Ford Escort LX

2400 lbs.

Yes. My Mercury Tracer has an engine directly out of a Ford Escort (same year).

Typically rotors come from the factory covered with a waxy material to prevent rust. Yes, it's a good idea to remove that material before using the brakes.

check the idle speed with the car in gear, if it has a tac on the dash it should idle in gear at about 700 rpm if its too low the car will vibrate or stall.

2000.00

i have a 2000 ford expedition, min did the same thing....twice. first time had a bad O2 sensor replaced that ran fine. second time was plugs Would help to know make and model of vehicle. But the most likely cause is an engine miss due to a bad plug wire or plug or a dead cylinder [no compression]. Other causes could be a vacuum leak or the fuel/air mixture may be way off. The engine is still missing at higher speeds you just don't notice it as the higher engine speed simply covers it up. This is why engine misses are usually diagnosed only at idle or under load while the vehicle is stationary. bestalucktoyou Check passenger side motor mount. A bad one will make the car vibrate at idle. The car very much may be out of time. At higher engine speeds you will not notice it. If you recently had the timing belt done or your timing belt jumped, would cause this. But first try a tune up.

One way is to:

1) disconnect the fuse for the power locks

2) press the power lock/unlock switch on the door panel, or keyless entry system as usual to operate the lock

3) the clicking sound is the power lock relay, which you can use to help locate it, although if it's under the dash, may still be difficult to find.

4) if there's no sound, then the relay is toast, and consulting a technical manual specific to your vehicle, or calling the dealer, is probably the only way

No it doesn't have an interference motor. This means if the timng belt breaks the valves won't go through the pistons.

Depends, if you are replacing all fluid it is about 4 to 5 quarts. There is a dip stick for measuring the right amount. Put some in, start the car and run it around the block going through some gears, then park the car, leave it running and check the dip stick. Add more if needed and repeat the process until at the full mark. Use this same process if just adding a little but run the car around the block and check the stick first.

On the front of the exhaust manifold you will see your sensor, otherwise, it may be before the catalytic converter on the underside of your car, it helps to go out and buy a special wrench made especially for removing the O2 sensor. Unplug the sensor from it's wiring, then use the wrench to remove the sensor, don't forget to spray it down with a good lubricant such as kroil or wd-40 an let it penetrate for a few minutes before attempting to remove it.

First off you didn't say why you would want to replace the brake line. I have never worked on a Ford Escort-- but almost all cars are the same. The brake line runing from the front of the car to the back is a metal tubing, and I will assume that is what you are wanting to replace. Usually the tubing hooks to the Master Cylinder at the front, and runs to the back to a "block" of somekind welded or bolted at the rear of the car. The "block" is there to be used to extend the brake lines farther. Usually the tube goes into the block, and than a soft line is ran from the other side of the "block" to the wheel cylinder which is located on the brake drum assembly. This way the soft tube (also part of the brake line system) can flex as the wheel travels up and down, which a hard line can not do. On some cars, that "block" is used to bring the fluid to the back of the car, going into the "block" and than two hard lines come back out and runs to each side of the car, than it goes into another "block" to allow the soft line to be installed to the wheel cylinder. The "block" is more or less an adapter and that's all it does. There is nothing inside those "blocks", its just a point to add more brake lines, that continue onto the wheel cylinder. NOW -- unless the tubing from the front to the back has been damaged, there is no reason to replace it since it is metal. You can disconnect it from the front, and at the rear block, and blow air thur it to make sure it is not clogged. If it isn't clogged than there is no problem with that brake line, unless you can see it leaking. If it is damaged, the first thing you need to do is follow it from front to back to see if it goes under the body and is easy to get to, some cars have the brake line running under the car, some cars have the brake line going thru the tunnel between the front seats and to the back of the car, and some cars have the brake line under the carpeting going to the back of the car. Under the car brake lines are easy to replace, they are usually just held in by clips attached to the frame. If the brake line goes thru the interior, than it maybe a real job to get to it and replace it. The other problem is the year of the car. Unless the dearlership still has factory brake lines for that year, you are kind of in a bind. You can buy brake line tubing and make your own, but you will need the tools to cut and bend the brake lines, and tools to attach the ends that are needed for the brake line, without the tools, you will have to take it to someone with the tools that can do that, you cannot bend the metal brake lines by hand, they kink, that's why you need a tube bender. And you need a flaring tool to be able to attach the ends needed to the brake line, and a tubing cutter to cut the brake line, hacksaws don't work to well for this type of job. I hope this has been of help to you, if you know what your doing, its not hard to replace brake lines or make your own, just takes a little practice.

The dash has to come out to get to the heater core. It's quite a job and this may be a job you want to hire someone else to do. The heater core in my 97 was leaking coolant so I put a small bottle of Alumaseal in the radiator. Some will say this will clog up the radiator, but I have found that not to be the case.

It stopped the leak. I have had no further problems.

It is fairly easy to change and is located under the car about midway between the engine and the tank. You need special tools but are cheap at the parts store.

Depending on what part of the year your car was manufactured it can also be attached to the firewall just to the driver/rear of the engine. no special tools are needed, just pull (or break) the clips holding it in and remove it. replace the old clips with the new ones in the box. removing the air filter housing and hose to throttlebody will also aid in getting it out. Have patience when removing it, it can be a pain.

Might be a stuck brake light switch its located at the top of the brake pedal

It should be in the glove box

I believe it is located under the passinger side seat? At least on my 89 LXi is where it is

Usually the loose gas cap problem code will clear itself after starting the engine a few times once the problem is solved. If you want to use an OBDII code scanner, most of the newer model scanners will allow you to clear codes as well.

Yes. Park on a level surface. Start the engine and leave it in park. Pull out the stick and wipe it off. Insert it back into the transmission. Pull it out again and read the level.

Stop light Switch is bad...costs about 6 bucks to replace it....its on the brake pedal itself

According to a website I was looking at :

For a 1998 Ford Escort , 2.0 liter four cylinder engine :

( 24 city / 34 highway , 5 speed manual )

( 22 / 31 , automatic )

* miles per U.S. gallon

IF YOU ARE UNSURE GO AND LOOK IN YOUR NEAREST SCRAPYARD AND SEE HOW IT IS WIRED IF THAT DOES NOT WORK PUT THE WIRES WHERE YOU THINK THEY GO AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS AFTER ALL ITS ONLY A HORN. PS I AM AN ELECTRICIAN

In the dist. Takeit to Auto zone and have them check it out.

I'm reading that this is a cracked cylinder, not the head, so I'd pretty much call the engine CRAP. The engine is not built to have the block welded or repaired in this way. If it's a bad cylinder (piston assembly) then that may be repaired, but as with most things, cost will depend on a lot of factors (area of the country and labor prices, replacement part prices, etc), and it may also require that the entire engine be overhauled. It may be less expensive, and possibly better in the long run, to have a new engine (shops rebuild them for resale, with a like-new warranty)installed. A junkyard engine may have similar problems, and you'll have spent a bunch of money for junk. whatever a new or remanufactured head costs. cracked heads must not be replaced, your welcome, mo the ford tech

I would check the ignition module located immediately to the right of your valve cover. A friend of mine has a Chevy Corsica that had the ignition control module or coil go bad and his car ran terrible. Ford stopped using distributors in Ford Escorts and their other 4 cylinder cars, because

the TFI module on the distributor were notorious for going bad.