Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer

The warning light will stay on, in your 2003 Ford expedition, when there is an issue with the traction control system. A diagnostic tester will pinpoint the problem.

because of stupid star wars

behind the pass. side kick panel. good luck

I have a 1998 Ford Expedition, Eddie Bauer edition. Since this is the early version for most engines, follow the instructions & you'll be okay.

The hardest part is due to the fuel rails (polished tubing) underneath the 5.4L Triton Engine cowl plastic.

1. Unbolt and remove the cowl.

2. Remove the 2 bolts holding the polished duel rail tubing. (*Repeat this process for the opposite side or leave it alone and use the untouched side as an aid in assembly if you forget how it goes back together.*)

3. You will now have the coils exposed and you can begin your repairs. Each coil is held in place with a small 7mm bolt and take your time removing them due to their weak size.

4. Unplug each coil and then remove it carefully. The rubber can become stuck on the spark plugs and if this is the case, you can shatter the plug. ***Ford charges $100 per shattered plug, being slow and steady will pay off... literally.***

5. If you're changing the coils because they are causing the "check engine" light to appear, you should already have new plugs. (It is often overlooked, but when the coil goes bad, the plug is fouled by fuel and the bad coil packs' inability to properly fire. *Do not skip on the new plugs.*

6. Apply dielectric grease to the outside of the plug and to the top contact point of the plug to ensure the connection is made. The grease also waterproofs, prevents oxidation from interfering with proper firing, and will prevent the rubber from fusing to your plugs in the future.

7. Put your new plugs in with a ⅝" plug socket. It is a necessary socket and prevents you from dropping the plug in the head. Now, apply a very small dab of anti-sieze grease onto the plug threads and spread it from the first thread to the last in an effort to prevent grease from entering the motor. (Always spin your plugs to the left to find the first thread in the head. Once you feel the plug drop, that is where you will want to begin turning to the right, and tighten it lightly until you know it was seated properly. *Do not strip the threads in the head!*

8. Finally, mount your coil packs and replace the fuel rails. ***Be careful with these fuel rails, the injectors have a small o-ring that helps to seal them in the motor. Do not pinch, remove, or damage them!*** that will become hazardous near a faulty coil pack!**

You will need:

1. Anti-Size grease

2. Dielectric grease

3. ⅜" ratchet

4. ⅜" ratchet extensions (a variety sizes)

5. 7mm socket

6. ⅝" plug socket

7. 5/16" socket

8. 8 x *Platinum* Spark Plugs (The correct plug is PLATINUM. (Motorcraft or Bosch is the best I've used.)

9. 8 x Coil packs (The Accel brand is really good.)

10. Time and patience is mandatory.

Now your Eddie is ready and you'll feel like you're driving a brand new 5.4L Triton! If you've put this work off for a while, you'll instantly love your Expedition all over again. This repair also covers the 4.6L too... so don't feel left out.

how to remove the door panel of a 1995 s10

Yes,,,The chip is actually a resistor that needs to be "read" by the engine computer, it is part of the anti theft system.

Lots of damage depending on how long you can it with out oil.

The list is to long of things that could go wrong.

Remove the dash panel.....you don't have to tatally remove it...just get it loose enough to get to the back of the clock....use a 6mm socket to remove the lightbulb on the back...replacement bulb is F80F-138765-AA from any Ford dealer. I just paid $8 for 1 with a slight discount. (Aug 09)

On a Ford Expedition :

Bank 1 is the passenger side of the V8 engines

On a 2003 Ford Thunderbird :

The thread on cap on your engine coolant reservoir is the pressure cap /

radiator cap

The engine coolant reservoir is in the engine compartment , on the drivers

side of the engine compartment , near the firewall .

You can see the cap on the reservoir through a hole in the " trim "

I just finished replacing my pump! There is a valve on the fuel rail that you can place a gauge on. The pressure should be in the 35 psi plus range when the pump is on. The pressure should stay hi for awhile after you turn the pump off.

My car was getting harder to start for awhile. An easy method to check for the lack of fuel is to put a little ether in the carb. Does it start then die? If so, fuel problems.

It is a fuel filter (almost never), and injector, the relay or the pump. Injectors normally go bad slowly so you would have had missing and other issues. The relay can be swapped with the starter relay. No crank? Replay replacement time.

The last thing is the pump. If it is not the relay, it is probably the pump. Do not skimp and get the lowest cost pump. Normally low cost is fine, but cheap pumps seem to fail withing a year or two for me.

As of 2010 the highest atomic number that did exist was 118 (ununoctium) ununnenium is still not possible.

Problem - Tailgate difficult/impossible to latch. Tools needed: T-30 & T40 Torx drivers

Application: Ford Rangers, and other vehicles with similar tailgate latches

In my 99 Ranger, only one of the tailgate latches/spring bolts would catch. After a while neither would. You had to really slam the tailgate to get either to latch. I thought that a little lube job would help but it did not. I tried to adjust the strike plates but this also did not help.

I could see that the latch bolts would bind and not extend out all the way to catch the striker plates. The metal bolt slides within two square delrin/nylon guide bushings with a spring between them. The outer bushing was coming out of place, causing the bolt to hang up and not extend. This was very difficult to see, and wouldn't happen when the bolt was removed from the tailgate.

A simple test to see if this is the problem can be performed without disassembling the latches at all: With the tailgate cover plate off and the tailgate down. look to see if the latching bolts are all the way out - touching the stop plates. If not, push downward on the portion of the sliding latch bolt where the long rod from the handle hooks onto it. if the bolt snaps out all the way, then you have the same problem I am describing.

Simple fix. I bent the long operating rods so pressure is applied to the inner end of the bolt the same way finger pressure worked in the test above. This involves removing each latch bolt with its long operating rod, and bending the rod downward, at a point about 6" from the hooked end (hook opening downward). When reassembled the rod pushes against the top surface of the tailgate and downward on the latch bolt. This keeps the latch bolt and bushings aligned.

I took only one latch bolt out at a time. That way one could act as a model for the other. The threaded portions of the long operating rods from the handle mechanism must be snapped out of their plastic fittings. There is a small cover that snaps upward and exposes a threaded plastic trough each rod sits in. Pull the rod upward to free it. Note that when you replace the rod there should be a small amount of slack in the rod/latch system.

When removing each latch, you will need to unhook the tailgate support cable on the side you are working on. One of the two bolts holding the latch acts as a pivot for the support cable. There is a little metal stop that controls the cable's position. Be sure to guide the cable back the way it was to avoid bending this metal stop. (match the other side that you haven't taken apart yet)

Once I reassembled both sides, and verified that the bent rods provide downward pressure on the latch bolts, I put the cover back on. The tailgate now latches easily, every time, on both sides.

**********************************************************************

Mine was the same symptom, different solution. I simply removed the cover and found the operating X-Shaped mechanism had significant rust built up. I took a screwdriver, gave it about for or 5 good solid hits to separate the 2 pieces and coated it liberally with PB Blaster.

Works like a champ now, easy 5 minute fix.

Are you asking why is your coolant disappearing? If so, it can be a number of things. A blown head gasket, leaking water pump, radiator, heater core, hose, to name a few. If you can see no apparent leak after driving the vehicle then suspect a blown head gasket. As this can do serious damage to your engine, I suggest you have this fixed ASAP.

Get the drive shaft out of WHAT? Front wheel drive vehicles are considerably more difficult to remove than most rear wheel drives

unbolt it

You really need a manual for this one. The procedure differs for two wheel vs 4whl drive. Go to www.Team3s site there is a wealth of knowledge there. Bob Forest ang Eric Gross provide almost all of the info and you can get a comprehensive manual on CD there. you will need to take the whole assembly apart and then use a puller assuming you are wanting to replace the bearing. The hub may be able to be removed from the knuckle without removing everything else if you are good as it is pressed on. If you are trying to replacce a broken Stud you can do that without removing the hub but you need to do a little grinding on the knuckle to get the necessary clearance. In either case I suggest going to Team3s and joining the discussion forum where you can post this question and interact through emails with the members. Hope this helps Ray

After an oil change, or when "CHANGE OIL" appears on the Trip Monitor, with the ignition on and engine off, press the "ENG MET" button (located on trip monitor) once. Press the "ENG MET" button again within 5 seconds. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the "RANGE" or "GAUGES" button (1990-1994). The light will flash. When it stops flashing and goes out, the system is reset.

the oil pump is in the oilpan but in order to change it you will have to to the timing as well

I just changed the fuel pump relay on my 1992 Chevy Caprice. I found it on the driver's side fender well bracket. There were two relays mounted on the bracket, the one closest to the engine was the fuel pump relay. It was square, made by Bosch. Also I found out that you can go to your local Chevy service department. They will show you on a computer screen where to find parts like this.

There are two(2) oxygen sensors on a GT-S. One sensor pre-cat and on post-cat

easiest way is to send it to a mechanic shop

No ( according to the 1999 Ford Expedition Owner Guide your vehicle is

designed to run on " regular " unleaded gasoline , 87 octane )

Check out www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces ) On the left side of your computer screen CLICK ON OWNER GUIDES Select your year ( 2000 ) Select your Ford model ( Expedition ) Select OWNER GUIDE 1st Printing CLICK On VIEW CONTENT On the left side of your computer screen CLICK ON ROADSIDE EMERGENCIES Scroll down to page 163 - 169