Ford Escort LX

Takes a professinal to make any internal adjustments to the transmission.

No it isn't possible since they are hydraulic valves and are self adjusting.

Put your seat belt on. It's there to keep you from expiring.

The PCV valve is in the crankcase vent tube It is on the right of the exhaust heat shield below the ignition wires going into the coil.

Not sure if it's the same for your car, but on the '95 1.9L, you have to remove the dash cluster. Remove the negative battery cable to prevent accidental airbag deployment if equiped. Start with the trim, remove screws and wiggle it past the steering wheel. Then there's a few more screws to remove the clear plastic cover and the white dash assembly. There will be a few electrical connectors on either side that need to be removed. And it'll be tricky to get your fingers to release the speedometer cable from the speedometer gauge... take your time. Then use some needlenose pliers and pull the old cable out. Lube up the new cable slide it in - make sure it's all the way, and reassemble.

Good luck, my friend. I tried to get mine out this past summer, spent about a week, and gave up. Ended up getting a transmissionplace to replace it and they had a hell of a time getting it out too. I guess the gears get meshed some awkward way preventing easy removal. Which is funny, because my car manual literally says, "remove the retaining bolt, then pull the sensor out". Yeah right. But seriously, you might wanna consider having someone pull it out for you. In case you wanna try, you first wiggle the speedo cable out of the top of the speedometer gear in the tranny. (there's a little metal retaining clip holding it in that you can probably get away without removing) And there should be a single bolt that holds a metal clip keeping the speedometer drive gear down. That's it. "Just remove" after that. Best of luck.

IT COULD BE A WORN ENGINE MOUNT. TO BE SURE, PUT YOU CAR IN GEAR PRESS THE BRAKE APPLY THE E-BRAKE AND ACCELERATE THE CAR IF YOU FEEL THE SAME SHAKING IS YOUR ENGINE MOUNTS. (BE Careful)

try from the motor compartment? I just replaced my heater core in my 1995 ford escort. You have to take the dash completely out of the car, unhook your negative battery cable, then unhook the hoses on the back firewall, there will be 2 about right in the center of the firewall, they are hooked to your heater core. While you are under the hood, unclip the speedometer cable(needs to be done to get the cluster panel out.) You have to drop your steering wheel before you can get the cluster panel out, take out the cluster panel, radio, heater controls, glove box. The core is IN the plastic housing, so the housing has to come out to change it. Lots of screws and wires to keep track of, so make sure you remember where everything goes. Took me quite awhile, but saved me about $500.00 to do it myself. Denise To add to the above answer, you also have to remove the glove compartment/box. You should be able to see the heater core housing clearly then. To by-pass it you have to unhook both hoses going into the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Get a hose connector from a parts store or home improvement store. One for a garden hose will work also. Connect those two hoses together. Make sure you use hose clamps. You now bypassed the heater core.

Cabin air filters are typically found in the glove box, under the glove box in the dash or in a filter box connected somewhere along the vehicle's "firewall".

Disconnect the battery so you don't blow the air bag.

Remove the trim panels under the dash board. The ignition switch is connected to the lock cylinder by a rod. Remove the screws that hold the switch in place and then remove the rod from the lock cylinder.

Rick

I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com

No, the parts on these vehicles are not interchangeable/compatible with each other.

You could use Mercury Tracer parts though.

If you are asking about valve timing there are two marks. One on the top which is a mark on the cam pulley which is lined up with the mark on the head and there is a mark on the crankshaft pulley which is aligned with a mark on the oil pump housing.

You need a new IAC Idle Air Control.

1. Remove the steering wheel and the upper and lower steering column covers.

2. Take the connectors off the multi-function switch and remove it with the screw that hold it to the steering column.

3. Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connectors.

4. Remove the switch mounting screws and take the switch off.

5. Installation is the reverse.

I was looking at the 1997 Ford Escort Owner Guide and it shows :

" the brake fluid reservoir and the clutch master cylinder are part of the same

unit " Both are refillable at the brake reservoir using DOT 3 brake fluid

I HAVE 2 89 IROCS BOTH WITH 350s,I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.TURNS OUT THE MOTOR GETS VERY HOT AND HEATS UP THE STARTER,WICH THEN SHUTS OFF THE ENGINE.THE FIX?BUY A HIGH PERFOMANCE STARTER FOR ABOUT 200$ OR BUY A 40$ BLANKIT AND WRAP THE STARTER TO PROTECT IT FROM HEAT.I DID ONE ON EACH ONE FIXED!

You don't, It is totally controlled by the PCM using the IAC valve.

Transaxle Fluid Level Check The transaxle fluid level should be checked only after the vehicle has been parked on level ground for some time. 1. Be sure the vehicle is on level ground and apply the parking brake. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). 3. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the VSS. 4. Remove the retaining bolt and pry out the VSS. 5. Check the fluid level as shown. In the service manual figure shown full level at the upper border of VSS gear and low level at the bottom border of the VSS gear 6. If necessary, add transaxle fluid as explained in this section. 6.1 Place a funnel into the VSS mounting hole. 6.2 Add the specified transaxle fluid until the "full" level on the VSS is reached. Installation 7. Install the VSS. 8. Install the VSS bolt and tighten it to 8-12 N-m (69-104 lb-in). 9. Connect the speedometer cable. 10. Connect the electrical connector.

First I downloaded the lighting system service manual from http://x.nissanhelp.com. It had a rudimentary diagram of the tail light assembly that was somewhat helpful.

The next step is to push back the lining inside the trunk which covers the access to the nuts which hold the taillight assembly fastend to the vehicle. There are nylon tie downs which hold the small cargo net in place. In the center of the nylon tie down are small inserts whihch must be removed. Take a small flat edge screw driver or needle nose pliers and work the center piece out of the tie down. Next, remove the tie down by pulling on the top of the tie down.

The next step was to remove the electrical connector to the light assembly. There is a tab/button at the top of the connector that you push to make the disconnect. I then pushed the rubber grommet with the light assembly wiring back through the penetration so it was with the light assembly. However, unless you are replacing the entire tail light assembly, there is no need to disconnect this connector.

Next I removed two 8 mm nuts from the bolts attached to the light assembly. On mine, there were two tie downs that used the threaded ends of the bolt studs to attach. They had to be worked back and forth a bit, but they came off the studs and were re-usable.

Once you've got the two nuts off, the assembly can be rocked back and forth from the exterior of the trunk. At this stage, I still couldn't remove the assembly so I had to take a look for any other fasteners that might be keeping the assembly captive.

If you look from inside the trunk on the far side of the light assembly (closest to the fender sheet metal), there are three penetrations. At this point, the top most and the center bottom are what is holding the assembly in place. The bottom most penetration has a different appearance and is not related to the removal of the light assembly, you can ignore this one.

These penetrations had a small tab on their visible side that was making it difficult to push them back through the sheet metal. I had to trim the tab from the side of these penetrations with a utility knife (I only trimmed the visible side, I didn't try to reach around). I only took off the very small side node that was acting to prevent the penetration from moving back through the hole. Once they were trimmed, I gently tapped them with a light rubber mallet. There was some adhesion with the surrounding sheet metal, but the eventually came loose and allowed the removal of the entire light assembly.

Wait!!! I just changed the light and no shaving is required. You have to push the bolts though as much as you can. Once you do this you will be able to see the plastic guides that go into the part that was originally thought needed to be shaved off. Take a thin screwdriver and work out the plastic part wiggling with some pressure to what you are comfortable with and it will pop free.

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The headlight has two notched studs and two threaded bolts holding it onto the car. The notched studs are friction fit into the two plastic keepers that are visible in the trunk on the far outside of the car towards the side panel. The plastic keepers top and middle (ignore bottom) are supposed to stay in the vehicle and the headlight is supposed to be pulled straight back out of the car body after the two nuts are removed, well basically straight. Now saying this and doing it are two different things. There is nothing to grab onto to do this. I used a thin screwdriver on the top keeper as mentioned above after the two nuts were removed while pulling back. I then was able to get the top edge of the light to move 1/4" or less away from the car. A popsicle stick might help to wedge as you work it back. I was then able to get a grasp on the upper and the inside edge from the rear of the car and pull back until the notched studs popped loose from their plastic keepers.

Watch out for two small rubber squeak eliminators attached to the taillight body. They are supposed to support and also keep the tail light from rubbing on the car body. They are on the inside edge. One of mine fell off. There are 4 bulbs in the housing, which of course are exposed to the weather in a brilliant bit of design, irrespective of bulb seals.

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Improved: Please note that you don't need to remove the penetrations. Don't touch them. Similarly, you don't need to unplug the electric connection. These two steps are unnecessary. After removing the two nuts, simply grab on to the light assembly from the outside start shaking and pulling it off. It will eventually come off. The whole process is much simpler. I just replaced my tail light and it was reletively easy thing to do.

Good Luck!

No. They are different part numbers.

An Escort water pump is located under the timing cover and is driven by the timing belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle, remove the following: RF wheel, front motor mount, serpentine belt, belt tensioner crankshaft pulley, timing cover, and timing belt, to gain access to and replace the water pump. It is recommennded that you install a new timing belt when you replace the water pump.

it could be your turn signal/windshield wiper/hi-lo beam switch on the steering wheel has gone bad ---- See "Related Questions" below for another thing to try out - WD-40 in the hazard switch...

Use 10-30