Differentials

Pull tires, wheels, brake drum.

Pull your differential cover, drain oil.

Pull your bolt pinnion shaft.

Pull pinnion shafts

Remove "C" clips from differential.

Axles will then slide out.

Patients & keep up will all of your parts.

There is a hole in the front diff guard, thats where you add it (remove the nut). On the left side of the diff there is another nut remove it to drain before adding.

It is used in the rear axle so both wheels are driven but they can go at slightly different speeds to the tyres don't scuff when going round a corner.

fords had several different axles. look on id plate on side of door then look in owners manuel to see what axle corresponds to the number on the id plate

SR={((V1-V2)/V2)*100}/(W1-W2)

where,SR=srinkage ratio

v1=initial volume

v2=final

w1=initial moisture content

w2-final

If you have never been involved with this type of lubricant, it is different than others used in the rest of the vehicle. Usually you can find an access/filler plug at the front or back of the differential. It also helps you with maintaining the correct level of lubricant. Normally you will need to drain the existing lubricant which can be pumped out or you can open and drain by removing the casing bolts. If you choose to open use a new gasket. The new lubricant can be added and the level will be determined by the location of the drain plug. For the "shade-tree mechanic" use the pour spout of the newly purchased lubricant (the lubricant is very thick, for older vehicles) and more manageable for new vehicles. "Rule-of-thumb" is to fill to the point where your finger can touch the pooled lub. inside the casing.

to measure the temperature of a person or animals (living things) to see if their temperature is too high than the average temp.

If anyone would have it it would be Driveline.com

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Hope This Helps and Good Luck

The Haynes Repair Manual states, "Honda CVT fluid." I would imagine that there may be an equivelant commercially available product. Check with your local auto parts store.

no

The most likely cause is the brake light switch has failed check if the brake lights are working.

You really need to take a reading before youremove the nut and tighten the nut 3-5 pounds inch more than it was when you took it apart. If you didn't you need to torque it to 25 pounds-inch with a new nut and sleeve. You can probably rent an inch pound torque wrench from the parts store. Turn it several turns after tightening it and before reading the torque.

Most common ratios for that year with a 350v-8 (vin K) 3.73:1 or 3.42:1 In the glove compartment is a sticker containing "RPO" codes 3.73:1 = GT4 3.42:1 = GU6 You can call a GM dealer, give them your FULL VIN and they can tell you what the truck was equipted with from the factory.

700R4 from 1986 to 1992 should work

The cost of a new transmission for a 2001 Saturn will depend on the store or transmission shop. On average, a new transmission will cost an estimated 670 dollars.

Look at the front part of the rear end where the driveshaft bolts to it and you will find it in the housing. It will be on the passenger side of the rear end housing where the driveshaft hooks to the rear end.

First thing to remove are the brake lines, I used a nail to plug them so all of the brake fluid doesn't drain out. The brake lines should be going into the backside of the drum. If you don't have a line wrench just use an open end to unthread them. Next disconnect the emergency brake cables. They will be going into the brake drum, to get them free remove the brake drum and you should see where the cables entered from the back. Undo them and move them out of the way. The next piece to be removed is the drive shaft. I would unbolt it from the rear u-joint and then pull it out and set it aside. Then either use a socket with a breaker bar and WD-40(or similar) or an oxy acetylene torch to remove the u bolts. The axle shouldn't have anything else attached to it and will be free from the truck.

I think he meant, one (or two) axles. Take off the middle thing housing the gears on the rear-end. (mine was 10 bolts) (there is gear oil. probably limited slip around 80 weight?---so have a drain pan underneath). (don't forget to have the gasket for this part you just removed, and also maybe the seals for the axles or the new axle if that is what you need). turn the insides with a wheel or the driveline. look for the /glide floss mini metal pack diameter/ umm...maybe a tad smaller than a quarter-a tad bigger than a nickel diameter peg end, you will see. Look for the end with the small set-screw bolt. (5/32s socket). use a 6 sided socket, you do not want to strip this part where it is, you'll be up a creek. Take out that peg thing. turn the insides till you see the section where you can see these C-clips. Get it so you can get them out. gravity or gently helping will do it. the existing grease and stuff will keep them in place, mostly. pull the axles from the sides in- and/or -out to see the sides of the clips. (might be on the side where you see the rectangular metal block-- on either side of this part). once the C-clip is out, the axle will slide out easy-peasy. reverse to get back together. I suggest not removing anything other than the set-screw, the peg thing, and the C-clips from inside that middle section. I think that is it.

Yes. First generation Camaro, 67-69, rear axles will fit under 55-57 Chevys. They are all the same width. You just have to change spring perches. The stock 55 E brake cables will work also.

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Sounds like you have a (auto trans???). The vehicle safety switch is allowing you to start the engine because it thinks you are in park or neutral. If this is the case, check the linkage at the trany end. Diconnect the linkage at the trany and try to shift gears by hand. If there is little to no resistance, drop the pan and check to see if the "detent" assembly has a broblem. This ( the detent) is what keeps spring loaded pressure on things and is the resistance you feel when you shift the trany by hand. Look up DETENT in the dictionary for a profesional desciption.

Unless there is an actual drain plug on the pan then you have to remove the bolts holding the pan. R.W.

not really. First, the wheel bolt pattern is different. The 92 has a 5x5" bolt pattern. The 78 sedans and coupes have a 5x4.75" pattern. Also, the 92 has an ABS sensor in the snout of the center section (this isn't a deal breaker, but can't be taken out). The biggest problem is that while the rears look simillar, the trail arm angles and placement and the actual width of the rear are not exactly the same on the two years. Your better bet is to find a rear out of any 77-90 GM B-body. All of them will fit. The only exception is that all wagons and all Cadillacs and Buicks are big bolt pattern (5x5"). Olds may also be big bolt.

GM B-bodies include Chevy Caprice and Impala, Pontiac Parisienne and full size Bonneville, Buick Electra, Oldsmobile Delta 98, Cadillac Fleetwood.

If it is gear ratio that you are concerned about, remember that 3.08 and numerically lower use a different size carrier than the 3.23 and numerically higher. If your rear is good and you just want a better gear ratio, I would recommend getting a new carrier and ring and pinion. The whole thing shouldn't be much more than about $600. The 78 should have a 2.76 rear if it came out with a 305 engine. If I were you, I'd just keep the rear you have and put a 3.08 gear set in it. That will give you plenty of extra torque but still yield good mileage.

75W-90 is typically used as an "all around" gear oil for medium and heavy duty truck diffs.

3.42