Ford E-150 Van

There are markings on the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. When one is lined up with a notch in the rear timing belt cover, the other should be lined up with the 10 degree mark on the front timing belt cover. Note that you will probably have to remove the front right wheel and splash guard to see one set of markings and the front timing belt cover to see the other.

You will have to remove the inner door panel with a screwdriver by prying it away from door. It is just held in place with plastic clips. Then remove three 10mm nuts holding your mirror to the door. With mirror removed there are 3 small torqe scres that will need to be removed, then just rotate the plastic cap out of the way and tighted the 4 slighly larger torque bits (I think the are T-25's)Just follow the reverse to put back to gether

i have 97 ram, with the same issue. after many hours of trying i ended up braking the black plastic off from around the base of the mirror. after that i found 3 screws that come in from in side the door, getting the piece of plastic off will not be EZ, but after that there are 4 screws that hold the mirror in place. a litte lock tite and an Allen wrench and you set.

If it's a relatively new Transit then it's not a 'house' but an upward pointing arrow. It's suggesting that you are at the point of rpm where you should be changing up to the next gear.

its in the trunk turn switch off and back on

Since oxygen sensors are always in the exhaust system, that's where you'd find it. There are at least two and as many as four on any late model vehicle with a V-8.

Start at 1 1/2 turns from seat and then adjust for the best idle

I recently had the same problem, the local Jaguar dealer, repaired Valve cover gaskets replaced. Oil leaked into the cylinders had to replace coils, plug, gasket, and few others parts. Over $2500 repair

remove bake calipers remove conter cap on rotor grease cap remove cotter pin remove castle nut by turning counter clockwise (lefty loosey) tap rotor washer and outer wheel bearing will pop out dont let bearing land in dirt is is greasy iand will attract every piece of debris it can grab .. grab rotor with both hands and pull straight out and rotor is off. if van has 75,000 plus miles i reccomend you replace with new inner and outer bearings. and new grease seals. for both sides you will need to purchase 2 new rotors, 2 outer and 2 inner wheel bearings , 2 grease seals one tub of premiun wheelw bearing grease and one can of of brake parts cleaner. also put new brake pads no matter how thick they look. neww rotors come with bearing races so you need to repack wheel bearings this means with clean hands and the card board from bearing box you must force gease into bearing until you cant get any more grease in. go on you tube video and watch a video if not familiar with packing a bearing. next take both rotors out of box a spay rotors both side in in bearings holes the reason for this is rotors are sprayrd with protective coating so they dont rust while sitting on shelf. all of it must be cleaned usind and old clean towel or clean shirt. after chemical bath. dry completly.face rotor with large hole facing andscoop a generous amount a grease into center of rotor nextplace packed larger bearing taper facing in to bearing race. dont forget you will have 4 extra races when job is done because 4 races came with your 2 new rotors.after placing bearing in get you new grease seal find a pie or a large socket the same diameter as the seal this will help install the seal without bending or distorting it tap seal untill it goes into its seat and stops.before placing new rotors on axles clean old grease of of axle shaft you can use brake cleaner remember contamination in grease will cause premature bearing failure push rotor onto axle with a rocking back and forth motion make sure it goes in all the way take newly repacked outer bearing push in with bothe fingers place washer over bearing pay attention that the axle has a groove (key) ground into it.aligne washer key with axle key now take castle nut and screw in using aabout a 8 inch wrench tighten screw while spinning rotor you want to screw nut tight then back it up unti new cotter pin lines up with hole in axle. bend pin over and cut excess off so it does not click on grease cap turn rotr by hand if it turns with resistance your nut is too tight if you cann wiggle ror side to side and feel loosness you nut is too loose is satisfied tap grease cap with rubber mallot until it seats all the word do not bend cap or it will fall off and allow moisture and road grime. then pat yousely on the back for savine 175 dollars labor

fuses are located drivers side near steering column & some are located dr. side , middle of van in floor level compartments.

Open the rear doors and between the floor and the bumper is a small opening (usually covered for theft reasons and may require a screwdriver or socket to remove).

This will give you access to crank the spare tire cable down using the tool for adjusting the scissor jack provided with the vehicle.

Blown fuse.

Right behind the distributor.

The flasher is located under the dash board on the drivers side in the fuse box.

1 billion dollars

Go to www.motorcraftservice.com look on the left side of page click on owners guide. free download.

Check out http://vehicleownersmanuals.blogspot.com/

If you open the driver door there should be a sticker somewhere on the door frame that shows the specifications for factory recommended psi for each tire. But you also want to make sure the max. psi on the equipped tires can hold the specified amount of air without going over. To do that read on the black wall of the tire and it will tell you max. psi.

This strictly depends on the tow set-up you have on your vehicle and how it is mounted to the vehicle. Look at the hitch, check the label. It will give you max tongue weight and max tow weight for you hitch. Keep in mind, these numbers are advisories. If your hitch is permanently welded to the frame of the vehicle, they can be trusted, however if the hitch is bolted on or temporarily attached, I would not put anymore than 1000 pounds less than the rated weight of the hitch. For example, if the hitch says maximum weight capacity of 6500 lbs, don't load more than 5500 lbs for temporarily mounted or bolted hitches. As far as what the vehicle can handle, call or stop by your local Ford service department, they will generally let you know for free.

Try pouring some clam chowder into it, it's my fav

it is probable the gauge regulator or sensor in the fuel tank that is on fuel pump. Drop tank and clean contacts on it or replace whole fuel pump assemble.

Tits

You don't. Pulling those bolts often leads to breaking them which leads to re-tapping the block to get a new manifold on, which will just do the same thing once it ages a year or so. It is a poor design, I ended up welding mine on to shut it up. :/

no

On a 1999 Ford E-150 , 4.6L :

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

* I don't know how the spark plug wires are numbered on the ( 2 ) coil packs *

Try looking behind the passenger side kick panel. That is where it is on my 94.

On a 1999 Ford E-150 , 4.2 liter V6 engine :

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front of vehicle

This is the sensor that determines if the ignition is going to set off right. If something is going wrong, it will not work correctly.