Dodge Stratus

Remove fuel tank access through top of tank

Trouble code P0340 means:Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction

May be the oil sending unit in the oil pan. 97? it could be external. Yes, it is the oil pressure sending unit. Easy and inexpensive part to get fixed.

I had the same problem on my '97 Stratus with the 2.5l V-6. I replaced the oil pressure switch ($16 from NAPA), cleaned up the connector to the switch and the problem was solved. The switch is located just above the oil filter and you'll have to remove the filter to get to it. On a 4 cylinder it is on the rear of the block, to the left of center.

I may have earned a C+ in English but the best way to hook a reader is easier said than done. Getting the person to comprehend the story and stay intact is by thinking outside the box and coming up with a poetic fashion to begin. Plus it helps to keep a thesaurus handy because using the the same words repetitively is very antagonizing. An example of a hook is describing a character in the beginning of the tale like this: "A teenage boy standing on his own two feet grinning from ear to ear with optimism filling the air all around him. His glittery hazel eyes tempts other girls to flirt and awe for hours on end with his blonde greasy hair and darkened skin tone, He looks back at you letting you know, what's not to love?"

You will need to remove the intake hose from the throttle body by loosening the hose clamp on the throttle body.

This is important: BE SURE you disconnect all sensors from the intake hose.

Note: There may be a couple hoses still connected to the intake hose. You should not need to remove it. If you have to, do so.

Remember to reinstall it/them.

Now, locate two tabs that are on the air box (plastic box at the end of the hose opposite from the throttle body) facing the firewall.

Note: the air filter may be connected the intake hose

Once all the sensors are disconnected and the clamp is loosened, press the tabs (in or out) and pull the hose towards the firewall.

If the air filter did not come out with the intake hose, it is lying in the air box.

To reinstall reverse the order. Be sure the tabs a pressed into the air box, and throttle body clamp is tight, but not too tight.

NOTE: BE SURE ALL HOSES AND SENSORS ARE RECONNECTED.

Call your local wrecking yard. They have interchange manuals and software.

yes it will sohc and dohc.

not sure they will Stratus has the exhaust manifold in front, neon in the rear

4.5

Pop the trunk, there are three plastic wing nuts that hold the lens to the body (one is hidden under the carpet which can be removed by two screws), remove the wing nuts, pull the lens away from the body. On the back side of the lens twist the grey cap firmly that holds the bad bulb and remove cap. Pull the bad build out replace with a new bulb.

Remove wheel

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Rotor should slide off hub Remove wheel

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Rotor should slide off hub

Kiss my bum

In the trunk, under the spare tire cover.

behind the glove box or kick panel on passenger side

acetylene and hammer

Your water pump may have seized up which in turn snapped your timing belt. Get that checked out before you get your engine rebuilt. That is what happened to mine.

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== == The clue is the over heating condition...........the engine is SEIZED, meaning it is stuck and needs to be rebuilt by a engine shop. If the engine cannot be turned over by hand, it is seized. Put the trans in neutral, and use your hands to try to turn the engine by pushing on the pulleys or by pulling on the belts. If it won't turn, it is cooked. When an engine is super heated, metal parts expand and get bigger, so that things that normally have clearance, now are hitting each other. Have it checked by a professional mechanic, to be sure about this.

You have a short to ground or a bad connection that is causing the circuit to "draw" too many amps, causing the fuse to go out. This will be hard to diagnose. Sometimes the wires in the distributer module area inside the distributer cover will crack with age and allow the spark out to ground. Could be a bad module or igniter module on firewall.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm? did they chop into your ignition circuit to add an engine kill? That is often a cause. check your battery clamps first. If there is a crustiness, that will cause a current problem. Always check your battery before all else. 9 out of 10 it originates there. Good luck. sounds like mechanic time...

There is a fault. Could be as simple as low fluid, but that usually lights the "BRAKE" indicator. The ABS goes through a startup check which will light the light if there isn't an adequate response on ABS function. The ABS unit probably needs to be repaired or replaced if it isn't low fluid or doesn't clear after a few starts. There could also be a problem in one of the brake lines or calipers. UNless you are a mechanic, I'd take it to a dealer or certified brake repair place. If the ABS unit light is on, it is likely the ABS will not work. You'll still have brakes, just no ABS. BUT - I'd get it checked out to make sure the car is safe.

I had the ABS light stay on in my 99 Old Intrigue and it cost me $1366.03 to fix it at the dealer. Obviously they just replaced it instead of tryin to fix it. That's what dealers do because time is money. This was the breakdown: GM Part: VLV K REM (18060807) Price:$654.41, GM Part: Core Sale (18060807) Price:$56.00, GM Part: Core Retu Price $56.00, GM Part: Motor Kit (18024482) Price: $371.82, GM Part: Fluid Price: $8.38 Labor:$259 Tax:$72.42 This was to install a bake modulator and ABS Motor Pack.

its not gettn no sparks at all

If you feel like spending several thousand Dollars, you can get a machine which will evacuate the refrigerant and oil, store it, recharge your system, pull a vacuum to leak test the system.. our shop recently got one from Cornwell tools, and it was right around $6000. Oh.. the machine also requires a cylinder of R134a, which you can't buy without the corresponding ASE certification.

There's a simpler method.. all it requires is a vacuum pump, R134a cylinder, a scale, and a manifold gauge set... oh, wait... the R134a cylinder again. Well, guess that's not going to work so well for you.

But, that's alright. Because the thing of it is, is that you've (maybe) lost refrigerant from a 2001 model year vehicle. If that doesn't seem unusual to you, I've never had to add refrigerant or PAG to my vehicle, which is a 1997 model year. While it's not unheard of to lose enough refrigerant through connections to where it won't provide sufficient cooling, you have reason to suspect a malfunction of some form.

See, just because your AC isn't blowing hot air, it doesn't mean that you don't have enough refrigerant. There are seven operating conditions for diagnosing an AC system, which are based on the pressure readings taken from the high and low sides of the system while it is in operation. Condition one is normal operation, while the remaining ones all lead to insufficient cooling. Thus, there are a number of reasons an AC system may not cool properly... you could have a bad low pressure switch, you could have blockage in the system, you could have bent condenser fins which don't allow sufficient airflow through in order to allow the heat exchange to take place, you could have a leak which is allowing refrigerant to escape, your compressor might not be functioning properly, etc., etc., etc.

Why you don't get sufficient cooling from your AC system requires a diagnosis. Because if it is, say, a blockage in your system, adding refrigerant isn't going to do anything for you. And if it is low refrigerant as the result of a leak, then you're going to want to get that repaired - otherwise, the refrigerant is just going to leak right back out again.

I'd recommend you find a reputable shop, and have them do a system performance test (which should come with a refrigerant purity test, as well) in order to determine the cause of your AC system's performance.

By the way, when you use one of those DIY AC recharge kits from Wal Mart, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Advanced Auto Parts, etc., you don't evacuate the system beforehand - you simply add refrigerant to whatever you have left in your system.

You need to have the ABS system scanned with a computer to determine the reason for the light staying "on"

IF the code is not written in the owners manual(J0001-3580 or L0001-3580) then you can either go to dealership and have them cut the key for you. Or, you can have a locksmith do it. You can save money by bringing the locksmith the passenger side door cylinder. The reason I'd take passenger side is there's less electronics in the door and usually has less wear. The door and ignition share all the same cuts. The 1997 Dodge Ram also did not have a transponder key that year.

I think you can call the dealership and give them the VIN number and they can get you the right key.

Yes, it is part of the pump module in the tank.

With great difficulty!

have a look at the following link it'll answer everything you need

www.206info.co.uk/ForumsPro/viewtopic/t=26104.html

Go to peugeot give them your car reg and get a replacement rheostat or control resistor as they are sometimes known for the heater.

Then go home!

Make a nice cup of tea as you will be going a while!

Then get hold of a Torx 20 Screwdriver and a torch.

You will need to take out the Glovebox so you may as well empty it first.

You need to take the cover off the Glovebox open it but don't let it all way down just pull it out while it's still vertical otherwise it doesn't come out.

Then you need to take out the screws behind the Glovebox cover with the T20 screwdriver and also if you look closely there is another screw inside the Glovebox facing upwards, ( I missed that for a while! )

OK once you have taken all of those out you should be able to push the Glovebox down and out there will be some wires attached to the left hand side, detach them taking note of how they go in.

Right Glovebox out!

Now you need to take out the fan blower.

SO what you need to do is stick your torch and head in behind the Glovebox and if you look as if towards the central console but from behind you will see a round looking object with one screw in.

You need to take that screw out and then turn the thing clockwise. ( This will be really really tight so you need to twist hard, it took me a good few attempts )

Once you have dislodged it there is a clip that goes into the top of the fan for the power, you must take that out and then pull the blower out.

Once you have done this you can reach inside the air duct and you will feel the rheostat. Grab hold of it, twist it to unlock it from its place and pull it towards you.

Once you have done that, then just unplug it out of the socket and then plug the new one in, then push it back to where it was and twist it back to lock it into place.

Put the fan back in and plug the wire in making sure you don't get the wire caught in the air duct.

Screw fan screw back in.

Replace Glovebox!

your done!

Will save you over a £100 in labour charges .....................

we found out that we need to press the ignition "reset button" where is this?

jump start it.