Ford Escort LX

My 93 Escort GT had the fuel cut-off switch in the trunk, driver's side.

How to find the reason for not starting when turning the key over on a 1993 Ford escort lx

Use a nail or small pointed item and a hammer. That's how I did mine

Black smoke-you are burning oil, engine is worn out. White smoke-you probably have a blown head gasket. Good luck with either one, both are expensive to repair. The above answer is only partially correct. Black smoke is not oil burning. Black smoke is an overly rich fuel mixture. Blue smoke is burning oil and white smoke is coolant in the combustion chamber.

I tried following the instructions in my repair manual, which was a big mistake. They recommend removing the steering wheel, then the turn signal assembly, then 'unbolt' the ignition lock assembly. The wheel is very difficult to remove, even with the proper tools and the ignition assy has 'snapoff' bolt heads, which means they need to be drilled out -- next to impossible while in the car.

I highly, highly recommend removing the entire steering column. Sounds intimidating, but its a lot easier than it sounds. Six bolts hold it in place, plus a handful or connectors. I can remove one in about 30 minutes, but I've done it a few times before. Once out of the car, drill out the two bolt heads and the ignition assembly can be removed. No need to remove the steering wheel or turn signal assy. Two words of caution: 1.) The steering column has a couple of thin plastic pins that are designed to shear off in an accident, allowing the column to collapse (telescope). Be careful: one good whack with a hammer can shear these, destroying the column. 2.) Make sure the steering wheel is centered in its travel before installing, because if the internal turn signal wires. If you don't, the first hard turn will snap the turn signal wires.

Good luck.

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distributor cap diagram

I am researching this myself due to a faulty alarm that keeps me from starting my own car. As soon as I get the answer I'll pass it along.

You'll hear a howling/grinding sound coming from the front of your vehicle. Depending on which side it is, if the sound goes away when you move your steering

wheel to the right its your left hub assembly. If its when you pull steering left its your right

assembly.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. IMPORTANT. It has to be disconnected for a full minute to disarm the airbag.

2. Remove the screws holding the horn buttons on.

3. If equipped with an air bag remove the bolt from each side at the back of the steering wheel.

4. Pull the airbag off and disconnect the electrical connections. Always hold an airbag pointing away from you.

5. Remove the horn pad and disconnect the electrical connectons.

6. Mark the position the steering wheel is on the shaft with a dot of paint.

7. Remove the steering wheel nut or bolt.

8. Use a puller to take the wheel off.

Carefully

The 1995 Escort clutch has a single dry plate diaphragm spring type clutch. The clutch plate has a splined hub which allows it to slide along the splines on the input shaft. The clutch and pressure plate are held in contact by spring pressure exerted by the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate. During shifting when the clutch pedal is depressed, which transmits hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to the release cylinder, pushing on the release lever so the throwout bearing pushes on the diaphragm spring fingers, disengaging the clutch.

Timing

The timing belt tensioner is under the timing cover(you most likely have that off already). I believe it is a 14mm bolt keeping it down, loosen that bolt and remove the tensioner spring with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Don't drop the spring!

3.8 liters ( 232 cubic inch ) V6

If the answer below doesn't solve the problem, have the alternator checked, as the regulator may not be working properly. Have it checked fairly soon, as fluctuations like those you describe can harm the car's computer and electronics. Clean both battery cables good and make sure there is a good ground between the engine and body. This ground is important so make sure it is tight and clean {no paint or grease}

The most common problem I have seen with an automatic shifting hard without a pattern in the wrong fluid level. Check the tranny fluid with the car running after going through all of the gears. You can over-fill the transmission causing it to act up.

Make sure the oil isn't black also. Remember, the engine has to be at idle; a common error.

If it throws the "service engine soon" light; get it read free at a shop. If the oil is good and the light never came on; send a reply and I can help you further.

Your year of Escort takes R 12 refrigerant. It is no longer available in 14 oz cans. It does come in 20 lb. bulk. In 1994 Ford Escorts went to R-134a refrigerant which will not harm the ozone layer. Kits are made to change the earlier systems which take R12 over to R-134a which mainly involves changing the charge ports. You could take it to an A/C shop and they could recharge it with R12 or you could change the ports over and get a kit at the parts place to recharge it yourself. Detailed instructions come with the R134a charge kits.

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On a 1997 Ford Escort :

Open the drivers door and on the latch pillar you will see an information

sticker . One of the things the sticker shows is the original size of tires on

the vehicle from the factory

You'll have to explain more, to many things could have happened. What happened when it first cut off on you? Did it seem like any grinding or anything seized. Any abnormal smoke? Check your fuel pump first, then fuel filter, cap and rotor wires, plugs...

There is a recall on '97 sunfires ignition switches. My car wouldn't start and after trying it several times smoke started coming from the ignition column. they will install a relay switch w/ your ignition switch to convert high voltage away from it. If it doesn't start and you continually try it or hold it back too long it will start to burn as mine did A Pontiac dealership fixed it for free but I had to fight them on the towing costs. I would do a search on the recall or call a Pontiac/GM dealership and they can tell you if it goes towards yours... you!

Also check for other recalls such as the PCM recall.

Yes , Gates ( they make timing belts etc. ) shows it as an interference engine

Take the negative cable off the battery and wait 1 minute for the backup supply of current to dissipate in the air bag system.

1. Insert special tool (Ford T 87P-19061-A) to separate the radio from the mounting bracket. If you don't have the special tool you can us lengths of a coathanger.

2. Slip the radio out far enough to disconnect the antenna lead and electrical connectors.

3. Installation is the reverse of these steps.

This is actually much easier than most repair shops will tell you. We had the timing belt replaced on my son's fiance's '91 Escort at a cost of $750.00. When the belt on my '91 Escort let go, I replaced it in a little over 2 hours for $11.92, including tax!

My best advice to you is to invest about $12.00 (at my local AutoZone) for a small Haynes Repair Manual. This small manual will give you all of the instructions and photos needed to do the job. My water pump, idler pulley, and tensioning spring were all in good shape. Make sure you check these parts after you get the front end apart. Unless you have over 150,000 miles on your Escort, they're probably just fine.

I did find that it was easier to support the engine with blocking from underneath and pull the engine mount to get out the plastic timing belt cover. Other than that, the manual takes you through it step-by-step. It only requires basic tools (other than a puller for the crankshaft) and is quite a simple procedure.

If you don't have a gear puller, either buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight (that's what I used) or borrow one from your local parts house. AutoZone and Checker Auto loan their tools for free with only a deposit until you return them.

I would say "Good Luck", but you won't need it. It's really easier than it seems.

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Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. Starting with the right rear wheel, then left rear wheel, then right front wheel and lastly Left front wheel. As you are bleeding the brakes keep the reservoir full of fluid. Have some body pump up the brakes and hold it to the floor, Put a clear plastic hose over the bleeder valve into a container of brake fluid. As the assistant is holding the pumped up pedal to the floor, open the bleeder valve and watch for air bubbles in the container. Then, close the valve and have the assistant pump the pedal again and hold it to the floor. Open the valve and check for bubbles again. Do this on all four wheels until you get a GOOD pedal.