Ford Explorer XLS

The PVC valve is located on the back side of the drivers side valve cover . It has a black hose approximately 5" in length and 1" in diameter attached to it. The other end of the hose attaches to the intake manifold. Both ends of the hose are attached by pushing over the fittings, no clamps.

( code 34 ) - driver side air bag circuit low resistance or shorted

The 2002 Ford Explorer AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS take Motorcraft MERCON " V "

automatic transmission fluid

***note : starting with the 2002 model year of the Ford Explorer 4 door , there is NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID DIPSTICK***

It is to start the vehicle if the "main" battery is dead, in other words, there are additional batteries that power the lights, etc. in the motorhome, and a battery that is reserved for the engine. If this "engine" battery dies, the motorhome can still be started - hooray - by pushing this button which uses the other batteries to start the engine. We experienced this first hand on a cross country trip. Another piece of information that we didn't know - the generator will not run if there is less than 1/4 tank of gas, so always gas up before you are that low - we learned the hard way when we got a flat tire in Oklahoma City in July on a 100+ degree day and could not run the A/C through the generator while we were waiting for road service. Good luck! We have a 1993 30 foot Rockwood.

Computer term for Extended Graphics Array(EGA)

I have a 1995 contour with the same exact problem. The autoshop said it was some type of temperature sensor. It cost me $58.00. They said there was only two sensors that it would affect. They changed them both. I also changed the water pump and thermostat. It still appears to be warm, but it's nothing compard to what it used to be. I also had the same problem, and replaced my engine twice cause the mechanics didn't find the right problem...the water pump was to blame on my 2nd engine, and when it overheated, it warped the very thin and weak head cover, so if you are still running warm, you might want to check your gaskets, and your water pump. The more you overheat, the higher your risk of warping your head, and they cannot be shaved, they have to be replaced. Your cylinders may also become scored, so check your spark plugs for anitfreeze. Contours do tend to run warm, just beaware of your temperatures, a new engine cost over $3000 CDN plus labour.

remove and screws around the head unit (CD player) than just pop out the plastic modling around it then unplug the plug N play device and an RCA and REM cords...let me know is you need directions for removal of a complete system

It seems as if there could be a problem with your motor. The metal in the motor may be swelling due to the heat and causing the window to stick.

The same light is used to determine if the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder is sufficient. And also if the parking brake is fully released

The gas tank on the 2012 Ford Explorer holds 18.6 gal..

There are several factors that cause brake squeal. The primary reason is usually the brake pads themselves. Many of the carbon metallic brake pads are the worst as far as squealing. This is due to the composition of the pad material itself. The OEM pads are usually relatively quiet in comparison. Thus, the solution may be as simple as changing to a different brand of brake pad. Excessive brake pad wear, warped rotors, misaligned calipers, loose calipers, loose wheel bearings, incorrectly sized pads, glazed pads or rotors and sticky pistons may also cause your brakes to sing high alto in the anvil chorus. If your brake pads and braking system are in good condition and you experience squeal just as you are almost stopped, this is usually the brake pad vibrating against the rotor/caliper, causing the rotor to ring like a bell. If you experience noises at other times, check to make sure your brake pads are in good condition and show equal wear. Sometimes a piston will hang up and cause excessive wear and failure of one pad. Check all of your pads to make sure that one is not down to the metal backing plate. The backing plate does not have quite the coefficient of friction as do the brake pads and will usually dig nasty grooves into your rotor for good measure. If you experience clunking noises, a vibrating pedal, or a screeching sound, you should have your entire brake system checked by a qualified mechanic. If you wait too long, the next sound you hear may be "crash". One option to help reduce the brake pad symphony is to install brake pad vibration damper pads. The vibration dampers that several suppliers sell are a self-stick fiber material that adheres to the back of the brake pad backing plate. Some models are manufactured with a mushroom shaped button spring in the center. The button spring fits tightly into the piston and the fiber disk adheres to the backing plate of the pad. The theory is that the fiber disk will help cushion (i.e., soften) the vibration of the brake pad. The second part of the theory is the mushroom button will help pull the pad away from the rotor when the piston retracts after the brake is released. This resulting extra clearance will reduce/eliminate squeal. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. A second option is to coat the back of the brake pads with a quality anti-squeal compound. I have found that a combination of the vibration dampers and a coating of one of the brake anti-squeal compounds usually reduces low speed squeal to a tolerable level. A third solution is to coat the area of the pad backing plate that contacts the caliper piston with a THIN coating of high temperature anti-seize. You do not have to coat the entire backing plate, only the area that is in contact with the piston. The key words are THIN and HIGH temperature. You do not want anti-seize to run onto the front of the pads or the rotor. This is somewhat like waxing your brake pads.

Im not sure about this.. Atm my fone is not charging either! Im getting very worried!

The 4.0 L SOHC engine has 3 timing CHAINS

The computer has sensed a problem in the supplemental restraint system.

Starter motor problems, charging system problems, wiring and connection problems between battery, alternator and starter. To many possiblities to list.

If the battery is still charged and you need to jump the car to get it to start you

have a bad starter. Now you say how can that be? it starts when its jumped?

Correct the starter is drawing too much power"amps" and having a second

battery "the jump" appx doubles the amount of amps to the starter allowing

it to start. Replace the starter and problem will go away.

Besides it wont take too long before a jump wont allow it to start.

The gas tank on the 2013 Ford Explorer holds 18.6 gal..

The O/D off light flashing indicates that the powertrain control module has detected a malfunction - have the Explorer scanned for trouble codes in order to diagnose and repair the problem

The TFT (Transmission Fluid Temp) sensor is located in the valve body of the trans. It is easily serviced by draining the fluid, drop the pan and filter and locate the sensor and replace it. Its approx towards the front of the valve body and is relatively small so look hard and you will find it. Just compare to the new one you have to replace it with. Just be careful you can break the old one by turning it too much I believe it's only a 1/4 turn to remove. Don't forget to reconnect the connector. It is a common sensor to go out. Re install pan and refill trans with approx 8-9 qt's SP transmission fluid. Hope this helps. Good luck.

wrong bulbs or bad earth

Correct STOCK size is 5" x 7" for front and rear speakers. You have to cut the doors metal to make 6x9 speakers fit. REFERENCE : http://www.modifiedlife.com/1999-ford-explorer-car-radio-stereo-wiring-diagram/

There is a problem with the SRS. Take it to a professional for repair. Working on the SRS is not a DIY job. Serious injury can occur when dealing with this system.

Could indicate problem with transmission 1st try disconnecting battery and tying + and - battery cables together for about 10 mins. to see if this resets and may solve problem--if light continues to blink have vehicle scanned to see if any codes exist

I have a 97 Tahoe and the brake lights were not working and the problem was in the emergency flasher switch. I just jiggled it and the brake lights worked so am thinking you might have the same problem. It could also be the brake pedal switch located right on the pedal arm.