutch, I am sure you need to replace the sliding clutch and put a spacer in front of the hub.

It could lead to premature throw-out bearing failure.

sounds like your clutch needs to be replaced, could be a pre-exsisting problem with your transmission if you bought it from someone else privately. people do not really take care of their transmissions, it may be due for a flush as well as a little tlc....if its grinding and clunking you may need to replace the whole thing. but first check out all the gears, solenoids, filters, and flush the tranny before taking your tracker apart.

Remove the fan first, small bolts hold it to the assembly. There is a tool to hold the clutch assembly while you remove the large nut. You can try to do this using a large screwdriver across 2 of the fan bolts but it will slip and you will either make a hole in the rad or lose skin of your hands, buy the tool. Use a torque wrench to put the nut back on. it is very important that it be tight. The nut is hard to get started but if the threads are clean and you are patient once it starts it is easy. Try turning the nut backwards for a turn or so to centre it on the bolt if getting it started doesn't seem to work.

loosen cable adjuster in front of frame tubes (shorten until lever is sloppy). pop off derby cover, loosen lock nut, back out set screw with allen, turn back in until it makes firm contact then back out slightly less than half turn, hold set where it is with alen wrench(important!), tightn set screw with open end wrench, tight. tighten up cable ( lenghten) until lever has about 1/4 inch play. do a burn out in the driveway to check it out.

The clutch will not depress after you have pushed it in to shift gears. It may come back out a few times but this will be the beginning of the problem. I just changed mine recently (at a Ford dealer) as this was the problem. Not a cheap job to get done by any means. Have the mechanics check your clutch and pressure plate for wear as this would be the time to get it all done. The job cost approximately $1300.00 bucks (candian funds) and will be about half that price if you just change the slave cylinder. It shifts like a new truck now!!!

You bleed this the same way as a brake line. 2 people, full reservoir, dot 4. Make sure the bleeder is easy to open. With bleeder closed, have other person pull in the clutch and hold it in,you open the bleeder to let out the air or fluid, then close the bleeder, when you have it closed, then tell the other person to let go of the clutch. Repeat this till all the air is out.