Ford Explorer XLS

Its simple, you simply wedge the glass and locate the vertical lock linkage connecting the vertical lock button (most fords) with the door latching mechanism.

If you attempt to grab the lock pawl you will break it clean off as it is fragile/brittle delrin plastic and is not a free play pawl on door locks on ford trucks since 57 or so.

Some fords have a horizontal lock linkage inside the door with either a horizontal to vertical bellcrank mechanism or a direct pull pivoted lever arm, where the horizontal linkage terminates and connects to the arm witch pivots along the Y axis, the door lever pulls twords the Z axis and the linkage slides rearward across the y axis.

Other fords have a coaxial cable linkage for the door mechanism similar to that of a throttle cable and cannot be compromised .

In short if you locate the vertical lock linkage or the horizontal handle linkage, or the bell crank (if applicable) then you might be able to get a grip on it with an inverted "Z" tool, or a slidelock tool bent approximately 15 degrees about 10 inches from the working end, slide the correct linkage the correct direction and you will only have bent the spine of the window's exterrior silstrip.

Pull 2 or more lock rods off and you may not be able to open the door with or without a key from the inside or outside.

Sorry I cant be of more help, I don't really know much about cars and locks.

On a 1998 Ford Explorer :

In the power distribution box ( which is " live " ) located in the engine compartment on the drivers side :

( Mini fuse # 8 ) is a 15 amp fuse for the rear wiper motor

Also , in the power distribution box :

( relay # 8 ) is the rear wiper down relay and ( relay # 10 is the rear wiper up relay )

You can view the 1998 Ford Explorer owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the diagram for the power distribution box is on page 142 )

Helpfull

if you look under the hood the wiper motor is fastened to the fire wall you will know it is the motor when you follow the wiper pivoting arm which is attached to the wiper motor after installing new motor wiper arms will need to be adjusted they will have to come off anyway prior to removing motor they are connected with one nut on a spline shaft . might sound difficult but really isn't

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a set of ford radio removal keys should be all that is needed. Eddie's TipsThey sell "OEM Stereo Removal Tools" at any Wal-Mart, Advance Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, Bumper To Bumper Auto Parts. They are horseshoe looking tools, you stick them both in firmly, until you feel it catch, sometimes it makes a clicking noise. Pull the radio out evenly and firm. Sometimes the tools pull out with nothing, or one may come out, or sometimes the radio comes out crooked and wont move. Just keep playing it with, it's sure to come out. I have also used SOD (Grass) steaks to remove them, pretty much anything you can find, that is hard, and can equally displace the presure will work great!

This is actually a really common problem according to my dad who has been a body man for over 40 years. According to him it may be a loose or improperly sized bolt that holds the wiper motor down. I haven't had him try to fix mine yet because it doesn't bother me that much but he thinks that this bolt problem puts the rear wiper in a bind and occasionally won't let the wiper move. I may have him take mine apart and get a better answer I only worry about messing up the rear door interior panel which is very expensive to replace according to my father. I don't know if this helps but hope so. Also don't take it to a ford dealer because they will turn it on once and if it works they will say "It's working perfectly" and be done with it. To fix the rear wiper: 1) Start the vehicle, 2) Turn the rear wipers on high, 3) go to the back of the truck and pull the wiper out of the stand, 4) push the wiper down until it begins to move (this may take a few times until it senses). I have to do this about every 4-5 months, depending on the road conditions I travel. Seems there is a sensor that gets off from the wiper motor. This should fix your problem

I believe it is "Left Radiator Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly".

With the tire(s) you want to check off of the ground place your hands on top and the bottome of the tire and push with one hand and pull with the other at the same time if it moves first check to see the ball joints arent moving if they arent than you have a bearing that needs to be replaced

By having the anti-lock brake system fixed. Resetting the light will do no good unless the system is repaired. It will just come back on. I suggest you have this repaired by a qualified tech. You still have standard braking even though the ABS is non-functional.

Oh this is a fun question. There isn't one. This is an idea hijacked from German engineering. There is no transmission dipstick. Makes you wonder if the dipstick was the one who designed this, doesn't it? In order to service the trans fluid level, you have to raise the vehicle, and the vehicle has to be level. Run the engine to full operating temperature In the middle of the pan, there is a plug that looks like a drain plug that has a small T30 torx screw in the middle. That is a "standpipe" assembly. You have to remove the small screw in the middle of the bigger plug. If fluid runs out, it is already full enough. If it doesn't, you could be low. You have to keep shooting fluid up into the hole and check. When fluid starts running back out of the hole, it is full.

You'll have to get a tuner to disable it through the computer. If your talking with a remote start, you can bypass it with a "passlock" which can be found at car alarm shops

THE OIL DIPSTICK IS BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE RADIATOR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR. BUT I THINK YOUR LOOKING FOR THE TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,THAT'S UNDER THE HOSE THAT IS ATTACHED TO THE AIR FILTER HOUSING AND A LITTLE TRICKY TO GET AT. HOPE THIS HELPS PAUL G

19.3 Gallons

never mind the switch check for burnt connectors on bulbs and oxidization green in colour, if you have a gm vehicle go to the wreckers and get a light assembly for your tailights if it is the wrong side on the guts end it doesnt matter since there is a punch out for it. install worked for me 20dollars. i was thinking it was the pedal brake switch it is not. God Bless John

All cars since the early 1950s have OverHead Valve engines. Previous designs were called "Flat Head" or "Side Valve" like most lawnmowers still have. An OverHead Cam engine has overhead valves (also known as "valve-in-head") that are operated by a camshaft over the valves in the cylinder head. The valve cover is taller on an OHC engine as it has to cover the camshaft while the shorter OHV valve cover only has to cover the rocker arms. An OHC engine has a chain or belt sprocket on the front of the cylinder head covered completely in the case of a chain (it's oiled from the inside of the engine) and covered by a safety guard in the case of a toothed belt driven camshaft (it's not lubricated at all). You may be able to see the sprocket or belt if it's a belt driven camshaft.

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Look at your VIN # - if the 8th "character" is an X it's an OHV if the 8th "character"

is an E it's the SOHC engine. (Helpfull)

Wrong!! Ford stopped using OHV engines in 00 and 01. I have a 2000 explorer 4.0 SOHC vin x, not E. Since ford stopped making OHV engines in 00 and 01. Like stated before, look at your VIN, dont rely on this dude

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I have the VIN " X " engine and it is the 160 horsepower overhead valve /

pushrod design 4.0 liter , V6 engine , I'm sorry but you don't have the 4.0 liter

SOHC , VIN " E " engine ( has the original engine from the factory been changed )

If you had an owner's manual you would find your answer there. Put enough fluid in to fill it up but not overfill. Check the fluid level according to the instructions in your owner's manual. Slowly add fluid until it is full. http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/manual.html

The vapor pressure sensor is attached to the charcoal canister via 2 screw and a tube. there is also an electrical plug that goes to the computer.

other possible causes would be

The canister itself- either physical damage or fuel damage(causes by topping off your tank)

the air filter in the evap system

physical damage to the tubing or poor connections ( an evap smoke test will answer those questions)

a wiring problem ( an open or a short)

or the computer itself is bad.

Diagnosing these problems is difficult for the "at home mechanic" to do. this is a tricky spot that may be left to the pro's.

I am not a mechainic for a living but i worked on my truck for a P0450 Nissan code at it was very difficult isolating equipment to diagnose the situation.

The 2003 Ford Explorer , 4.0 liter V6 engine uses ( 5W-30 )

With engine oil filter change it takes :

( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

On a 1995 Ford Explorer :

The fuse for the blower motor is a red color , 50 amp MAXI FUSE , that is

in the engine compartment in the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " )

The fuse is in the row nearest the drivers side of the vehicle and in the 3rd

space from the firewall end of the P D BOX

If you see a break in the metal " wire " that runs from one side to the other

in the semi clear plastic of the fuse , then the fuse has " blown " and is no good

The only way to stop the light from flashing it to get it fixed. The dianostic system is telling you there is a problem with the air bag, which means it won't activate properly or at all.

There is a "clockspring" in the steering column that is probably broken. When the clockspring no longer makes contact, the airbag light comes on. The "clockspring" takes the place of the old slip rings and spring loaded contacts used in older cars and is used to transfer circuits from the steering wheel to the stationary column making the airbag, horn and speed/cruise control operational. To fix involves removing the airbag. Take it to the dealer.

bad fuel pump it could also mean that the fule ammount sencor is out.good luck.

You can view the Owner Guide online ( which includes the fuse panel diagram ) at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( the fuses and relays section of the 1999 Ford Explorer Owner Guide starts on page 179 )

It could be fuel pump, filter or something else. You need to track down the problem to know for certain. Since fuel pumps should be changed regularly, do that first. It's a good preventative maintenance task, so go ahead. Then get a fuel gauge and see what the fuel pressure is at the fuel test port under the hood. Compare that to the manufacturers recommended pressure. You may need to get that number from the manufacturer or from a service manual. On way to determine if it's a fuel problem, spray a little starting fluid into the intake while someone is trying to start the engine. If you get a few "pops", it's probably a fuel delivery problem, if not, it could be ignition or compression. Almost all automotive problems can be repaired in your own garage if you have a few tools and a place to get some specific information about your vehicle. Figuring out which part is faulty is the most difficult part of any automotive repair, that's why there are so many mechanics who just keep guessing and replacing parts until the engine runs again... not a very effective way to repair a problem.

when the glow plug light is flashing during driving it is not the plugs that need replaced it normally means you have a bulb blown most commonly one of your sidelights and once replaced your glow plug light will stop flashing

Low tire pressure

Frozen brake caliper

Bad alignment

Worn front end parts (tie rod ends Pitman arm)

Bent axle