Ford Explorer XLS

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No fuse but large 80 AMp in plastic holder on lefthandside of bulkhead underneath the rainsplash next to wiper motor. Wiring loom comes out of car bulkhead above accelerator pedal and part goes through this plastic box 7"x1.5" x2" Fuse is inside. But I think everything would stop if this was blown not sure though, more likely to be small broken wire to starter solenoid, might be the plug that connects this wire from the solenoid to the wiring loom. goes along the back of the engine to the RHS of the engine and is one of two plugs clipped to the engine block above the gearbox May have come undone/ poor connection?

Either the brake fluid level is LOW in the brake master cylinder located in your

engine compartment , or the parking brake / emergency brake is on

Kettles are very simple. Kettles whistle when the air inside of them is moving incredibly fast and is pushed through small openings in the kettle.

You will find a free wiring diagram at: www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine#Diagrams Good Luck!

Remove the carter pin in the castle nut, loosen the castle nut, hit the lower control arm/upper control arm where the ball joint intersects sharply with a ball peen or small sledge hammer that has either a "soft" face or "shot" in the face of the hammer. This type hammer reduces the chances of small pieces of steel becoming airborne projectiles. "WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES"! Pieces of steel breaking away can act like a bullet.

This is typically an issue with a switch on one of the doors. Normally, it's a simple pin switch (much like you find on most refrigerators, that you can press to turn off the light). If the interior lights are not coming on when the "Door Ajar" indicator is illuminated, then I'd do a little deeper investigation. There is also a switch located inside the latch assembly on EACH door. There should be a wire connected to this switch. If it is disconnected it would cause the symptoms you are describing. The only way to check, though, is to pull the door panel off and visually inspect the connection. If any of the doors have been worked on lately check them first.

It is directly below the tank that holds the washer fliud on your left side looking down. Regards, Jim

Front link nuts are listed at 15-21 lbs on 2wd, and 16-21 on 4wd. 63 to 84 on the rear, unless your not putting a Ford bar back on, like say your switching to a Hellwig, then they have their own specs. If you haven't purched one yet, the Haynes manual lists all specs on this and almost everything else, I think I paid 17.00 for it, and it's worth it.

right hand radiator primary crash sensor not mounted to vehicle properly

Usually, you can't replace the cover. You have to buy new ball joints, which are reasonably priced (buy them from an auto parts supplier, not a dealer). You should replace them in pairs, since if one is worn out, the other will be soon. Also, you don't want the suspension behaving differently on different sides.

In addition, you need a special tool, sometimes called a "pickle fork," to remove the ball joint, which is also reasonably priced and a lot of fun, since you get to pound on it with a hammer.

Now many miles Per gallón does a Ford Explorer gets

How to change upper and lower ball joints on a 1997 ford explorer all wheel drive?

"Whichever caliper is frozen, I take it you mean seized, then the steering will pull in the opposite direction, so if the drivers side front caliper is seized, the steering will pull to the left, that is the passenger side front."

The answer above is not necessarelly true. I've seen many seized calipers which don't pull the car to one side or the other. The EASIEST WAY to tell if your caliper is seized is by jacking up the car , put it in neutral andwhen the wheel is on the air and start turning it by hand. If the wheel turns easily then the caliper is probabbly not seized, if it's hard tu turn then the calipers are most likely seized.

I suppose then to prove the case above using as simple a method as possible is to select a road without traffic flow, then using a brake hose clamp, clamp off one of the front hoses to prevent hydraulic pressure reaching the caliper, by this method one will know the brake cannot work, then drive the car at a reaonable speed in a straight line, holding the steering wheel with both hands and then firmly apply the brake pedal.

The steering wheel will turn on the opposite direction, try it and then we can conclude the issue.

my 1993 Chevy p/u 4.3engine driver side caliper is seized i removed the tire and found that the brake pads were worn down to almost the riviets. Need to know how toremove and repair calpier?

In the fuse panel on the driver's end of the dash (visible with driver's door open) in location # 17 is a 20 amp fuse for the cigar lighter/ OBD II.

The spark plug firing order for the Ford 4.0 L OHV and the Ford 4.0 L SOHC engines is the same ( 1-4-2-5-3-6 )

Check the fuel pressure.

clock spring has broken...check if horn is working another diagnose

Check your fuel filter before spending money on other troubleshooting procedures.

Had the same problem, it would idle fine but about 4000 rpm or heavy exceleration it would start to jerk. so i replaced my cam sensor.

Fuel constriction, ignition parts corroded, wet spark plugs. I had this problem caused by a corroded connection on the high-voltage side of the ignition coil. Carburetors could have a failing acceleration pump.

on my 1993 GXE the winsheild washer fluid reservoir is under the hood near the front of engine by antfreeze reservoir

the fill tube is on the passenger side near the coolant reservoir. access to the "tub" itself and the washer motor/pump is from the passenger side front wheel well.

IF GAS I NOT SKY HIGH

On the Ford Explorer , on the end of the automatic transmission gear selector lever ( park , reverse etc ) there is a push button that allows you to turn off the OVERDRIVE feature if you wish

If it is out of specification the rear, yes. If it is in specification, no. Makes sense, doesn't it!

Some cars have adjustable alignment angles in the rear, and do indeed call for a four-wheel alignment. On many cars, there are no rear adjustments, but the front wheels should be aligned with respect to the rear, what is properly called a thrust-angle alignment. Unfortunately, many shops are not careful with their terminology and use the term "four-wheel alignment" when they really mean "thrust-angle alignment." Even so, they usually correctly distinguish between cars that have alignable rear ends and those that don't, and price the job accordingly.

As to whether your car has an alignable rear end, you'll need to refer to a shop manual to find out.