Ford Escape XLS

you must remove the caliper for the brakes,pull off the rotor,remove the axle nut which is a 36mm socket also unbolt the bottom shock,unhook bottom ball joint, my self i took off the whole spindle there is much more room to slide the axle out.now there are six bolts on the in side of the axle the socket size is a 15mm with a long extention if you don't have a air tools loosen the bolts on the end of the axle first before you pull of the spindle so the axle wouldn't turn on you so easy,its not that hard just use common sence

i would just get the entire drive axle..do it your self, it may ba alot cheaper.Hope this helps

The V6 would be ( 6 ) cylinders

It simply bolts on and has 2-3 wires and batt cable attached. Disconnect battery, then lift car if you need room to squeeze in underneath, remove wires/batt cable. Remove bolts to block (2 or 3) Take care removing last one-starters weigh about 50 lbs. It is an easy task with basic tools

Front disc brake caliper bleeder screw: between 13-18 ft. lbs

mercon V,im sure the other will work. Best bring to a dealer. But if you can access a tranny flush machine. Drop the skid plate, and the lines are right there. Also i belive you should use Mercon VI

These coatings were used in such durable goods markets as automobiles, aircraft, appliances, furniture, metal containers, sheet and coil metals, and industrial equipment.

You can find a diagram of the parts under the hood of a car inside the owner's manual. You can also find it in the vehicle's Chilton auto repair manual.

block the wheels jack uo and put in your safety stands remove tire remove brake caliper and rotor remove the axle nut now the fun begins!! use a 3 jaw puller and pull off the hub then remove the 2 tourqe rods from the rear housing Idid this so not to disturbe the ball joints remove the lower shock bolt and drop the spindle down and pull the axle out off the hole then remove the snap ring from the front off the bearing then with a good punch and hammer drive the old bearing out and then drive the new one in carefully as not to damage it oh ya don't forget to take the bolts out of the flex line and abs sensor so that you don't stretch them good luck!!

Many factors can contribute to shaking in the front end of a vehicle; and, although an alignment coupled with balancing the tires diminishes the possibility that the components involved in these procedures may cause this problem, they are not altogether eliminated from suspicion. Let's take the tire/wheel combination. The tire/wheel combination can be balanced with something inside. If the valve stems were replaced, and the old stem was removed with the tire mounted to the wheel(but 'broken-down'), the possibility exists that a portion of this old valve stem fell into the tire when the stem was pulled out of its hole; and, the small portion inside will roll around until it reaches the same speed as the rotating tire. This is how the tire is then balanced. When the wheel is subsequently installed onto the car, with the balancing weights affixed to the rim, the small rubber stem-bottom is rolling around inside the tire. Now, when the tire rolls down the road, not only is it improperly balanced, but that little rubber gremlin adds to the problem by again moving all around until it begins to spin at the same speed as the tire--- at which time it is nowhere near any point which would balance the tire. The only cure for this is to break the tire back down, remove the rubber remnant of the valve stem, remove the balancing weights, air the tire back up, and re-balance the tire/wheel combination once more. Other possible causes have missed notice on many occasions: A separating tire, a bent wheel, an out-of-round tire, a badly seated tire, and a tire/wheel combination into which tire sealant(Fix-a-Flat?) has been introduced. Tire sealant is particularly notorious for leaving a pool of liquid inside the tire, causing much the same problem as the valve-stem scenario, but without the telltale noise of something rolling around inside when checked. This stuff has to be sopped-out of the tire with a towel. Only then can the tire be properly balanced with the rim. If the tires, wheels, and tire/wheel combinations are in good shape, an alignment can be performed--- if the suspension and steering are tight. This brings up a point: An alignment is an adjustment procedure. The purpose of an alignment is to restore the steering and suspension geometry to the specifications found by the engineers of that vehicle which provide the optimum compromise between handling, stability, control, and wear factors. This is achieved at a specific loading of the vehicle, at a specified ride-height, with a certain amount of gasoline in the tank. An alignment may also be performed on a vehicle which has suffered some types of damage which necessitate attention be given to the rear axle areas as well as the front. This introduces the four-wheel alignment and the thrust-alignment. While settings exist for effecting corrective measures where geometry can be adjusted back into line, no bent part is usable if found: It must be replaced. Much inspection, therefore, is given to parts when an alignment is performed; but, some things are not always clearly evident. When weak struts which cause a vehicle to bounce are found, the finding is usually presented to the customer, who makes the decision for or against replacement. These WILL cause tire wear; and, the cupping of the tires can cause the front end to shimmy. When tie-rod ends are inspected, they may not be loose; but, on rack-and-pinion steering, the inner tie-rod-ends often go undiagnosed as a culprit until a customer complains. At this point, a good technician can find the wear and know the customer will not feel harassed by the news. Lower ball-joints usually require a procedure to be used whereby the joint is 'unloaded' in order for wear to be determined; and, this takes time--- time many customers do not have. If there's nothing outwardly evident of joint failure, the joint is given a visual once-over and a cursory tug at the edge of the wheel. If no exotic movement is felt, all is okay--- until the customer complains. At this point, the customer has the time for the inspection; and, they are ready to make repairs. As far as control-arm bushings, much the same can be said. Ditto for sway-bar bushings. As far as connecting links for the sway-bar ends, these are visual; and, when a customer can be shown the wear, replacement is forthright. Literally, anything which is loose or worn to a certain degree that otherwise should be 'tight' in the suspension or steering can cause a shimmy. This may be observable by routine inspection or special inspection and testing. Some problems may be remedied through low-end replacements, while some may be costly. If CV-joints are coming apart, allowing the shafts to rotate in an orbit rather than concentrically, money is involved. If front wheel bearing assemblies are needed, money is involved. If a lower steering sector has a worn sector-shaft bushing, money is involved to replace the unit. If a couple of shocks are needed, the money expended is less. If the shimmy you feel is only at the times when you apply your brake, this should be conveyed to the detective(mechanic) charged with finding the problem; because, while YOU know this as a 'shimmy' in the front-end, HE knows this as 'pulsation' from warped BRAKE rotors being transmitted to the steering. In this case, a little extra in the way of communication can save a lot of time and inconvenience; and, your car will receive the proper attention sooner.

The height of the 2002 Ford Escape is 5 ft. 9.1 in. (69.1 in.).

The engine air filter is on the driver side and is easily replaced. The cover is hinged on the left, and 2-pressure clamps on the right that can be done by hand pressure alone.

To change the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve on a 2005 Ford Escape with a 2.3L engine, first, locate the PCV valve, which is usually found on the valve cover or nearby. Disconnect the hose attached to the PCV valve and remove the valve itself by twisting or pulling it out. Install the new PCV valve by pushing it into place and reconnecting the hose. Finally, ensure everything is secure before starting the engine to check for proper operation.

The black box under the battery in a 2002 Ford Escape is likely the power distribution box or fuse box. This component houses fuses and relays that control various electrical systems in the vehicle, such as lighting, ignition, and accessories. It's essential for managing the electrical flow and protecting the circuits from overloads. If you need to access it, make sure to disconnect the battery first to avoid any electrical issues.

On a 2003 Ford Escape, the block heater cord is typically located near the front of the engine, often near the driver's side, and can be found near the oil pan or the front of the vehicle. It usually emerges from the engine block and may be tucked away for protection. You may need to look underneath the vehicle or at the front grille area to locate it, as it can sometimes be hidden or coiled up.

To remove the brake caliper on a 2001 Ford Escape, you'll typically need a 3/8-inch Allen wrench (hex key). However, it's always good to verify with your specific model or check the owner's manual, as variations can occur depending on the specific brakes installed.